Chilton DW1 Build

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Todd C.
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Thought I’d start a build log for my Chilton. Today started at 0630 with a 1.5 hour drive to Aircraft Spruce. Picked up all the wood for the tail plus a little extra spruce for odds and ends.
Got home at 1100 and got started on the 1mm birch rib diaphragms for the tail. Ended up getting the webs for the vert and horiz stab done. This 1mm ply sure is nice to work with..feels like a big rc model.
Tomrrow I steam and bend the rib cap strips and start on the vert and horiz spars.

Thought about posting this in the projects but I don’t like the blocked comments.. plus the classic section could use a little more Chilton.
 

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Todd C.
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Spent most of Saturday getting the shop a little more organized and usable. It's only a single car garage and does double duty at the laundry room, but it's going to work. Still have a lot to do to make the shop more user friendly but that's not going to prevent me from getting started.

After organizing I got started with laying out and cutting spruce for the elevator spar. Then on to scarfing the 1mm ply which will sheet both sides of the spar. Scarfing went surprisingly well using a router jig. Taking a lunch break right now then it will be back out to mix up some T-88. I plan on gluing up the scarf and ply to spruce in one shot.
 

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don january

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I have a friend who is building a Taylor-mono in a space about the size of your's and I have to tip my hat to you both. Like Little Scrapper who is building with a wall Table for his Mini Max. Tighter then Duck Pu$$y and that's water proof, Good job fella's. Hopefully it's not as hot as a half Fu&% Fox in a forest fire inside that little room.:roll:
 

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Todd C.
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I have a friend who is building a Taylor-mono in a space about the size of your's and I have to tip my hat to you both. Like Little Scrapper who is building with a wall Table for his Mini Max. Tighter then Duck Pu$$y and that's water proof, Good job fella's. Hopefully it's not as hot as a half Fu&% Fox in a forest fire inside that little room.:roll:
So far the ocean breeze is keeping us pretty cool.
IMG_0520.jpg

I expect to be cooking in here around August though :ermm:
 

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Todd C.
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Elevator spar is out and looks good. Just need to clean it up and sheet the other side. What's your favorite way of cleaning up oozed epoxy? I've learned to clean it up while it's still wet but it can be hard to access all the drips when things are jigged up. A router sounds nice but it won't get close to the finished profile due to said oozing. 60 grit sand paper works decently well but slow and clogs up the paper...
IMG_0521.jpg

Stab spar was laid out last night and I should be fitting the spruce tonight.
 
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Victor Bravo

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Over the course of hundreds of models and a couple of full size wood aircraft parts & pieces, I have had success with removing oozing glue using business cards, playing cards (cut to strange shapes ahead of time), razor blades, sharpened popsicle sticks, and the trusty old #11 X-acto. Most of us old model builders have several X-acto handles laying around.

So just leave a dull blade (or a broken-tip blade that you would otherwise change out) in one of the handles, put a piece of colored tape on the handle to identify it as a scraper instead of a good cutting blade, and keep it in a small jar of MEK while you are gluing.

Congrats on starting the Chilton project ! The world needs more Chilton Monoplanes, not just the Classics section of HBA. :)

What engine are you going to put in it? (Oh God please don't let him say "Carden Ford")
 

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Todd C.
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X-Acto scraper...good idea!

Engines....Ideally I'd use a Mikron III but they're $10,000 + euros and support seems very nonexistant. To be honest, I wouldn't really mind spending the money if the support was there, but without it the risk of having a $10,000 paperweight is too high for me. So.. that leaves the A-65, VW, or Rotax as the main contenders. Although I'm not very excited to admit, the Rotax 582 is currently leading my list of contenders. While I'm not crazy about the 2 stroke aspect, I do have a lot of experience with 2 strokes so I think I could manage one safely. Plus is would maintain the cowling lines.

VW- Flat 4 ruins the look.
A-65- heavy and ruins the look.

So... I don't know yet. Still making up my mind
 

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Todd C.
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I’m aware of them but not very familiar. I will look into them. Specs certainly line up!
 
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Victor Bravo

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Find the info on Raven Redrives, which may or may not still be in business. If you can find a used Raven Redrive or engine/redrive on Barnstormers, which used the 3 or 4 cyliinder Geo engine, that might be a good inexpensive option.
 

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Todd C.
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Find the info on Raven Redrives, which may or may not still be in business. If you can find a used Raven Redrive or engine/redrive on Barnstormers, which used the 3 or 4 cyliinder Geo engine, that might be a good inexpensive option.
Their website is the most official thing I've seen regarding the Geo engine. I'm continuing to look but if anyone knows of a better place please chime in.

Reliability is a large factor in my choice as I'm sure you understand VB. Emergency landing fields are scarce in a lot of socal.
 

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Todd C.
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Hey VB, just realized it was you who has been liaison to the forums to Pete's 0-100. Please let him know he's got a customer in me. Perfect size and well.. I could make cowl cheeks work for an engine like that.
 

Victor Bravo

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The O-100 is perfect for an airplane like the Chilton, with the exception that the cowl cheeks might seem out of place, even to me as a huge supporter of the O-100. If you could make the cowl cheeks look acceptably British enough, then Pete's engine would be a perfect match, especially where reliability and weight intersect.
 

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Todd C.
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Cylinders sticking out the side I don't think would kill it for me either. Look at a J3- they have the same general cowl shape as a Chilton but no one is starting riots over its appearance.

Stab spar is ready for sheeting. Elevator spar needs glue cleanup performed then ply closeout.
 

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Tiger Tim

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The O-100 is perfect for an airplane like the Chilton, with the exception that the cowl cheeks might seem out of place
That just means the next generation of O-100 will have to be made out of the right or left half of the case, instead of the front half.
 
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VP1

Todd C.
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Wanted a way to use staples to secure the ply during gluing but also didn't to deal with the time consuming hassle of tracing the underlying structure onto the ply etc. So I hot glued a thin piece of ply to the underside of the staple gun with the front set back 5/16". This allows it to slide between the ply being glued on and stop at the structure with the same setback every time. For this situation I set it to drive the staple slightly closer to the spar's neutral axis to help keep the staple holes away from the more highly stressed outer fibers. Unnecessary, but I could so why not..

 
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Chilton

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Talking about flat engines in the Chilton, remeber that two of the originals G-AFGH and G-AFGI both spent large parts of their lives fitted with Lycoming O-145 engines, and the designers planned at one time to offer the type with the JAP flat twin. GH was fitted with the engine at Auster aircraft while owned by Ranald Porteous.

The O-145 is a bit heavy, and really needs to be on the Carden Ford firewall so it further back, even then the CG is right at the forward limit and with a 10 gallon tank the aircraft is at max weight with full tank and 160 lb pilot. The A65 continental is too heavy to fit, but I think the O100 will be a good fit, I may well change G-BWGJ to the Pegasus engine if it is finished by the time I get back to UK.
 

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Todd C.
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Took about a month off due to it being too hard to work in the garage during the summer heat. It's cooling off now so I've been back at it.
Got the stabilizer and fin leading edges laminated. They will be shaped to proper profile after the ribs and spars are glued on.

Cap strips are currently being glued to the stab and fin ribs.

The picture below shows how I did the ribs. The ply web is cut to shape first, then steam the cap strips and bend them to rough form. Hand form each cap strip to match the rib contour. Finally, glue it all together.

The 1/4" stick in my left hand is pushed on with my torso to hold the cap strip tight to the fixed piece of wood screwed to the table. Then I use my right hand to push the ply web against the fixed block. This aligns the ply web and the cap strip, now hit it with the staple gun. Quick and works well. Hope to be assembling the stabilizer this week.
 
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