Small shop Mill

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Well-Known Member
Sep 5, 2011
What about a TAIG mill? I have a little TAIG lathe and I love it, it’s really a great tool.
For light duty Small Stuff there fine. An Emco Compact 5 CNC Lathe will do many things. Some even had a (4) Tool ATC. Many Schools used them. They made a CNC Mill also, but light Duty Plastics and Aluminum.



Well-Known Member
Feb 10, 2015
Uncasville, CT
Taig can do the trick or a Seig X2/3, not much experience with either tho.

When it comes to machining, being able to hit +/- .001 provided the operator does their bit should be a given. In the hand work world it doesn't needs get so fine tuned but in the machining world .010 seems like a mile.


Well-Known Member
HBA Supporter
Aug 21, 2016
Don't reject a 3 phase machine for that reason alone. Very easy to run on single phase. A good deal on an old machine is not such a good deal if it has a Brown & Shape #9 taper in the spindle. A BP / clone is popular because of commonality and you can always sell it and recoup your $$ when you're done with it.
But you can get tons of tools for them just by ebaying for milling cutters job lot. IE - i got clarkson collet for threaded shank milling cutters, and ~ 15 kg of cutters for a fraction of price of er 32 collets with holder.
And taper can be sleeved for any other smaller type.


Well-Known Member
Oct 21, 2019
The Morse taper and B&S taper and the ilk will slip more readily than R-8 and Cat
MT + B & S will not "slip more readily" than R-8. If drawbar retained (as would be in a mill) the tapers lock so much better than R-8. In fact a common complaint of those systems is how difficult they are to remove. It's not uncommon to hear of a mill with such a taper (Jarno or B & S) that no one has been able to get the last arbor out of for a few decades.

R8 is a relatively wimpy, relatively fast change system originated with Bridgeport, that has become ubiquitous & hence inexpensive as well. It is a good system for light duty mills like Bridgeports, but neither the best nor most accurate. R8 is so famous for slipping that it is common in industrial setting to remove the key - when the R-8 taper slips in heavy cuts, the key cuts up the tool shank and breaks off locking it in place, and the mess becomes very time consuming to take apart and clean up.

Cat (& the National Tapers it was more or less derived from) includes the taper for locating, and is flank drive as well. No comparison to any of the above.

For a small shop, R8 economy, facility, and the fact that it can be sourced everywhere is a plus. I do think it is the best "starter" system. R8 collets and holders will swallow larger size shanks up into the quill than some other similar size systems (good: keeps the forces closer to the bearings) It could, of course be argued that you can fit tools in R8 holders that shouldn't be driven on that size mill or holder, but there's a lot to be said for versatility and convenience, let the operator make the decisions and size the cuts and feed accordingly.

NT30 is a step up, with import tooling is is also not noticeably more expensive to tool up. NT40 is a heavier duty system, does start to become more costly.

There's not a lot wrong with drawbar retained Jarno, B & S, & MT tapers which are more secure than R8; except that they are inconvenient, and they are not common, hence more expensive new, and fewer options for versatility. As someone else posted, if you are given such a machine, get an ER 40, 30, & maybe a 25 collet chucks; and a good drill chuck, and use it.