FRED #528 construction log

Discussion in 'Member Project Logs' started by Abraham Leket, Sep 18, 2013.

Help Support HomeBuiltAirplanes Forum by donating:

  1. Feb 17, 2015 #161

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    676
    Location:
    IsraeI
    DRW4-Front inspection panel: The complete tank is on 72 hours drying time before proceeding further. Meanwhile-the 5052 left overs from the tank construction are put into good use- front inspection panel with a mid-hinge to allow partial opening from either side during Pre-Flight. (4) Dzuse toggle fasteners complete the task of securing the envelop to the fuselage.
    P1010645.jpg
     
    cluttonfred, Joe Fisher and FritzW like this.
  2. Feb 24, 2015 #162

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    676
    Location:
    IsraeI
    Outer Wing Ribs construction: The Rib Jig used to construct the center wing is getting a fresh coat of wax for the 20 ribs needed for the (2) outer wing panels.
    P1010649.jpg

    Each rib requires 4 large 1/16" (80 all together (!)) gussets and they will be constructed using these (2) special template jig constructed from 1/2" pine blocks, and using my router and router table with 1/2" laminate flush trim bit in the method best describe in the EAA video attached below-but we cut a stack of 1/16" ply instead of the single aluminum sheet in the video.

    P1010646.jpg
    P1010647.jpg

    The method: EAA Video Player - Your Source for Aviation Videos
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2015
    Wayne, Joe Fisher and FritzW like this.
  3. Feb 26, 2015 #163

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    676
    Location:
    IsraeI
    First outer rib we do not start the full rib production without a through inspection of the first rib that comes out of the rib jig. Sure enough- I had to trim the master gussets jig by 1/16" to match the 2 spar exits to the center wing spar exits.
    Temperature in the shop was around 43F - so I let T88 cure in the jig for 48 hours-(and still got a tacky response-so another 24 hours was given).
    Once out of the jig I will leave the staples on the rib for a month or so- its safer.
    The rib production will go on for about 2 month- so I will be "off the air" for a while- but in the spring (May) we will already have a full spar & ribs session. Till then- Shalom from IsraeI !
    P1010651.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2015
    Joe Fisher, FritzW and Autodidact like this.
  4. Apr 4, 2015 #164

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    676
    Location:
    IsraeI
    DRW 21- Took some time off from rib construction- to finish the fuel tank.
    Picture #1 : a coat of gray epoxy base was sprayed to detect scratches –when they will appear sooner or later…
    P1010659.jpg
    The suggested retaining straps (0.7 mm and 1.5" wide galvanized steel strip) and its suggested brazed bolt can be modified by using AN470 rivets (3/16" good for 26000 psi shear each..) both ends to connect 2 pieces of 1/16" 4130 (see picture #2 and #3) and omit welding/brazing the 22G steel band to its tention bolt- you will end up with holes (way to thin to be weld and I've tried it believe me...).
    To complete it all- a strip of trucks fuel tank U rubber bands (1.5" wide) can be found in any trucks spare parts store and they fit underneath the 1.5" wide galvanized steel strip (use black silicon glue to attach the rubber to the tank).
    P1010656.jpg
    P1010658.jpg
    The upper picture depicts the 4130 strap end with its (3) 3/16" AN470 rivets exits the top Center Section wing and the lower next picture depicts the tank 4130 retention bracket (the long bolt that tightens the band is seen) and its positioning in relation to the wing upper fittings and the cabane sets):
    P1010662.jpg
    The final result- (2) steel straps in their rubber U supports the 80 Lb fuel tank full load that at 2G landing (full stall at 2 feet) turns into 160Lb force:shock:- so...do take your time to make the retaining straps solid:
    P1010661.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2015
  5. May 26, 2015 #165

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    676
    Location:
    IsraeI
    DRW2: Wing rib construction: constructing the 20 rib takes around 80 man hours net, and if you plug-in the glue drying time (between tasks) -its more like 1.5-2 month of an on-going process.
    Each rib requires 20 gussets and 150+ staples (that needs to be remove after dry).
    To ease construction the gussets are pre-cut, labeled and stored in dixie cups like so:
    P1010652.jpg

    The process is simple- we lay the 1/2"x1/4" rib member inside the rib jig ( no need to wet the member if the wood is fresh from the vendor) cover each gussets with T88 on its inside surface- also lay some glue on the rib member that comes in direct contact with the gusset-and staple it to the member using at least 5 staples along its circumference (the large front and back gussets requires at least 20 staples each).
    Once dry we take it out of the jig and proceed to the next rib- meanwhile the finished rib is drying and waiting for its opposite side gussets (which is performed outside the jig).
    In the winter its a good 30 days for the whole 20 ribs construction cycle to completly dry.
    The staples are not removed yet.
    See the following que- a unit after jig is drying waiting for its opposite gusset set- while a unit inside the jig getting its first gussets set:
    P1010654.jpg
    We repeat this process 20 times-and as mentioned- took me a good 2 month to get to the below picture status. Once all is dry we pull out the staples.
    BTW- it took me 8 hours to yank out the 3000+ staples and thus saved a good 1 pound. Another point-while pulling the staples out it sometimes pulls a gusset end out-and that a good sign that the bonding was not 100%. I had at least 8 gussets that way and had to re-glue the joint, staple it again and test it again while pulling its staples out. I think it should be mandatory to pass the "staple yanking test" to test the rib gussets "under pressure"- any gusset that passes- will indure flight forces for sure:
    P1010667.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2015
    Joe Fisher, cluttonfred and FritzW like this.
  6. May 26, 2015 #166

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    676
    Location:
    IsraeI
    DRW2:Wing rib construction: There are 3 types of ribs:
    (2) outer wing root rib with its almost full outer gusset (1/32" ply) dust cover that replaces the regular gussets layout and large openings to clear the wing root fittings and allow tools and palms to be inserted while constructing the wing ( notice that I've omitted in ALL 20 ribs the vertical inner rib support that should come in contact with the main spar- this support will be installed after the rib is inserted onto the spar and secured).
    The inner side of the root rib has gussets like a regular rib.
    P1010664.jpg

    (12) regular wing ribs:

    P1010665.jpg

    (6) aileron type ribs (notice the 2"+1/8" large back opening to clear the (1/2"x3"+1/16") aileron spar+ 1" hinge gap+(1/2"x3.25"+1/16") rear spar)
    P1010666.jpg

    Last is the (4) aileron "false" ribs-they too need to be constructed inside the wing jig for they have underchamber like the main ribs (these 4 short ribs covers the aileron sides) notice the inner gusset is larger-to cover the aileron spar end.
    Also notice gusset vertical web direction :
    P1010668.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2015
  7. May 26, 2015 #167

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    676
    Location:
    IsraeI
    Wing rib construction Before we put on the last front gusset we glue the leading edge pine block with its 45 degrees grain orientation like so (to be cont.):
    P1010669.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2015
  8. Jun 10, 2015 #168

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    676
    Location:
    IsraeI
    Leading Edge notch: The 1/2"x1/2" leading edge spruce spar must be straight as an arrow- and for that we have to notch each rib at EXACTLY the same place and in the right angle in relation to the rib datum.
    We first draw the rib front circumference on the work bench and draw the cut angle line like so:
    P1010670.jpg

    We position each rib on the circumference line and draw the 1/2"x1/2" notch position like so (note staples are still on):
    P1010671.jpg

    We then cut the notch border lines in a band saw like so:
    P1010675.jpg

    We use Dremel with the right bit to grind the inner notch to fit the 1/2"x1/2" spar. The pre-cut border lines will keep the dremel bit from cutting outside the notch Perimeter
    (note that I've marked the Dremel rotation- good practice when you grind):
    P1010673.jpg

    We now check the notch to fit a 1/2"x1/2" sample- it OK. takes 5 minutes for each rib and another 3 minutes to remove the front gusset staples and multipy the total time by 20 ribs- a standard night shift...
    P1010678.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2015
  9. Jun 26, 2015 #169

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    676
    Location:
    IsraeI
    DRW14-Aileron outer wing horn : Before constructing the main spar we need to have all outer wing metal fittings constructed out of 1/8" 4130 for B1,C,D,D1 main spar fittings.
    The aileron horn is constructed out of 4130 18G steel and a good quality electric shears is more than capable in cutting it (18g is its upper limit)-mine was a well used $50 Bosch sheet metal shear (Ebay).
    So- we start with the aileron horn by cutting the (4) horn outline-(set #1 is depicted. Note that after drilling the holes we match the pair and keep the set tied):
    P1010681.jpg

    The 1" gap in between the horn cheeks allows us to insert it to its matching Center Section horn Bobbin when folding and unfolding the outer wing- the 18G 4130 (2) cable links are S bend 20 degrees twice (see picture and DRW14) thus reduce the 1" gap to 1/4" so the the aileron cable thimble will not wander around:
    P1010680.jpg

    Another view of the cable link reducer relative to the horn 1" gap

    P1010686.jpg

    The horn can be tested now against the Center Section horn bobbin (the 1/4" bolt will be replaced later on by a quick release 1/4" T pin):

    P1010685.jpg

    The finished product (1 out of 2)-all friction shims brazed and the horn is ready to be installed (nuts will be replaced by castle nuts and split pins later on).
    P1010687.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2015
    Wayne, Joe Fisher and FritzW like this.
  10. Jun 29, 2015 #170

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    676
    Location:
    IsraeI
    Squat time- true to its homebuild definition parasol FRED needs only 2 pins to be removed from the upper shock bracket and the whole airframe is lower by more then a foot to allow easy approach to the wing fittings and the process of adjusting the outer wing panel to the wing center section is done at eyes level. Nice…
    P1010688.jpg
     
    FritzW and Joe Fisher like this.
  11. Jun 29, 2015 #171

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    676
    Location:
    IsraeI
    Outer wing fitting-B1: consider the B1 to be the "mother of all fittings" in FRED construction. 4130 1/8" steel and multiple curves dont mix together-at least not easy to cut. So.. to tackle it we use the upside-down reciprocating saw depicted here (and a good quality cutting oil). Its main advantage over sabre saw is its super heavy duty, and when we cut 1/8" steel sheets for a hour plus- it takes it without excessive heat: P1010691.jpg
    We first cut the straight lines and later on we will use a side grinder to shape the curves. The B1 paper template is copy onto the steel sheets (pre cut to the rough shape) and the straight lines are cut like so (To be cont.): P1010689.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2015
    FritzW, Taiser, jmt1991 and 1 other person like this.
  12. Jul 7, 2015 #172

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    676
    Location:
    IsraeI
    DRW27-Wing Center section-Cabane Bracing: For some reason the designer-Eric Clutton choosed to post this very important bracing as though its an afterthought (the very last page in the plan)- but not so.
    This bracing MUST be produce and fit before any attempt to load the center section main spar with its outer wing panels and its associated weight.
    With that in mind- 18G 4130 (4) fittings (marked A and B in the plan) are cut. Notice that I've made the holes before cutting the members-its a good practice not to fiddle with small items like that in front of a drill- keeps your fingers intact:
    P1010692.jpg

    Brace "B" is doubled at its point of connection with the 3/32" wire to give the fitting an extra strength and the extra (2) 18G 4130 are brazed to brace "B" like so:
    (again notice that I'm using the whole 4130 strip to braze and not fiddling with a small pre-cut one. Cutting is done after brazing:
    P1010697.jpg

    The designer uses a rather weak point to attach the wire to the "B" brace (see picture above -the plan lower right side drawing- realy too old school- even for me..)- I'm using a 1/4" bolt and a 3/32" size thimble:
    P1010695.jpg

    Next- the "B' brace is bend 35 degrees and attached to the lower rear cabane strut like so:
    P1010698.jpg

    The upper "A" brace is attached to the upper rear cabane 1/4" bolt and a turnbuckel like so (I've used a spacer to keep the wire away from my neck and the shoulder safety belts-see next picture for the reason):
    P1010694.jpg

    The complete set gets (2) 3/32" wires and a 1/16" ply anti-friction disk in between the (2) wires. We wind the turnbuckels to a nice "twing" sound and we are ready now to mate the center section with its outer wing panels (now its apparent why its neccessary to move the bracing as far back as possible- somebody must seat there...):

    P1010700.jpg

    P1010699.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2015
    FritzW and Joe Fisher like this.
  13. Jul 9, 2015 #173

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    676
    Location:
    IsraeI
    Outer wing fittings-adjustments: The upper 1/2" 4130 steel pin is constructed in a lathe out of a solid 3/4" 4130 bar reduced to 1/2" x 3.5":
    P1010702.jpg

    And tested against the center section upper fittings for free play- it should slide easy but not rattle when you shake it- about 0.2 MM total play is fine-
    P1010703.jpg

    Now we can complete the "B1" fittings by 1/2" drilling its head and shape it accordingly- the "B1" fitting should hug the pin without play-so.. sand it gingerly or you will lose the fitting- it should be a snug fit :

    P1010701.jpg

    The (2) "B1" fittings are now checked agains the pin for engagement- I did have some clearance issue with the fuel tank rails- nothing a Dramel cannot handle..:
    P1010704.jpg

    just in time- got a call from Fedex that the 9' wood for the outer wing panel has arrived from California- I'm all ready to construct the outer wing spars with all the fittings ready. There is just one item that needs to be reworked- details will be posted.
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2015
    cluttonfred, FritzW and Joe Fisher like this.
  14. Jul 11, 2015 #174

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    676
    Location:
    IsraeI
    Upper pin retainer The plan (see DRW9) calls for an 18G bell-shaped retainer attached to the fuel tank- with glue (!)- I think I came out with something more solid and much easier to produce- (2) blocks of 3/4" spruce and (1) 90 degrees 18G tang.
    (all needed parts surely exists as left overs from past construction) , 2 wood screws and (1) 3/32" split pin- all retain the upper pin from moving inside the center section wing fittings.
    (The upper pin is permanenly attached to the upper fitting- its the lower pin that we pull in and out when folding/unfolding the wing).
    No need to go overboard in this simple task- the designer calls for only (1) 3/32" split pin. Here is my retaining system- a 90 degrees tang in the front attached with (2) 3/16" X 1/2" wood screws to a 3/4" square block (glued to the main spar front between the fuel tank and the main spar). In the tang- a 3/32" hole to accept the split pin that goes through the pin and through the tang- and thats more or less what the plan DRW9 calls for.
    For an extra measure- the second 3/4" spruce block is glued to the center section rib (adjacent to the pin head)- to prevent the pin from moving backward- should the split pin fails for some reason (consequently might cause the pin to move backward and the front B1 fitting to sink - not a catastrophic event since we got another B1 to hold (see post above) - but a probable discomfort to the pilot-YES..):
    P1010705.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2015
    Joe Fisher, FritzW and cluttonfred like this.
  15. Jul 12, 2015 #175

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    676
    Location:
    IsraeI
    A picture for those who build aircraft- Day of glory when the truck delivers whatever was ordered- in this case- 9' outer wing spar quality spruce-shipped all the way from Alaska- to California- to New Jersy- to Israel - 40 days.
    P1010706.jpg

    And that smell of fresh spruce- bits the scent of a new car-anytime...
    P1010707.jpg
     
    Wayne, Joe Fisher, jmt1991 and 4 others like this.
  16. Jul 14, 2015 #176

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    676
    Location:
    IsraeI
    Outer wing main spar construction (DRW8): A major point begins in the bill of material- the plan call for 1"x 7.25" root piece spar- now a 1"spar stock quality 7.25" in width is practically none available these days and even if its in stock-is VERY expensive (remember – the plan is from the 60's and back then they produce brooms from spruce..). But- the designer Eric Clutton allows lamination (see remark in DRW8)- So..I've purchase a ready in stock 1"x5.25" and added (2) 1" square capstrip quality to get that 7.25".
    I use Resorcinol type glue on all critical joints and wing root is one of them-if not the first in priority.
    Note that this type of glue is good for application when the temp is above 70 F. We are in the high 90's here- no problem. No question about Resorcinol type glue- it’s the only glue used by prop manufacturers and once you use it-you see the difference between it and T88 ( which is fine when you have uneven surfaces and light to medium load application . Enough said (getting into glue argument is pointless-its my opinion).
    Here are the (2) root pieces laminated (with hefty amount of glue) and cut accordingly. What you see here is the starboard and the port root pieces side by side:
    P1010708.jpg

    The (2) 1" square wing spar upper and lower capstrips are attached to the root piece. But first we use the second root piece to serve as an temporary alignment tool for the opposite side of the long spar- during glueing . So we just lightly staple it like so with 1/16" ply piece-this will keep the capstrip from "spread eagle" on us (all will be removed after the glue of the root opposite spar side is dry.
    Notice that I'm using the flat floor to construct the spar- true "old school" HomeBuild technique...:
    P1010711.jpg

    We now apply Resourcinol to the root piece-as said- hefty amount. Same treatment is given to the (2) inner capstrip side that comes in contact with the root piece:
    P1010714.jpg

    We are now ready to construct the spar- the (2) 1" square capstrips are glued to the laminated center 7.25" piece and clamps are used to make it all bond together (Resorcinol need pressure-a lots of it).
    Now we got the full 9.25" spar width:
    P1010712.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2015
    jmt1991, FritzW and Joe Fisher like this.
  17. Jul 16, 2015 #177

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    676
    Location:
    IsraeI
    DRW 8- remark: The plan calls for (3) 1" square uprights inside the spar. The first upright-54" from root to middle upright. The second- 78" from root to middle upright. The third- seals the spar at the tip. So far-so good BUT-
    DRW 14 indicate that the eileron cable exits the spar at 79.5" from root. wait a minute- the pully bracket is "in the air"?
    The middle upright that should support the pully bracket is 1.5" short of the bracket location (79.5"-78"=1.5") Its a point that was overlooked by the designer- and after reviewing the pully bracket drawing (DRW14) I know the reason why.
    He forgot to add in the plan (2) 1"square blocks (for 2 pully brackets). The addition blocks (as picture depicts) position the pully bracket center 3/16" holes (that are 1" from the cable) EXACTLY in the middle of the blocks.
    All is well now. (BTW- the uprights are glued with T88- its a butt joint and T88 is best for this mission).
    P1010715.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2015
  18. Jul 19, 2015 #178

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    676
    Location:
    IsraeI
    DRW9-Packing out the outer wing fittings bases: The spar without its diagonals is still light enough to be handled easy and we therefore apply the vertical web 1/16" ply to the root piece (both sides). Resourcinol is just great for lamination and we apply it liberally:
    P1010716.jpg

    DRW9 calls for 5/16" and 3/8" packing out- at this point- I just dont see the need for such a thick clearances- so I started out with 1/4" ply and later on in the construction' i.e during wing assembly we will/will not biff the size.
    1/4" is a good starting point for all (8) fittings bases:
    P1010719.jpg

    The 1/4" bars are stapled and let overnight to cure:
    P1010720.jpg

    Next day-The final product- (2) spars packed out waiting for spar alignment test ( center section wing pins with outer wing B and B1 fittings)
    P1010721.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2015
    Joe Fisher, FritzW and steveair2 like this.
  19. Jul 20, 2015 #179

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    676
    Location:
    IsraeI
    DRW9- Outer wing Main spar Dihedral setting: This is the ONLY time in the construction process to adjust fittings "B" and "B1" in relation to the center section upper and lower 1/2" pins.
    The outer wing main spar-I've already mentioned- is pre- diagonals and therefore light and easy to rotate by one person.
    We start with "B1" on top- the designer posts a warning in DRW 9: "top "hook" fitting B1 must be fully engaged"- and we therefore make sure it does and we use clamps to pin the B1's to the main spar-check full engagement i.e- upper pin all the way inside B1's inner channel-ONLY then we mark the holes into the spar (throught the holes in the fitting) drill and secure the fitting upper set:
    P1010722.jpg
    Top "B1" is secured now with 1/4" construction bolt and we move to the lower "B" fitting.
    The positioning of "B" fittings determine the dihedral- extending it will increase the degrees and vis versa. I took 4 mm extension in lower "B" fittings to come out with 1.5 degree positive dihedral:
    P1010728.jpg
    Once satisfied with the settings we drill through "B" fitting holes in the spar,secure the fittings with 1/4" construction bolts thus we lock the dihedral. BTW- I was right about the packings- 1/4" is all we need. Another thing- to make sure the port wing will have the same dihedral we measure the starboard wing tip from ground. When adjusting the port wing all you need to do is just copy the distance measured at tip of starboard-and you got the same dihedral on both wings.
    P1010727.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2015
  20. Jul 24, 2015 #180

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    676
    Location:
    IsraeI
    1/2"x1" Spar diagonals: Always somewhat complicated due to the (2) cut angle on each diagonal- the fit of the diagonal to the spar 1" beams should be as close to 100% as possible (took me 5 hours (2 night shifts) to cut, match angels & glue).
    My so-called "Hangar 9" is getting crowded and space is at premium. Gee how I envy the American size Garages ..but I knew what I was getting into since day 1…
    Take this picture- the spars are stacked, complete & varnished wing ribs at the right- waiting to be sliped on. Progress and spirit is there (added by progress reports from Pete Plum's O-100- were depended on you Pete- do your very best !:
    P1010730.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2015
    Joe Fisher, jmt1991 and FritzW like this.

Share This Page

arrow_white