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UC Dave

Active Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2015
Messages
29
Location
Wichita KS
Well I have been out of the game for a while. Partially due to general life duty. The rest of the time was dedicated to a used truck that had to be purchased to replace my old truck that was totaled in a accident I was in about 2 months ago.
So much about life... I built the instrument panel cover. It took a couple attempts before it was correct. Last night I worked on the fuel tank cover, but it needs more work before it is installed. Pics will follow later.
 

UC Dave

Active Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2015
Messages
29
Location
Wichita KS
I have been sitting on my hands for a bit before I start riveting the airframe. I have been going over the plans to make sure I have not forgotten something. While in this waiting and studying state I have been in contact with a friend, Dennis from the Ultracruiser Yahoo group, he has built and has over 800 hours in his Ultracruiser. Dennis has begun building a H5 and is dimpling the skins, instead of dome forming the rivets. I have seen this done on a UC and the 2015 Hummel gathering, it was the same plane that took Ultralight Grand Champion 2015, and have decided to do the same for my plane. So a few more tools are needed. I bought a rivet squeezer and some dimpling dies. I also needed a C Frame rivet to do the wing and airframe panels. I looked around for one that had a 24 inch or longer throat. I certainly could not find one locally, so I decided to build one. I gathered some 1x2 stock about 4 feet and 36 inches of 4 inch channel it has 1/4 wall. I also bought some 1x1/2 stock for the plate on top of the channel. I used a air hammer chisel bit for the upper tool. That chisel had to be detempered so it could be drilled to accept the dimple and rivet dies, 3/16. I used my lathe and tail stock chuck to drill the hole in the end of the chisel bit. The rest was cutting and welding. I also welded a small tube on the side of the top arm, it is to hold the allen wrench for the stop collar. When It was all done I have a C Frame with a 34 inch throat for about 50 dollars.

 

UC Dave

Active Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2015
Messages
29
Location
Wichita KS
I cut out and installed the top doubler for th bulkhead "A". It gave me a chance to use some of my new tools. I am very happy with the results and glad I went with the dimpled rivet way. I used the rivet squeezer for the bulkhead and the C Frame Rivet Tool for the doubler. They both worked as they should. Here are the pics.





... and the air frame as it is today. Pic taken before the dimpled rivets.

 

UC Dave

Active Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2015
Messages
29
Location
Wichita KS
It has been a while since I have had a chance to work on the UC. You know life got in it the way.
I do have some work to post so here it is .
I built the vertical stabilizer spar and doublers. I also built the rudder hinges and doublers. I have solid riveted the spar to bulkhead "F", I also solid riveted the nut plates for the hinges . The rudder hinges received bushings too.



I built both top and bottom vertical stabilizer ribs. Just the picture of the top one to show.



When building the vertical spar I drilled in the wrong place. So instead of building a forward spar from .016 I cut the spar with the hole in the wrong place and used it. Now my forward spar is .020. I finished riveting the spar doublers also.



Here she is today.

 

UC Dave

Active Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2015
Messages
29
Location
Wichita KS
I went to my hanger today not to build, but to clean. I made a huge mess yesterday and had to clean off my benches. After I put the tools away and took out the trash I decided to get a little bit done, rather than waste a trip. I gathered some poster board stock last week from Walmart. I taped 3 of them together, I cannot seem to find any stock that is over 28"x22". So i took it over to the Stabilizer spar and attempted to fit it. I managed to get half marked from the inside but could not get the other, so I cut the stock at the centerline of the ribs. I then made a copy of the piece that was cut and tapped them together. I placed it on the spar and it fit great.

 

UC Dave

Active Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2015
Messages
29
Location
Wichita KS
I took the pattern off of the tail and transfered it on a sheet of .016 aluminum. I did this with about an extra inch on each side. Then cut it from the aluminum and located the center line. I then tapped the sides, prepping for the bend.





I then spread 4 mill plastic on a 4x8 table. The plastic was folded in half and two sides were tapped together with duck tape. I put the stabilizer blank in the, now plastic bag. Then placed the hose, from a small shop vacuum, next to the end of the blank. I wrapped the open end around the hose and used a zip tie to secure the open end. Then simply turned on the vacuum and it did the rest.



The result out side of the bag. The center line is right down the new radius.



Then set it on the tail to mark for final trim.

 

UC Dave

Active Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2015
Messages
29
Location
Wichita KS
I have built the dorsal fin. It was a bit tough to get right. This did not come in the plans or templates, just like the vertical fin. I would had to have made a poster board template but, I went to the Hummel gathering and Terry, the owner let me copy a a part from the kit and that gave me the template. The only difference is the notch in the back for the vertical fin. When I vacuumed formed the vertical fin, the leading edge is a little sharper than the template. I used a piece of poster board and copied the top leading edge of the vertical fin, then transfered it on to the template. The top of the dorsal fin was formed with a break and the top near the vertical fin was relieved a bit so that area was not as sharp as the point at the fuselage. The flanges at the bottom of the dorsal were formed with a Bob Stick.



 
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