FRED #528 construction log

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  1. May 10, 2014 #101

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

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    Elevetor trim (Cont): This picture is for the back seat mix bar and its welded spring tab and spring (as mentioned this spring gives the permanent down trim-to overcome by the front spring when up trim is selected).
    The final spring force selection- both front and back -will be determined once all control system and flying surfaces are installed.

    f P1010443.jpg rong.
     
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  2. May 10, 2014 #102

    Abraham Leket

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    The work is concentrated around the inner fittings and control systems to set the aircraft for outer ply skin job that will block most of the current easy access to the inner fuselage structure.
    The front and back of the harness system- note the back is connected with 18G 4130 strips to F6 fitting as the plan calls. The plan depicts more than 40" shoulder strap- history.. today its wider by an inch but short to a modest 25" in lenght so the connection to F6 is much longer-but the concept is the same.
    The pictures depicts front and back setting:

    P1010441.jpg

    The shoulder fittings are rolled back into the back compartment and connected each to a 18G 4130 strip that leads to the bottom F6 fitting and connected with its 1/4" bolt.

    P1010445.jpg
    The F6 fitting is a mutual anchor point for both the lap and the shoulder harness fittings-
    its a mighty piece of steel with its (6) 1/4" steel bolts.
    P1010446.jpg
     

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    Last edited: May 10, 2014
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  3. May 10, 2014 #103

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

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    Foot rests If you're more than 180 Lb and you use legs power to lift yourself out of the tight cockpit -I suggest you use 1/2" pine + 1/16" cross web ply to construct the rests. My fitting is (for each wood rest): 18G 4130 tang with (3) AN 3/16" at the back (where all the pressure is applied) and (2) wood screws at the front just to set the wooden rest straight. The plan calls for (4) wood screws all together..:para: I dont know...judge for yourself:
    P1010444.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2014
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  4. May 15, 2014 #104

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

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    Aileron cable: The only way to attach the aileron cable to the stick and through its fuselage pulley is now-before applying the outer 3/32" ply skin. I would go as far as saying that its impossible to do this task once outer ply is attached (unless you are a fully nimble qualified acrobat)- the issue here is access. With the side fuselage exposed it’s a 10 minutes task. The cable length is pre-cut to around 55" from the stick aileron bar to the future turnbuckle ( above the fuselage).
    Note all 1/4" bolts carry AN970 (contact with wood) +AN960 (contact with metal) washers to fit the shank. They can be trimmed to fit- in tight spots.
    P1010454.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2014
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  5. May 15, 2014 #105

    Abraham Leket

    Abraham Leket

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    Elevator tubes and mixers: Same treatment as above- all task is done before outer skin is attached - you will be able to connect all castle nuts and cutter pins much easier then "dive" into a 24" cockpit -if you in a hurry to apply outer skin to early..:emb:
    I'm even cosidering do the outer skin as the last task in the building process.
    Note bottom middle picture the back elevator crank pivot pin is brazed with 2 large washers and drilled for 3 wood screws for safty (see DRW17 "Pivot attachment plate" ).
    Also note 1/4" 4130 steel tab TIG welded to the elevator rear tube (in both sides)- your life depends on the quality of these particular welds so do it right with plenty of filler.
    All other fittings are AN quality with castle nuts and cutter pins as FAA 43-13 instructs.
    Word of advice-in control system use AN quality bolts and nuts- the market is flooded with cheap Far East AN "look-alike" that can cost you dearly. For $100 total FRED bolt need-get the real deal in Wicks or AS.
    P1010457.jpg
    .



    P1010458.jpg P1010448.jpg
    P1010456.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2014
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  6. May 16, 2014 #106

    Abraham Leket

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    Camber adjustment: The only tool to adjust the landing gear 10 degrees camber adjustmet is through the adjustment of the shock absorber total length.
    Before cutting tube Y that connects the shock leg to the axel plate- we costruct a simple jig made out of wood to simulate the shock absorber total length and we measure the right length needed to get that 10 degrees camber when the fuselage is at 0 (leveled to the ground)- good starting point.
    Note that nothing is drilled (upper bracket mainly)- once we will get the right camber we will construct Y tube and then made a "dry" run before drilling the upper shock/cabane bracket (middle picture attached at this point with a clamp to the fuselage).
    (to be cont.)
    P1010459.jpg P1010461.jpg P1010460.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2014
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  7. May 17, 2014 #107

    Abraham Leket

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    DRW10-F3 cabane fitting and shock absorber installment the fittings F3 are connected to the metal cross bar DRW4 by (4) 1/4" bolts. We first braze 2 metal tabs on the cross bar - they will later serve as the anchor points for the instrument panel. It is wise to braze 2 nuts on the opposite side such that the instrument panel will require only 2 quick bolt extraction without nuts and washers in the opposite side.
    P1010464.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2014
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  8. May 17, 2014 #108

    Abraham Leket

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    The exact location of drilling the 4 holes for DRW10 F3's is achieved with the wooden jig we constructed to get that 10 degrees camber (see attached thumbnail).
    It is clear now that a universal joint will be needed for the bottom connection of the shock leg to the axel plate- the caster angel of the main gear calls for it and we are going to construct one in the near future.
    Meanwhile we install F3's (port and starboard) in the process we let the cross bar bend the upper fuselage slightly- all will yield in a few days and pressures will conform the longerons.
    Note brazed washers on F3 for extra strength shock pivot point.
    note 3/32" ply filler under the fitting to simulate the outer skin.
    P1010463.jpg P1010462.jpg
     

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    Last edited: May 17, 2014
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  9. May 21, 2014 #109

    Abraham Leket

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    DRW10-Engine mount & cabane fitting cutting and boring the F1 raw material- 1/8" 4130 steel sheet took me about 3 man hours- it takes time to fit all (4) F1's shape and 1/4" holes (plus (1) 5/16" engine bracket hole). There should be 2 sets of 2 identical metal fittings. After filling the channels in the 1/4" ply firewall the fittings are locked with 3/32" ply scrap underneath to simulate the outer skin.
    P1010465.jpg
     
  10. May 23, 2014 #110

    Abraham Leket

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    DRW18-Stabilizer Fittings: Now is the time to connect the tail section and test our stick assembly for harmony and made the final adjustment to the elevator/stick tubes .The stab fittings are first connected to their 1/4" lock pins and the assemblies are tested against the stab main and rear spares for a tight fit without play and with just a 1/8" gap to the fuselage. Another major point is to keep the stab front spar tight against the 3 degrees 3/4" spruce bar and varify that the whole stab assembly is straight in relation to the fuselage center datum. We insert the lock pins and check all of the above (see picture 1).
    Once we are satisfied with the fit and with the alignment- we disassemble the stab , drill the fittings first, assemble the stab again with the lock pins and copy with a Sharpie the fitting's holes onto the stab spares . The assembly accept (8) 1/4" bolts and AN970 large washers (large picure 2).

    P1010468.jpg
    P1010466.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2014
  11. Jun 4, 2014 #111

    Abraham Leket

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    DRW5- Top Decking Fairing- I've seen some FREDs without it- in my opinion it’s a **** shame to leave this old school favorite item out , besides- it servers well to smooth the turbulent flow from the cockpit to the rudder fin and its been done in many WW1 and later open cockpit types. This fairing is a 5 piece construction seen here – takes about a week to accomplish since each and every part has to be completely dry before the next item is added.
    It is wise to cut a 6"x3" opening (fron the cargo compartment to the fairing bottom ) to enable tools to rotate bolts on theTransiver aerial base installment on top of the fairing-later on (see picture #3).
    Make sure you got the right 1/32"ply web direction in each and every sheet- even a 1/32" resists bending when its done against the web direction.
    The final product enhances FRED- judge for yourself this step-by-step construction :
    P1010472.jpg P1010473.jpg P1010475.jpg P1010478.jpg P1010480.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2014
  12. Jun 13, 2014 #112

    Abraham Leket

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    DRW11-Modified "A" frame & Universal Joint: The "A" frame is called modified when its tilted 1" forward . In my opinion it comes naturally tilted since the frame forward bracket is converging at the point of intersection with the fuselage longeron- and that calls for a Universal Joint to compensate the gap between the shock leg and the axel datum ( created by that tilt).The picture gives the whole view- and a step by step construction will follow.
    P1010488.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2014
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  13. Jun 13, 2014 #113

    Abraham Leket

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    P1010490.jpg P1010489.jpg P1010488.jpg P1010487.jpg P1010486.jpg P1010485.jpg P1010484.jpg P1010483.jpg P1010491.jpg
    Picture (bottom)
    the universal joint female section starts with a solid 3/4" 4130 plug – drilled 1/4" .
    Picture (attachment thumbnail): 4130 16G metal sidings are welded to the plug.
    Picture (row 3 middle): DRW11-"Y" fitting is constructed from 3/4" 4130 tube and a 1/4" 4130 base is welded to it and drilled in the middle . The base is taped (or weld steel nut -as picture) to accept 10mm bolt.
    Picture (row 3 left): "Y" fitting is connected to the bottom shock leg. I've chosen outer connection rather than the inner insertion -as DRW11 suggests.
    Picture (row 2 right) : Universal joint male section is a 10mm steel bolt (or any 3/8"-1/2" bolt) with 4140 16G steel sidings welded to it.
    Picture (row 2 middle) : Male-to Female connected and we got a complete universal joint with an extra feature: we can dial/adjust the Camber by twisting the universal joint male bolt in and out of the"Y" fitting.
    Picture ( row 3 right) - best describes the universal joint and its function.
    Top Pictures - the whole assembly connected and ready to accept the wheel&break assembly.
    Sorry for the mass- just could not handel the overall postings positioning- but you get the picture..:gig:. P1010481.jpg
     

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    Last edited: Jun 13, 2014
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  14. Jun 18, 2014 #114

    Abraham Leket

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    DRW20-Top Ply cover: a single sheet 3/32" ply is cut and a rudder pedal inspection access 9"x6" is formed inside. The half moon shape cutout is for locking the left palm fingers on the throttle lever and inside that recess during full power takeoff ( prevents throttle retreat due to vibration or backfires-an old trick from ww2 high powered piston engine).
    P1010493.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2014
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  15. Jun 20, 2014 #115

    Abraham Leket

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    Drum Breaking system- The practice is to purchase a pedal set from Azusa –press with the heel while the toe is pressing the rudder pedal simultaneously. The pedals are close enough to press with either leg in the middle during run up's and stops. A little welding for the base of 2 pieces of metal bushings to serve as hinges plus 2 cable brackets from scarp metal- a $11 solution to the FRED cost conscious builder!
    BTW- I've seen all them $800 and up disk breaks & hydraulics sets- just right for a hot F18 night landing on wet Nimitz…:shock:.
    P1010502.jpg
    P1010503.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2014
  16. Jun 23, 2014 #116

    Abraham Leket

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    DRW10 F2 Fitting- What was considered to be a quick task turned to be a somewhat tricky job to perform-and bottom picture best describes the issue at hand- the inner F2 fittings in both sides cannot get low enough to accept the outer F2 bolts since the bottom 3/4" spruce interferes and needs to be slotted to allow the inner fitting to sink . Alas- no access to do this simple job- this had to be performed way back when it was glued to the firewall.
    A very fine file was used through the firewall pre-slot to clear the problem - but this took an hour since the file is very fine one- blisters followed.. .
    P1010504.jpg


    P1010505.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2014
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  17. Jul 5, 2014 #117

    Abraham Leket

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    Front Upper Members : The members needs to be biffed up by (2) 1/4" ply both sides to enable the outer ply skin to glue and still leave enough member strip area for the middle Aluminum hatch to rest while closing.
    The biffing up is carried even further in the member right in front of the instrument panel and a 1/32" glue strip is glued to that member to enable easy adjustment of the instrument fairing later on.
    Important points to remember- make (2) large holes for insrting hands&tools and 2 seperate exit holes (each member side) seperate for electric wiring and seperate for fuel lines- all for safety reasons.
    Make the fuel lines exit holes close as possible to the wing front cabane strut.

    P1010506.jpg P1010508.jpg P1010520.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2014
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  18. Jul 5, 2014 #118

    Abraham Leket

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    Mazel Tov ! - wing construction::ban: Took me 9 month to completly finish the fuselage and tail (both stabs and elevator & rudder) ,wheels and controls and all of the fittings associated with it and we are now entering the Semi final round -with FRED's wing construction.

    Jig Construction
    : We start by ink/pen drawing the GOTT525 wing profile onto ORACAL Plotterfolie 631 paper backing (see picure 1 and check Google for the item) - or something equivalent that will give you a nice sticky PVC foil/decal to press against a flat 1/2" wood board (will be refered from now as Jig Board) and leave you the original ink drawing (the white paper decal backing) as an extra copy -for later applications (picture 2) .
    After sticking the colored decal to the jig (picture1) we seal the board & decal with broad 3M clear tape strips to enable us to safely glue profile members and gussets on the jig -without glue spillovers problems.
    The line of the outer profile circumference is bracketed by headless nails- the wing profile 1/4" x 1/2" spruce members will go inside that line (see thumbnail picture). (To be continue)
    P1010517.jpg P1010518.jpg
     

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    Last edited: Jul 5, 2014
  19. Jul 7, 2014 #119

    Abraham Leket

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    Jig construction (Cont.)- bottom frame: we now collect all the 1/4" ply leftovers to cut ply gussters that will follow the bottom GOTT525 "roller coaster" line and leave 1/4" between the headless nails and each jig gusset. The profile extra paper copy comes in handy now to trace the fine contour bottom sections by copy it to the jig gussets and shape them accordingly.
    When possile- any jig gusset can also support any of its adjacent diagonal- depends if you have enough 1/4" material to accomplish it.
    To glue proof-all jig gussets were covered inside and out with 3M clear tape before attaching them with nails to the jig board (to be continue).
    P1010522.jpg P1010521.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2014
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  20. Jul 8, 2014 #120

    Abraham Leket

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    Jig construction (Cont.)- upper frame: Same as lower frame-but much easier since the profile line is rather straight.
    The inner gussets that support the diagonals are small and also straight- I would say that we consumed a large portion of the 1/4" ply leftovers- and we are ready now to construct the 3 wing mid-section profils using the jig-it will be our jig break-in before the big show with the 2 dozen wing profiles.
    The picture depicts a complete GOTT525 FRED's jig board all glue proof and ready to assume resposibility...
    P1010523.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2014

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