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Discussion in 'Workshop Tips and Secrets / Tools' started by cdlwingnut, Sep 17, 2017.
Just breaking edges and sanding gussets flush and on wing ribs today. But, progress is progress.
Today was a busy day, with taxes due tomorrow and being a solo parent for the weekend.
But, I did loosely fit the final engine control cable, and did some sanding on the cabin top before the second round of T-storms hit and drove me and most of an RV-10 back inside the garage.
Today we completely cleaned the hanger and re-arranged a number of things to make way for the P36 which is getting bigger as we add more and more wing.
Really slogging through my electrical diagrams. Basic DC power distribution is "done" for the moment; now I'm doing the engine control. I think I've figured out all the wiring for the SDS system but it'll have to be confirmed when I get the hardware. The important part for now is the power connections.
Current status of the drafts attached.
The power drawing may look familiar; it's a Nuckolls Z14 with the following mods:
- Crossfeed and start are now separate switches
- Instead of separate battery buses, the batteries feed a switched engine bus through diodes (essential bus diodes from B&C)
- Nothing other than power distribution and engine start are on the diagram, everything else goes by system on other pages
Had to re-do my rib due to inconsistency in copied drawing; happy to have it noticed quickly
Made a foam visualization mock-up of the small fuselage and wing root for an all-metal version of the Fauvel/Debreyer Pelican minimalist flying wing. The foam mock-up allowed me to get a good spatial sense of where the wing and fuselage needed to be with respect to each other, as well as verifying that the pilot would have adequate visibility down over the leading edge of the wing. If I was conversant with Sketchup, or SolidWorks, I might have done this in the computer. But this washed up old model airplane builder did it with cheap sheet foam from Home Creep-O and masking tape
I have not been happy with the fit of the kit’s left side pilot seat back rail in the Sportsman. (The seats are fixed, the seat back slides forward and back for different size pilots.) The kit part had to be forced into alignment to get the AN3 bolts in place. The ideal fix would have been to replace the 4130 tabs with new ones, but that would necessitate post-welding powder coating to look right.
Since there was adequate hole edge clearance, I made a drill guide out of a scrap piece of stainless steel angle, and drilled out the mounting holes to accept AN4 bolts, shifting the center of each of four holes by 1/32”. Much easier to align now.
working on details design of rear spar, decided needed to finish the rear spar fitting. Major problem...the lever arm from the tip skid to the rear fitting is, aprox 12.....there is a spec. of 150 lb on the tip skid in case you drag a wing..... 1800 lb on the rear fitting...without figure of the P as shown on the diagram. I guess I have to figure P but that should help.
Things haven't been as productive as we'd hope the past couple weekends, but we had a great weekend in the shop this past weekend! Very productive! We have officially completed the sanding of the wing to profile! It took a lot of effort to get it as perfect as we could. Then we fitted the bottom skins to trace the outline so we can mask for varnish and glue, as well as set locations for wing inspection panels. We also got a start on our wing tips. Next will be to finish the wingtip blocking then bond in the top skins! Really hoping to have the top skins in by the weekend!
Started my second rib today, as the first is getting painted...
I worked on the glamorous portion of airplane construction.
I installed fittings on my SDS fuel pump module so I can start installing it, and started the process of fixing my air compressor (apparently the head gasket blew out). I’ll order parts (gasket material and compressor oil) and work on mounting the pump module while I wait for my finishing kit to arrive this week.
I was able to get the lower skins to trailing edge strips, match sanded to the wing ribs. I found a few low spots so I had to add a couple filler blocks. So once that's cured up, I can block sand them to profile, then move onto installing the top skins for good! I'm getting excited, but also every time I think I'm ready to install the top skins, always seem to be another 2 steps left to go before I can do so...hahaha Gotta make sure that I get it right the first time. ALSO my SDS dual electronic ignition system from active member here Ross. I'm a bit away from running my engine but when I do I will post a report on it, but at first glance I'm impressed with the quality and completeness of the kit.
Tantrum1, what airfoil is used on your airplane?
To be honest I have no idea, I’ve never really asked, and have never really been concerned with it lol. Plans say “build this” so I build it...lol but in you asking I will find out and let you know!
PS sent a text to the engineer let you know what he says.
Covering wings in Terrell, Texas.
The first time that I was on my back under an instrument panel trying to install something within the jungle of wires and controls, I was a teenager. Didn’t like it then. Still don’t. But the ADS-B is ready for testing, as is the backup battery system for the EFIS.
The muscle cramps are much more memorable as you get older.
Yes, and I have quite a few years on you. Several times just the angle of my arm and hand led to a cramp before I could clip the Ty-Rap tails.
If you have the Starduster Too, there was a mod made to the main gear mounting to move it back by 8” because the tail wheel was too heavy as originally designed, making it a little squirrely on landing.
If yours is light on the tailwheel, it probably means that you have the gear mod already done and it might be fine once everything is on. Still, it’s prudent to check with the Starduster experts to make sure.
Did you get an answer from the expert?
Separate names with a comma.