It do not have such an option. Only hand placement.I have downloaded a trial and can't see any way to cut tapered sections inside each other to save foam.Any tips?
It do not have such an option. Only hand placement.I have downloaded a trial and can't see any way to cut tapered sections inside each other to save foam.Any tips?
Kids have to learn responsibility. But i am really happy how nice and easy it is done..Somebody is going to be very happy with that. And no rust!
Maybe consider covering the edges (front edge only?) with some plastic comb/edge trim or small diameter vinyl tubing with a slit, then glued on. We all know how kids are--somebody's head (or "somebody's" sister's head) is going to make contact with that edge.
Looks great.
Ordinary PE foil, 200 mil thick from local warehouse. Happy with results. Any imperfections was sanded down using few moves of 200 grid paper.what 'foil' did you use? Looks like a roll of plastic film.
Same with PU foam. Glad that someone is reading all this !quick reminder: PVC products release toxic fumes when hot wired. good ventilation is essential.
Trying to keep up....Glad that someone is reading all this !
Very nice. What have you got in mind as a way to fabricate those ribs?PVC foam rib with ud carbon caps caps VS corrugated cf rib. . . .
, corrugation were 0.2", spaced each 2". __--__-- , from 180 gsm cf.
It is. Molds done from eps - using piece left from main mold making if kerf is ok. Or done from new piece. Essential part - ribs molded and glued in one piece. Or you are gaining too much extra glue..2) Make individual molds for each rib, layup cf in the molds (lots of labor, still need to trim)
So, maybe (before I see your idea and get disgusted with mine):Vigilant1 said:It is. Molds done from eps - using piece left from main mold making if kerf is ok. Or done from new piece. Essential part - ribs molded and glued in one piece. Or you are gaining too much extra glue...2) Make individual molds for each rib, layup cf in the molds (lots of labor, still need to trim)
Will make a drawing of this idea. Just got some flue. Or Covid![]()
It would be a shame if some acetone hit that EPS left behind and you ensured a path for the resultant liquid mess were made to ensure it dripped out...So, maybe (before I see your idea and get disgusted with mine):
1) Get a big sheet of 2" thick EPS. Cut the undulations with a hotwire splitting the thickness of the whole thing. Keep both halves together.
2) Cut out your rib outlines in this panel. If it is practical to make joining flanges on these corrugated ribs (the have sufficient straight sections), cut the forms undersize so the ribs will be the right height including the folded over flanges.
3) Somehow wet out the CF cloth on a plastic film, slurp up extra resin, place it in each undulating rib mold, with the mating EPS piece on top, fold the CF over one side of the EPS mold to form flanges on the the straight sections. While still wet, place the ribs and mold into the waiting wing skin portion (with peel ply recently removed at rib join locations. Straps, female skin mold, or bag pressure to press skin to ribs until everything is cured.
Details are left as an exercise for the reader. It may be a good idea to retain the services of a small, smart monkey to remove the EPS molds from inside the wing after the ribs cure. Or, use a stick to reach in and coat the EPS with peanut butter, leave it in the back yard and let the squirrels remove the EPS. Or, maybe just devise a way to coax it out using a Weed wacker ("string trimmer') and a shop vac. Details....
Thinking about this a little, Option 1 is starting to look better. Can a router with appropriate cutters cut a CF sheet like this if held in an EPS mold? Would the CF edge be a frayed, debonded mess, or okay?