automotive paints, anyone?

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rv7charlie

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Not interested in clearcoat processes.
Anyone have experience with the less expensive single stage automotive paints; either multi-part urethanes, or the older acrylic enamel tech?
Stuff like Eastwood, Dupli Color, Summit, etc.
I need at least some perspective on appearance compared to the high end automotive urethanes. Summit's single stage literature implies that it can be topcoated, leading one to question the finish quality when used single stage. Talking to them was no help; they hedged & said 'it varies by color'.

I started an earlier thread about vinyl covering (thanks for the great perspectives), and would like to get input on the less expensive paints. Looks like materials costs will be about the same, and for a minimally experienced painter like me (painted a Kolb with latex house paint), I figure that the big flat surfaces would be easier to wrap but the complex curved stuff *might* be easier to paint, and the cowl/wheel pants will probably survive better if painted. Which raises the question of whether any of the less expensive paints would be available from local vendors and could be color matched (to the vinyl).

Thanks for any perspective you can offer.
Charlie
 

ToddK

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As long as this pertains to aluminum, and assuming you have a good aluminum compatible prep/primer system:

I have a buddy who painted his Jeep Cherokee (it lives outside) with the cheapest gallon of single stage auto paint he could find on ebay several years ago. Still looks fine. I think for something that live in a hanger, it should hold up just fine.

I think the prep is the biggest part.
 

Charliesolo

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I have used the Summit single stage urethane paint, one of the stock white colors. I painted my house propane tank, a metal shed, and a fiberglass boat for practice, to get ready to paint my RV-6 and 172.

The paint goes on really well. Easy to spray. The propane tank is in full sun and three years in still looks good.

Having said all that, I went to basecoat / clear coat for my -6. There was going to be a lot of cut and buff needed to bring the single stage paint up to my standards for an airplane. It would have been possible, because of the rivets being flush, but I decided that bc/cc was easier. I haven't painted my 172 yet, but will definitely use bc/cc due to the traditional rivets.

There is a 170 parked outside at my airport painted with single stage * Eastwood * ( I mistakenly typed Summit here when I originally posted ) paint, white with red trim, that has sat outside 5 years since being painted. It still looks good.

I believe that the Summit paints are made by Eastwood and are priced way better if you can live with the stock colors.
 
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Hot Wings

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Been a while since I painted a couple times a week and I haven't kept up with the various paint chemistries…………

I always liked the look/gloss of a good single stage, for solid colors, better than the same in clear-coat. They did tend to need a good polish more often than clear-coat systems. If you are wanting anything other than a simple solid color you need to use a clear-coat system, be a very good painter, or settle for stripes and splotches.
 

rv7charlie

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Thanks, guys. I don't expect show quality, or I wouldn't be considering vinyl or diy paint. ;-) I just don't want to embarrass myself when I exit the plane at flyins.
Whatever process I use, it will be as white as possible, and I'll almost certainly use vinyl for a couple of simple accent stripes on the sides. That's it; very simple design. The info about the 170 & Summit is particularly helpful.

I guess I'm down to whether I can color-match the white vinyl I choose, in the cheap paints. Anyone bought the cheaper stuff from local suppliers who will color match? (Even white is rarely white.)
 

Dan Thomas

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Auto paints on fabric don't work well at all. Even the urethane paints with the flexants in them. Been there, did that, wasted the money and time.

One place where I used to buy paints told me they had 1100 whites.
 

Daleandee

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I put this thread up five years ago about roller painting my aluminum aircraft using Acrylic Urethane Enamel, three part paint used for aluminum boats. (Some of the links are not working correctly). Pics of the finished plane here: "Myunn" Corvair-powered Sonex - KITPLANES


Dunno if this helps ...

Dale
 

Daleandee

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Auto paints on fabric don't work well at all. Even the urethane paints with the flexants in them. Been there, did that, wasted the money and time.

One place where I used to buy paints told me they had 1100 whites.
A friend had a Challenger clip wing that was beautiful after being done in auto paint. Looked great until you got close and seen all the cracks in it. Soon enough big pieces began to flake off ... ugghhh!
 

rv7charlie

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Auto paints on fabric don't work well at all.
Sorry; I fell into 'center of the universe syndrome'; thinking everybody else knew what I know. My application is aluminum (alodined if necessary) and fiberglass.

(Rumor has it that one of the ways Van's Aircraft kept their early prototypes so light was to alodine (unmeasurable weight gain) and just enough dusting of paint to show the color.)
 

Turd Ferguson

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I've sprayed some aluminum parts and fiberglass (cowl, doors, etc) with auto (Valspar) base coat / 2K clear coat, only the clear is catalyzed and it looks great, equal to the Imron it replaced. Seems to be holding up fine. Airlines have been using base coat / clear coat for several yrs now.
 

TFF

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Lifted from the biplane forum from smizo


“3M 30-NF Adhesive to glue fabric to airframe basically following stewarts system instructions with a few other little tricks.

Weave sealed with straight 30-NF rolled on open areas using a 6" foam paint roller. wipe off excess using blue shop towels.

PPG Delfleet Evolution Primer F3970 mixed 3:1 with F3971 Hardener and then 1/2 part F3331 Reducer and 1 part DX814 Flex Agent.

Top coat with Sherwin Williams Acryglo base clear system.”

My plane was done in auto originally twenty years ago and it was cracking and brittle when I cut it off. High build paint has to be sprayed thin or it will be Heavy. Extra coats add up.
 

TFF

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Oh aluminum, If you buy a new Cirrus, Bonanza, and plenty others, it’s car paint. PPG last time I saw a maintenance manual.
 

Pops

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Metal and fabric , two different things.
This is Dupont basecoat, clearcoat ( Metalic Dark Blue) and the wings are Poly Fiber's aerothane silver. Randthane color covers better than Poly-fiber's aerothane.
 

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Pops

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I painted 2- Cessnas 172 with PPG Delton . Hard to spray. Bandwith between orange peel and a run is very narrow. I quit using it.

I also painted all metal 1947 Luscombe with Imron that came out good.

Will not use any auto paint on fabric. Metal only.

Back in the 1970's I painted my all metal Ercoupe with Dupont's auto emanel, looked OK for a couple of years and faded fast.
In 1980 I painted my Falconar F-12 , I used Stits process with aerothane.
 

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Geraldc

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PPG delfleet is used on curtain-sider trucks.The curtain sides seem to stand up to it.
 

Hot Wings

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I guess I'm down to whether I can color-match the white vinyl
White is one of the hardest 'colors' to match.
I'm one of the rare males that has good color vision so I tend to be a bit picker with color match than most and have never had the paint shop scanner match a white the first time.
 

BBerson

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Anyone have experience with the less expensive single stage automotive paints; either multi-part urethanes, or the older acrylic enamel tech?
Single stage has been the norm for most small aircraft because of weight and labor cost. Either Imron urethane for the wet look that lasts about 10 years or the acrylic enamel with urethane hardener is less cost than Imron.
 

bifft

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I used a single stage urethane on my RV, had to go get an empty can from the garage to see what kind, "Limco Supreme Plus". Was recommended by a co-worker who had rebuilt and repainted a couple of cars. Available locally so I could just go buy some when I needed more.

Looks pretty good in the spots where I did a decent job (never spray painted anything before my plane) less well in other spots (blame the painter instead of the paint). Seems to be holding up on the aluminum pretty good, but is flaking off the fiberglass in some areas. Maybe I didn't prep well enough?
 
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