FRED #528 construction log

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Abraham Leket

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Wing tip (DRW8) and ply gussets: to my complete surprise this task tured out to be rather hard to produce-part of it can be attributed to the cold temperature (50-60F) and the slow curing of T88 under the gussets. In short- its a summer job to do it quickly.
We start with 3 triangles- the picture depects the items- ply covers,spruce sides and ply gussets-1:1 from the plan:
P1010813.jpg

They are glued to Rib #10 like so (#4 is the rear spar):
P1010814.jpg

The 1/2" spruce tip bow is bended wet on top of the triangles- clamps are used for 72 odd hours -otherwise it will spring back since its not supported by gussets yet:
P1010821.jpg

(2) Center grip bay large 1/16" ply gussets are constructed. The small inner wood blocks will support the inner 1/16" ply-later on:
P1010824.jpg

The 1/2" spruce wing tip is well supported by gussets to create a firm base for the tip and to ease the Ceconite covering- much later on. Note that at this point-the aileron has been cut-off from the wing. Its time..
P1010828.jpg

Still more gussets complete the tip construction, note that the center hand grip bay is now inside covered with 1/16" ply-this will prevent dust entry when all covering is done. The wing gets 2 large 1/16" ply covering in between rib #7 and rib #8-they support the covering in the aileron 3/32" cable exit points:
P1010826.jpg

The lower 1/16" ply cover gets its pullies inspection panel door:
P1010825.jpg
 
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Abraham Leket

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One good picture of wing tip triangles and hand grip was somehow left behind- so-I'm posting it. I'm using this post to post my decision to cover the aileron with 1/32" ply top and bottom surfaces. Ceconite will go on top of it later on. Why ply cover? - well.. according to FAA recent study..naaa forget it ... I had (1) 48"x48" 1/32" ply sheet left over- its a shame not to use this fine ply- thats why.

The wing root (3) triangles and hand grip:

P1010829.jpg

The aileron covered:

P1010830.jpg
 

Abraham Leket

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Wing root-1/16" ply skin- Some of the close up pictures of FRED construction logs (way in the past) depicts some questionable practices stems from the need to conserve ply. I'm talking web direction and Eric Clutton specifically mark the ply web direction needed in the wing root.
The only way to construct it in the true web direction is by purchasing a whole 48"x48" 1/16" ply sheet and deal with the cutting accordingly i.e- web direction- as DRW8 indicates. (1) 48"x48" whole sheet will cover one wing root area (top & bottom).
The following is the skin on top of the root:
P1010831.jpg

The bottom ply cover needs to have a recess for the aileron pip-pin insertion on each and every wing fold session so we cut 7"x4" opening (6"x4" in the plan but we are much bigger these days..) and add a door,a hing and secure its opening with either the prefered Dzus product or magnet- like in the picture). This is done on the bottom skin before gluing it (I've been using Dremel wood cutting wheel throughout FRED's construction- the straight lines of the opening in the ply skin can attest that its the right tool ..)

P1010833.jpg

The bottom root cover can now be glued (note web direction at 45 degrees):

P1010832.jpg

Thats it folks! Port wing fully completed. The Starboard wing will be just a mirron image of the Port wing construction that I've presented in the past 4.5 month. so it will not be posted in the log.
See you all in April 2016- after starboard wing completion and - for the first airframe inspection before covering- done by the Israeli Aviation Authorities.

Happy new year everyone!
 
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Abraham Leket

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DRW19-Flying wires and fittings: All it takes is a solid 5/8 4130 bar and the following tools:
1/4-28 LH tap, 5.9mm drill, 14-28 Die:
P1010853.jpg
The 2" 5/8" bar is drilled with 5.9 mm and taped both end with 1/4"-28 LH. The 7.5" and the approximated 62" flying wires get the 14-28 die both ends:
P1010838.jpg

The 1.75" fittings are also drilled and taped 1/4-28 LH.
You get the universal joints by grinding one end to accept the flying wire tabs in the fusalage:
P1010852.jpg
The long 62" also receive 5/8" plugs that later will be grind in the middle to attach to the wing fittings:

P1010848.jpg
P1010835.jpg
P1010856.jpg
P1010836.jpg

The attached thumbnails depict the (2) sets require" the lower 7.5" with the 5/8" turnbuckle (at the left ) with its winding hole("tommy bar"), and the top 62" 1/4" flying wire set:
 

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Abraham Leket

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DRW22-Pitot tube: While constructing the starboard wing you meet the following little job- constructiong a retractable pitot tube- the pictures depicts the process:
P1010850.jpg
P1010851.jpg
P1010854.jpg
The pitot tube is retracted when the wing folds:
P1010855.jpg
 
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Abraham Leket

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Building the FRED structure is completed: The starboard wing took a good 4 month to build. The Jewish hollidays are long and no work was applied for weeks on the total. I've purchased the needed 35 yard uncertified covering (Superflite) from Stewart System plus all the tapes (reinforcing,anti chafe,bias, pinked), gallon of water based Ekobond, and many small grumments and inspection rings, thread for stitching, paint strainer, pocket themometer, needles,foam brushes - all for less than $750.
This what makes FRED so non-expensive. I will use Latex primer/filler and Water based Latex top coats for less than $200 so we talk about $1000 covering and paint- 20% from total FREDs' B.O.M- Thats the logical ratio for homebuilds (in my opinion).
The Starboard wing getting finall inspection:
P1010857.jpg
 
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Abraham Leket

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Sanding,fillers and varnish: The building process has ended May 31st, but the surface preparation before IAA pre-cover inspection has just begun.
Every joint and every ply plank is checked for fit and smoothness- Polyester lite filler ("painters filler") is used on areas that might show underneath the cover. Filling and sanding proceed the epoxy varnish- and going over the whole frame took me every spare night in June (were temperature got below 80 degrees).
Once satisfied with the frame- the whole frame was cleaned with alcohol and yellow tinted epoxy varnish was brushed ONLY on areas that will come in direct contact with the Dacron cover. FRED needs around 3 Lb of epoxy varnish mix to cover all such areas, there is no point in adding weight and varnish internal frame members.
I’ve tinted the varnish yellow to guide the brush and avoid missing spots since the epoxy varnish is totally clear.
WIN_20160714_20_49_53_Pro.jpg
 
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Abraham Leket

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After 24 hours the varnish shines like a mirror. There is major difference between 2 parts varnish and mineral one- the water based Stewart Ekobond adheres to solid surfaces (steel, Aluminum, Fiberglass and Epoxy) much better than on to bare wood.
Notice starboard wing on top- already varnished as Port wing. Each wing consume 300 grams (11 Oz) of varnish.
keep the surface clean from fingerprints since the epoxy varnish will peal on oily areas. As mentioned- use alcohol to wipe the surface to be varnished.

yellow.jpg
 
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Abraham Leket

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Varnish (Cont.): The ailerons were covered with 1/32” ply for the sole reason that even FRED’s ailerons has Under chamber (British all the way..)- and I felt a little uncomfortable covering it with only Dacron and still be able to maintain that shape.
Anyway- varnish the ailerons was done but not before all imperfections fill with polyester resin,
Sanded smooth and cleaned with alcohol to remove all dust and fingerprints prior to the epoxy varnish.
The second picture depicts all tail members- varnished and ready for final assembly for the IAA inspection.
ailerons.jpg

tail members.jpg
 

Abraham Leket

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IAA frame Inspection: Was held Today August 18th 08:00 . By 09:30 I got a go ahead from the inspectors to proceed to covering & engine stage. Few small rejects (will be corrected further on) and some paperwork to submit (raw material invoices etc).
The inspection was held in my humble "Hangar 9" as you can see..
iaa.jpg
fuse.jpg
 

Abraham Leket

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Fixing rejects: One big demeret was the proximity of the aileron wires at their intersection point. Good chance that they will rube against each other sooner or later. so-DRW14 provides the construction plan for a nylon bridge to be used to raise the upper wire thus preventing contact:
cable.jpg
I've also raised the upper wire eileron pully by 1/4" by inserting 1/4" ply under its base.
Also note that the 1/4" bolt (1 out of 3) that hold the wing strut fitting- was turned upside down to eliminate possible contact.
Also note the word INSP written -to mark the inspection panel ring to be glued to the lower dacron cover. This inspection point will show during inspections-possible future degregation of the nylon bridge.
 
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Abraham Leket

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Rib Stitching-- pure fun. I spray very light coat of 3M glue spray on the rib to support the reinforcing tape which has a slight sticky surface-but not enough to hold in a hot summer and measure 4 times the rib length for the cord. FRED does not need stiching since its VNA is below 100 KT- but the process is so easy and fun-that it calls for it.
As for the type of knot- Youtube has plenty of styles- I took modified Seine .
 

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Abraham Leket

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On the twelfth day of Christmas
My true love gave to me
Sonex Aerovee
Matching stainless muffs
Custom air filter
62” prop
Oil pressure unit
Oil temp set
Rear 4” wheel
Special VW tools
External oil cool
AN pipe set
Oil changing set

And a partridge in a pear tree!

????.jpg
 

Abraham Leket

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Rear Wheel assembly: Took some time off covering to "go metal" for a nice change of pace...
FRED plan calls for either sledge type or wheel assembly and originally I prefered the simplicity of the sledge- until some nasty ground loop in the Youtube convinced me that the least I can do for groung stability is to have some firm rudder control via rear wheel .
4" Caster for $25 was purchased from Sonerai and 4" wheel ($38) from Sonex. The rest of the fittings- self made from 2mm 4130 sheet metal.
For less that $80 B.O.M you get a first class rear wheel assembly- Vendors charge $200-$240 for more or less the same finished assembly -thats almost 250% more..:
rearwheel.jpg
 
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Abraham Leket

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Fuselage rear section cover: The bottom cloth is a certified 2.7 OZ to take all the abuse from stones and weeds and it is done first. The 1.7 OZ sides follow and top covering comes last and its also the non-certified 1.7 OZ superflight.
The tapes are either 3" wide or 1" wide-depends on the area. ,
The covering process is not an easy one and it requires a LOT of patience. Picture is tilted 90 degrees for some reason.For orientation note the rudder cable white exit fairing. Sorry about it.
fuse.jpg
 
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