Penetrating oil

Discussion in 'Workshop Tips and Secrets / Tools' started by PTAirco, Mar 31, 2008.

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  1. Dec 10, 2009 #21

    harrisonaero

    harrisonaero

    harrisonaero

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    I'm a big fan of PB Blaster. Let it soak for a minute or two, tap on it, let it soak again... and if it's going to come loose it will.

    Though the homebuilt, err, homebrew mix sounds good too...
     
  2. Dec 10, 2009 #22

    vortilon

    vortilon

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  3. Dec 10, 2009 #23

    wsimpso1

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    I can attest to Liquid Wrench being slow but effective. Will have to try our PB.

    Kroil is on my shelf, but it is too pricey to use on rusted bolts when I have Liquid Wrench. I use it for maintaining rifle bores (removes powder ash, jacket fouling, and moly residues better than anything) and freeing screws when gunsmithing. Nothing but the best there...

    Billski
     
  4. Dec 11, 2009 #24

    plncraze

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    When I worked with veteran auto mechanics they used PB Blaster.
     
  5. Dec 11, 2009 #25

    Dan Thomas

    Dan Thomas

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    We use Mouse Milk. Going to try the acetone/ATF mix sometime, though it'll likely be what we have in the shop: acetone and MIL5606 hydraulic fluid.

    Dan
     
  6. Dec 19, 2009 #26

    Lucrum

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    Penetrating oil and heat look like the most promising method here?

    These are flat screw heads that are partially buggered up from intial attempts and removing them.
     

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  7. Dec 19, 2009 #27

    Dieselav8tor

    Dieselav8tor

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    Try a LEFT hand drill bit, quite often the screws will loosen from the vibration and then just back right out.:)
     
  8. Dec 19, 2009 #28

    Hot Wings

    Hot Wings

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    Left hand drill bits would be my first choice here, after a good soak.
     
  9. Dec 19, 2009 #29

    Dana

    Dana

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    Some of the toolmakers I work with have these, kind of an EZ out and a LH drill all in one:

    [​IMG]

    The only time I borrowed one, though, the LH drill turned it out before the extractor part even touched the bolt.

    -Dana

    "Naked" means you ain't got no clothes on; "nekkid" means you ain't got no clothes on - and are up to somethin'.
     
  10. Dec 25, 2009 #30

    Joe Kidd

    Joe Kidd

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    Midniteoyl...any ATF will work in the above mentioned mixture, I use whatever's the least expensive. Bit of warning though, it will remove paint or hot bluing so be careful. A baked on enamal finish seems to stay in place though.

    Joe
     
  11. Dec 25, 2009 #31

    PTAirco

    PTAirco

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    Wish I had tried the acetone/ATF method before trying to take apart three old Ranger engines - I used just about everything else ever dreamed up. I have to say, in the end it all came apart without breaking anything, so gentle persuasion, and heat will often get it done. And for the front thrust bearing nut - a custom made 4ft wrench!
     
  12. Dec 26, 2009 #32

    jumpinjan

    jumpinjan

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    I would like to see a picture of that thrust bearing wrench (you could just email it). I'll need to make one in a few months to work on my Rangers too.
    Jan
     
  13. Dec 26, 2009 #33

    vortilon

    vortilon

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    Jan I have a thrust bearing wrench for a continental 220 (W670) I bet it's close. I believe I have the spline wrench for the prop shaft also I am sure that is the same. You are welcome to use it anytime.
     

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