If you want to ditch the alternator there are these. Up to 22 watt each.
TEGpro Products (tegmart.com)
TEGpro Products (tegmart.com)
I have a basic lathe. To match and cut a taper like the B&S flywheel, I chuck the taper I want to copy (crankshaft or locking bushing) in the lathe and run a dial indicator aligned with the centerline of its taper. I carefully rotate the cross slide until the indicator stays zeroed along the length of the taper, then tighten the cross slide, re-check, and then replace the indicator with a boring bar. (Be sure to lock the carriage) Then I place the new part in the chuck (pre drilled with a suitable sized hole), and take small cuts and make slow, even passes until the OD of the large end gets close to the OD of the matching part. Do a trial fit between tiny cuts from that point to work up to the correct fit. Use valve lapping compound to finish the job. You can watch the lapping process on the ARC Racing youtube video "Installing an ARC racing flywheel." The process is remarkably quick. Hope that helps. BTW, if you get the taper right, you won't need a keyway. (More info on that in the ARC Racing video.)That looks like an auto transmission flexplate. What's the source of those parts (flexplate and crank adapter)? Is the ring gear stock size? I've never cut a taper on my lathe but I think that I can get it done if necessary.
It's great, thanks for sharing. If desired, you could start a project thread to keep your ongoing efforts in one place, undisturbed by others chiming in (and/or could start a matching Q&Q thread so the peanut gallery can chime in).I keep learning details about the Big Block 993. I hope it's OK to share here as I identify important details.
There will be wide interest in your project. There's a lot of fun flying to be done on 30-40 HP. Some folks don't want a 2-stroke, others, for whatever reason, don't want a 1/2 VW. Your direct drive B&S 993cc conversion and TiPi's B&S 810cc "heads down" conversion can show builders other options. Even if your project is strictly for your own plane (so no special effort to use widely available parts, no intent to sell needed parts etc), just posting about your decisions and how you put things together will save someone else a lot of work.I think you are correct that I should start a project thread.
I put the scales under my engine bits (finally), the complete engine weighs about 37.5kg and the long block (block with all external bits removed) is about 20kg. The full list of all parts and weights is here: B&S 49-series (810cm3/49ci) - TiPi's conversion for aircraft useBriggs and Stratton 993 Big Block - 61E377-0027 with tapered crank.
Thanks for posting this info, I was searching for exactly that!Starter ring gear: OD = 246mm, no of teeth = 114
The alu ring gear (ARC) is identical in dia and no of teeth
The flywheel taper is 36mm high, small ID = 24.8mm, large ID = 30.5mm
The hub adaptor that I have (ARC?) is 38mm tall, with only slightly different ID's
View attachment 121415
View attachment 121416 View attachment 121417
The "flywheel" is still work in progress as I need my new lathe to finish the hub and disc to accept the ignition magnet and alternator magnets.
Model 38 Vanguard: oil, elec start, stock flywheel, no pull start, stock Nikki carb= 79.05 pounds. basic exhaust (lightweight custom with muffler) = 3.9 pounds. Ace Redrive or equivalent = 10 pounds, 3 blade ultraprop II @ 62" dia = 7.83 pounds. That's 100.7 lbs. Remove all the shrouding and fan, and the engine in the same config weighs 72.75 without exhaust. So, there are your actual scale weighed 627 numbers. Ready to fly. Switch the stock flywheel to an ARC aluminum version (6.5 pounds) and you save an additional 8 pounds. Bottom line: 100.7, 94.48, or 86.48 pounds ready to fly the plane. Note, the UP II is one of the heavier props available, but it, and the standard UP are two of the most efficient for low HP thrust output. That said, there's a couple of pounds you can lose there, and two more if you wear ear plugs and run straight pipes. I'd strongly suggest a muffler for the sake of the future of experimental aviation.So the 993 (68.6 lbs) is 24.6 lbs heavier than the 810 (44 lbs). So we have 2 choices for v-twins where we have verified long block weights and some pretty good guesses on the 627 ready-to-fly.
ProfJ,Has anyone considered turbo normalizing a B&S? There are lots of small “coke can” turbos now, from both reputable manufacturers and China. Seems like it might be a way to get the extra 10 hp at moderate weight. Also my closest runway is at 9000 ft so this would make a huge difference for me, tired of driving two hours downhill to fly…
Bare Engine | 68.6 |
Carbs-VM32 (1.6 x 2) | 3.2 |
Exhaust (1.3 x 2) | 2.6 |
Oil (2.4 qts) | 5 |
Ignition- 2 coils, 2 HEI, 4 pickups, 2 switches | 3.5 |
Prop Flange | 2.8 |
Remove Governor | -0.73 |
Crankshaft Taper to 1-7/16” adapter | 1.1 |
Camshaft Weight Loss | -0.43 |
| |
Total Engine Weight | 85.64 |
| |
| |
Stock Cam | 3.07 |
DynoCam | 2.64 |
Difference | -0.43 |
Governor | -0.73 |
Weight Lost | -1.16 |
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