Single Seat Super Cub

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Also starting to move things around in the hanger ( might have to leave my auto outside for a few days), so I can temporary put the wings in position on the fuselage so I can locate the main spar carry thru in the cabin section of the fuselage. Don't want to measure 3 times and still get it wrong.

 

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Neighbor came over and helped me lift the wings up on the fuselage. Have the rear spar carry thru installed in the cabin section and now need to get the position for the main spar carry thru. Will be doing a lot of measuring and using the digital level to get everything correct. Was able to get the car back in with a little room to spare.

 

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Everything getting very close.
After getting the spar carry thru in the correct position in the cabin section, then finish the top 1/8" plywood sheeting. Then the 1/8" plywood on the sides of the fuselage and finish the fin.

 

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On the first fuselage I used the baggage shelf behind the seat for my camping pillow, foam pad and sleeping bag, all light weight stuff.
It also had a box built between the rear of the instrument panel to the rear of the firewall. It measures 9"x 12"x 23". Have a small door on the right side and I could get my light weight tent, extra clothes , etc. Also has a pouch on the rear of the seat back and on the floor behind the seat I have a small box for extra Qt of oil, paper towels, tools, etc. Still extra room under the seat and also the seat cushion has a zipper and you could put extra underware, etc, in the cushion. Lots of storage for such a small airplane.
Also the space for the forward baggage area could be used as another fuel tank area with room for 4=5 gal of extra fuel, but with over 16 gal in the wings and a fuel burn of 3 gph, I would rather use it for the baggage. 3-4 hrs between stops is OK for me.
Small baggage door in picture.
I need to build the forward baggage box before installing the plywood sides.

 

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Drilled bolt holes to mount the rudder pedals before installing the plywood sides. Also made cardboard patterns for the plywood floor of the storage box. Tomorrow I'll epoxy the plywood for the box and drill the bolt holes for the stick assembly. I'll repaint all the hardware before installing for the last time.

 

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Starting to epoxy on the 1/8" X 5 ply plywood fuselage sides on. Took 4-- 3' bar clamps, 4- straps , and about 30 + C-clamps.

C-clamped the plywood in position. Drilled a 1/16 hole thru the plywood only on the 4 corners. Drove 3/4" long aircraft nails about 1/2 the way in thru the holes. Clipped the heads off the nails. That makes position pins so when I get the epoxy spread and slide the plywood back on over the locating pins and clamp without the plywood wanting to slid out of position.

 

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Need to build the fin, have most of the ribs made, also remove the 4130 steel tube from the fuselage to the main spar carry thru and epoxy prime and varnish the wood at the attach areas and reinstall and then install the plywood over the instrument panel to the firewall on each side. I'll be using the flip up windows and fold down door from the old fuselage. Same for all the tail surfaces. Need to install an inspection on each side of the rear of the fuselage to inspect the bottom elevator horn and drill holes for the tail wheel spring mount.

 

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Made the seat mount and installed the fold down door.
The last owner installed 600x 6" aircraft tires on the wheels. Heavy, I order a set of 800x6" ATV tires that I used before and I'll let you know how much weight it saves.
Summit Racing--- $ 56.99 each and free shipping.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crr-508040

 

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Surprised, surprised. I thought I would save a couple of lbs going to the 800x6 ATV tires , no, gained 1 lb and 8 ozs each. I had these size tires on before I sold it and they were much better on our grass and clay runway when water soaked. Clay gets like muck. You get a lot of muckly mud under the wings from the wheels.
Now how do I save the 3 lbs? Guess I will have to layoff the homemade strawberry ice cream for a while. Darn-- I hate being on the wagon.

 

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Did someone ask what paint scheme I plan on using after covering ?
As close to what is was as I can make it.

 

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Now I need to round up some help to take the wings off and start varnishing the fuselage.
There is 2 -- 8.3 gal wing fuel tanks for a total of 16.6 gal. At first I had 2-- 4 gal wing tanks and that wasn't enough to go much of anywhere without thinking about fuel. So I built a extra 4 gal fiberglass tank to go behind the seat back for extra range. Then I decided to build 2 new wings with the 8.3 gal in each wing and stress for the extra fuel weight and take the behind the seat tank out. So, no problem with the weight of adding the 4 gal tank back behind the seat with the 16. 6 gal wing tanks for a total of 20.6 gallon (if I want), while burning 3 gph. Thinking of adding a range extension pee tube out the bottom of the tail before covering while it would be easy for the old man.
So much to think about

 

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Using a flywheel drive VW engine and my homemade mag drive on the pulley end I knew the engine was going to be longer than the prop hub on the pulley end and the mag on the flywheel end. How much longer, I didn't know. I was hoping I would have clearance between the mag and the firewall. I did some measuring today and it looks like its going to work out OK. The flywheel drive engine is 3" longer than the pulley drive engine. The 4130 steel engine mount was made to the length I needed for the CG to come out where I wanted. The engine mount needed to be 10" long. Now with the new fuselage the engine mount may need to be a little different but I have 7" of room to move the engine to the rear if needed. Since the new fuselage is made from Douglas Fir instead of Spruce, I expect it to be a little heavier. Same wings, tail surfaces, LG and all hardware. We shall see.

 

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Picture of the finished fin. Now to repaint all the hardware with Poly-Fiber Epoxy primer and start varnishing the fuselage. Dallas Shell will be here a couple days this week and 2 neighbors said they will help with removing the wings. So will be an easy, quick job for 4 of us old men.

 

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Wings off and all the hardware and LG unbolted, have the fuselage on saw horses and getting ready to varnish the fuselage. Ordered and recieved new engine bearing so when I replace the crank because of the prop strike I'll install all new bearings since I have the engine apart.

 

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Varnishing, Varnishing, Varnishing. Did I tell you I don't like Varnishing. Be nice to just take it some where and dip it.

 

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Have the inside of the cabin section varnish enough to install the 4130 tubes inverted "V" from the top longerons to the wing spar straps in the top of the cabin. Re-painted about 1/2 of all the hardware a couple days ago with the Poly-Fiber epoxy primer. After install the 4130 tubes I was able to finish the plywood over the nose section. That is the last of any wood construction. Everything else is varnishing, covering and painting.

 

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Finally finished the varnishing. Did I say, I don't like varnishing ?. Lots of varnishing in the geodetic construction.

Added pictures of the varnished fuselage. I always enjoy the covering and painting process. Will not need to recover the ailerons, rudder, stab and elevator.

 

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Went through all of my leftover fabric supply's and have enough fabric to do the fuselage and enough of all materials needed except for glue and fabric for the wings.

Neighbor helped me turn the fuselage over to start on the bottom.

 

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Got the bottom covered. Did a 18" square test panel to test the Stewart glue. To me the Poly-Fiber glue does a better job, so I used it. I can open the patio door and the garage door on the other side of the hanger and get a good airflow and work up airflow, so the mek and the smell is not an issue. I also always wear gloves. Now to get my neighbor help me roll it over on a side so I can cover the top side.
I'll be covering the plywood with other pieces of fabric. All the fabric for fuselage is leftover fabric from other builds.

 

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1/2 of fuselage done with pinking tape. Now need to turn over on the saw horses to do the other side and top.
The top of a plastic tote makes a good tray for your cover supplys .