FRED #528 construction log

Discussion in 'Member Project Logs' started by Abraham Leket, Sep 18, 2013.

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1. Sep 19, 2014

Abraham Leket

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Port side panel- 3/32" ply and rear inspection panel. 3.5 Oz T88 and plenty of staples on all longerons diagonals and uprights to insure full contact all around.
Scarfing was needed since the panel needed is bigger than 48".

Last edited: Sep 20, 2014
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2. Sep 19, 2014

Abraham Leket

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3. Sep 22, 2014

Abraham Leket

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Varnish- While the starboard side is still open-its time to varnish the inner cockpit and we use the wide open starboard side to gain access-a single light coat against moisture- I use $15 PolyUrithan varnish type no fancy Yacht varnish and no 2 part varnish- just simple moisture protection varnish and a single coat will do and this will last well after many other FRED's items will deterioate in 2025 such as Ceconite cover- so laying 3 coats that will last 20 years will only add weight and smell... After 24 hours the varnish is dry and the starboard ply is cut and put to measure against the longerons (see picture). Varnish the inner starboard side will be more difficult- but its only 33% of the cockpit. Last edited: Sep 22, 2014 Joe Fisher, FritzW and Aerowerx like this. 4. Oct 6, 2014 Abraham Leket Abraham Leket Well-Known Member Joined: Sep 18, 2012 Messages: 349 Likes Received: 676 Location: IsraeI DRW13 -Center Section Aileron horns While waiting 2 month for wing wood to arrive (California-Israel) - I can close some of the lose end jobs-and there are many..I start with connecting port and starboard aileron horns with AN6 to the main spar and connecting the two with 1/2" 4130 steel balance rod. The balance rod was red heated on both ends then I flat the ends with a hammer and drill 3/16" both ends. I've noticed that the weight of the rod also add stability to the aileron horns movement as they go with their cycle. Picture top-starboard side, picture bottom-port side. Last edited: Oct 6, 2014 Joe Fisher and FritzW like this. 5. Oct 8, 2014 Abraham Leket Abraham Leket Well-Known Member Joined: Sep 18, 2012 Messages: 349 Likes Received: 676 Location: IsraeI DRW13-Aileron Turnbuckle Using 7x7 galvenized 3/32" diameter steel control cable has its merits- you only need one press on the 51-G-887 tin sleeve with a relatively cheep 32:VC-VG single goove tool ($80 used on Ebay-just wait for someone to finish his project-$170 new before shippment)) and not the #63 to #65 triple press tool ($300+ if you're lucky..) used on the slightly wider 1/8" control cable. Beside- FRED is not P-51 doing 350 MPH-so-3/32" is just right for me (920 Ib sheer) and its recommended by FRED's designer-Eric Clutton . picture is tilted 90 degrees-sorry...
Notice that I've used 2 sleeves method-I've seen it in EAA video and adopted it.
I'm using MS21251 turnbuckel with 2 MS21255-3 cable eye (LS-RS)-my favorite hookup setting.

Last edited: Oct 8, 2014
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6. Oct 9, 2014

Abraham Leket

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Firewall proofing: Another task to do-this time Unifrax 970F ceramic sheet- looks like heavy duty paper towel but let you down in one piece in +-2 minutes -in case you have fire going on up front.
Silicon glue to tack it to the wood with 2" overlap on all sides and .023" steel sheet will follow on top of it.

Last edited: Oct 9, 2014
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7. Oct 10, 2014

Abraham Leket

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Forming the steel firewall- out of 0.023" steel sheet requires a bit of hammering and cutting- a good practice for the engine baffels job in the future. The engine mounts have to be removed and put back again on top of the metal -after
shaping. Note that about an inch of Firefrax is still showing- good protection never hurts.
Picture 1 is 220Ib me- got to lose 20Ib before test flight..

Last edited: Oct 10, 2014
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8. Oct 14, 2014

Abraham Leket

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Another task-Sealing the Center Section: Lower 1/16" ply will seal the C/S but before that we need to change all construction bolts to AN sets, put 2 cutter pins on the AN6 aileron pivots, and varnish the whole wood interior. In the picture-varnish is drying before appplying lower ply skin. Areas to be glued are not varnished.

Last edited: Oct 14, 2014
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9. Nov 24, 2014

Abraham Leket

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Break line and conduit took a while to find the right conduit and its 2.0 steel cable and get the right fittings (remember that I dont live in the US so..every small fitting has to be ordered and joint to some other parts that were ordered- for one single economical shippment.

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10. Nov 24, 2014

Abraham Leket

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DRW21- Fuel tank construction
first step- construction of a wood jig to shape the wrap around 5052 H32 sheet:

Next- drill the 1/8" outer rivets holes (every 5/8") and make the 2 pickup 3/4" holes and 1" fueling upper hole before inserting the sheet into the jig using the cutout jig wood like so:

next- we construct 4 tank brackets as DRW21 suggests- using 6061 L shapes and attach them to the main spare fittings:

next - we shape the tank rear wall and attach it to the brackets ( using cleco only- we only shape the tank at this point). 3/4" spruce rail serves as buffer on the lower bracket (see DRW21)

next we remove the wrap around sheet from the jig and attach it with cleco to the rear sheet to test fit and shape for our next item- the side panels (to be cotinue)

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11. Nov 26, 2014

Abraham Leket

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The jig wooden side plate was inserted to the tank to test fit-and not surprisingly- its under pressure ( picture 1).
Oxy/Acy was gingerly applied to the envelop to release some of it-and it did ( picture 2).

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12. Dec 12, 2014

Abraham Leket

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Fuel tank members made out of 5052 H32 but shaping the members edges to fit the overall wing rib is a major task- I've decided to use Polyester and cloth to fit around each member circumference to enable me to attach the member to the tank envelope. In IsraeI we use straight gas and not ethanol so polyester is used without fear of melting. Derakane Momentum resin (such as Ester resin) can be used when methanol is involved).The first task is to build a wooden jig and place the member with an aluminum strip around its circumference- polyester will not stick to it so there is no need for waxing prior to resin and cloth application:
Next we apply 4 layers of cloth and resin to the inner member lips ( avoid the clasical "just one more to make sure") :
We then remove the circumference strip and we end up with a solid rim all around the member-no way you do it by shaping the aluminum member or welding- this method is clean, strong and allows plenty of space to rivet the member to the tank envelop and its smooth outer surface is an asset to the pro-seal which will seal it completly- prior to riveting.
The picture depicts the double rim used on the baffle member that will be station inside the tank-they are just slightly flexible

Last edited: Dec 12, 2014
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13. Dec 16, 2014

Abraham Leket

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Checking the member fit: Molding the side circumferences is one thing- but making it 100% fit is a whole different issue-it HAS to fit right in order to let the Pro-Seal do its job. No pro-seal will ever seal your tank if you have gaps in the members- and I'm glad it turned out all right in all 3 member.
The key ingredient is using the 3 part Polyester (Resin+excelerator+hardner)- ever since my days in R/C moldling tasks I've got fond of Polyester- if you mix the 3 parts EXACTLY as it should and not overdue the excelerator or the hardner-you get a hard smooth surface in 4-5 hours in 20-30F -and its fuel proof.
FRED's designer Eric clutton uses Polyester on all of FRED's tank surfaces inside -out but the plan is from the sixties-design for 100% alcohol free gas.
As mention-you can substitute Ester to mold the rims if you put Ethanol in the tank.
Check the member rims (using FritzX "outside rim" method-excellent idea-the Polyester is on the outside and not in contact with fuel whatsoever. The picture shows the tank outside port side:

And its inside fit. Note that only 5052 Aluminum is in contact with fuel (Proseal is not applied yet we just check fitness)

Last edited: Dec 16, 2014
14. Dec 18, 2014

Abraham Leket

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Fuel tank fittings: I was fiddling with the idea to weld the fittings-and as Pauly from the Soprano said: "Forget about it" - sheer madness.
The weld type fittings have enough circumference area to drill 1/8" hole and place an Avex set around.
Pro-Seal will be applied generously underneath to fuelproof each and every fitting.
So-check this settings- the middle one is for Belite Fuel probe- :cheeky:- love yourself a little- its Christmas!

Last edited: Dec 19, 2014
15. Dec 19, 2014

Abraham Leket

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ProSeal:Fay-sealing: First- clean the area to be glued with Acetone to clear all oily fingure printings and after it dries both sufaces are covered with Proseal and using few Clecos the fittings are pressed into the tank envelope.
My best advise when dealing with ProSeal- when done- WALK AWAY from the place for 24 hours and do not stare at it to admire (yourself and/or the work)-this will keep you clean- ProSeal is rightfully called "black death"...it sticks in no time to almost everything.
Note that I've used painters tape around the area to avoid applying Proseal all over. When done just remove it and you got a clean job.
Another neat idea is performed 1.5-2 hours after application: wet your fingure with water-and smooth the area glued-ProSeal will not stick to your fingure as long as its wet. Notice how smooth the ProSeal is.

Last edited: Dec 19, 2014
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16. Dec 24, 2014

Abraham Leket

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Internal flanged baffle: Goes on first- to gain some experience in the process without the need to seal the baffle 100% since its objective is to slow down fuel- not to fuel proof the compartments.
A swirled dollop of Pro Seal around the shop head of each rivet is necessary though and I've limited the number of rivets that connect the baffle to the envelop- the less holes-the better.
Note the generous and heavy application of Pro-Seal around all fittings- this process is not a beauty contest-we need 110% fuel proof and no second chance to correct..

Last edited: Dec 24, 2014
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17. Jan 5, 2015

Abraham Leket

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Fuel tank side formers Its important to do a free Pro-Seal "general clean rehearsal" before attach each side using clecos and mark the positioning of the member and its 1/8" holes in relation to the envelop holes -once Proseal is applied to both side ("fay sealing") this "black death" covers all pre drilled holes and you may find yourself fumbling trying to match the 1/8" holes (blocked by ProSeal by now..) with the member while strings of pro-seal hanging from it like a running nose on the working area- so... make sure in the rehearsal you attach it blindly and coordinated in one try. You then attach the member with clecos and walk away from it for 48 hours (in winter). Notice in picture #3-the inner side is clean and in my opinion- fuel proof even before an application of ProSeal to the inner surfaces.
Also notice that I've masked the fuel fittings-in case I will be left with a surplus ProSeal in this run-it will be applied to the fittings for extra measure. Alas-no Proseal was left:dis:
(BTW- 7 oz were used so far for the fittings and 3 members. I will need another 7 oz for the inner application and the back cover hence we talk about 14 oz Pro-Seal for a 8(+-) Gallon tank (26" x14"x 10").

Last edited: Jan 5, 2015
18. Feb 4, 2015

Abraham Leket

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Fuel tank leakage test-side panels: As long as we have good access to the inner tank-we perform a simple leakage test by placing the tank on its construction jig (the tank with its water load weights over 70Ib-so a good support is a must) and fill it almost to the brim with tap water like so:

Last edited: Feb 4, 2015
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19. Feb 4, 2015

Abraham Leket

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DRW 21:Fuel tank back plate when the leakage test is passed- we cut (2) 5" holes on each side of the plate to enable us to spread Pro-Seal to the inner side of each fuel chamber when we close the tank completly and also to serve as access holes to fix future leaks in the chambers.
Note the fuel tank- to-main spar fittings-also receive their fair share of Pro-Seal.
The Pro-Seal proved to be the best sticking substance I've experienced- its truely worth its price.

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20. Feb 6, 2015

Abraham Leket

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Tank Back cover:
We start with a "dry-run" to make sure all holes are matched and once this is done we mark to back cover to orient our positioning- once ProSeal is applied you turned into a "half idiot" due to the pressure-so- mark the back cover so you would not sink it 180 wrong..
Next- apply tape around the tank to prevent ProSeal from oozing out the holes and make you and the tank-a mass.
Place the tank against strong light-and mark with a sharpie all holes – the tape will block all holes and you would not be able to cleco right.
Make sure you got enough Pro-Seal to completly Fay Seal the entire process. Clean the surfaces with MEK and... apply ProSeal !:devious:
Make sure not to starve the mating surfaces-use large dollops of seal – don’t be bashful- this stuff is good for you..
Sink the cover - you can use the (2) 5" holes to apply ProSeal to the inner side too.
I'm done!- my favourite NYU T shirt got few "black-death" spots- a small price that has to be paid to the ProSeal Gods.