Gearbox oil , pre-mix oil for ROTAX 503UL

Discussion in '2-Stroke Aircaft Engines' started by Tuneturkey, Aug 9, 2019.

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  1. Aug 9, 2019 #1

    Tuneturkey

    Tuneturkey

    Tuneturkey

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    Came across a ROTAX 503UL w/DUCATI ignition that has never been run, probably bought just before the 503 was discontinued. Unfortunately, no operating instructions.
    1. Can anyone tell me what type/manuf oil should be put in the gearbox. Also, what is the recommended oil to mix with the gasoline.
    2. What steps should be followed in starting it for the first time?
    Thanks,
    Tuneturkey
     
  2. Aug 10, 2019 #2

    n3puppy

    n3puppy

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  3. Aug 10, 2019 #3

    radfordc

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  4. Aug 11, 2019 #4

    Armilite

    Armilite

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    Came across a ROTAX 503UL w/DUCATI ignition that has never been run, probably bought just before the 503 was discontinued. Unfortunately, no operating instructions.
    1. Can anyone tell me what type/manuf oil should be put in the gearbox. Also, what is the recommended oil to mix with the gasoline.
    2. What steps should be followed in starting it for the first time?
    Thanks,
    Tuneturkey[/QUOTE]
    =============================================
    Which Gear Box, A, B, C, E? SAE 85W - 120.
    http://www.ultralightnews.ca/bdrive/bboxinstallation.pdf

    First Time running it, use 91+ Octane and Standard 2 Stroke Oil at 40:1 for the first 10 Hours of use, then go to 50:1 once it's broke in. Is it Oil Injected or Premix? Factory Oil Injection is set at 50:1. If you have Oil Injection I would use either Amsoil Interceptor, or Yamalube, or Castrol 2T Snowmobile Oil, what I have used for many years. Since I premix, I'm switching all my engines over to Amsoil Saber. I have been running it in my 1972 Skidoo 292 TNT Vintage Racer.

    If you Premix and want fewer Decarbons, less Smoke, less chance of Sticking Rings, less chance of fouled Spark Plugs, once broke in 10hrs, I would use either Hirths Blue Max Oil a Full Synthetic at 100:1 or Amsoil Saber another Full Synthetic at 100:1.

    If, you put it away for the Winter, or know it's not going to be used in a long time, switch back to Conventional 2 Stroke Oil for Storage on your last Tank.

    Amsoil Oil.jpg Castrol 2T Snowmobile Oil.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2019
  5. Aug 11, 2019 #5

    Armilite

    Armilite

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  6. Aug 12, 2019 #6

    n3puppy

    n3puppy

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    Armilite -
    Can you post your sources for saying Hirth Blue Max oil is Full Synthetic??
    Everything I find says Blue Max is petroleum based.

    That would mean it doesn't suffer from the bad stuff associated with synthetics. I assume your recommendation to switch to regular oil before storage is a reference to the low corrosion protection of synthetics.

    If Blue Max is not synthetic, it would solve that particular problem.

    From their literature
    "100% mineral based, none of the unfavorable attributes of synthetic oil, no solvents added as in 50:1 oils"

    From the Blue Max SDS (Safety Data Sheet)
    Section 3: Composition/Information on Ingredients

    Component CASRN Concentration
    Lubricant Base Oil (Petroleum) 6472-54-7 >50
    Petroleum Distillate, 6472-88-7 <13
    Light Additives - not hazardous proprietary >37

    All concentrations shown are by weight. 95899B9D-718E-4FF5-8373-B91D28162537.jpeg D5902C00-6579-4C1A-A26E-CFBABCF72D14.jpeg
     
  7. Aug 14, 2019 #7

    Armilite

    Armilite

    Armilite

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    ==============================

    When I wrote Hirth many Years ago, about running it at 100:1, the guy said it was a Full Synthetic. Only Your High-End Oils can be used at 100:1 and are either Full Synthetic or Mineral Oil-based. Hirth doesn't make Oil, they source it from someone, Amsoil does. I never looked into who makes Hirths Oil for them.

    Only these three have the same Flash Point.
    Red Line All Sport 230°F
    Motorex Cross Power 2T 230°F
    Hirth Blue Max 230°F
     
  8. Aug 15, 2019 #8

    n3puppy

    n3puppy

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    With so much product being outsourced nowadays, it always a good idea to find the most current information. Luckily, in todays information age, that is very easy.

    A quick check of the Hirth information on their USA distributor's webpage let me know that Blue Max oil is 100% mineral based not Synthetic.
    http://www.recpower.com/bluemax.htm

    A check of their most current Safety Data Sheet, dated march 2014, indicates they changed over 5 years ago. You must have talked to someone before that.

    Good to know mineral oil based because given the alleged corrosion problems of synthetics, I personally would never run synthetic in my Cuyuna with plain iron bores because of wear. (Same for Rotax 503 etc)

    More modern designs using corrosion/wear resistant Nikasil bores, like Hirth,Simoni etc. are not as big a problem.

    By the way, the current supplier of the oil is
    Interlube International Inc.
    170, 3rd. Street,
    Blaine, WA 98230 FC88D4DE-C893-452D-B2AB-160DB4CEC520.jpeg
     
  9. Aug 16, 2019 #9

    Armilite

    Armilite

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    ==============================

    Most Companies Source Parts even Rotax, have for many years. Yes, it's important to know what you're using. The Bottle gives the Mixing Ratio. For 2 stroke Oils, it's more important to know the Flashpoint. Most modern-day Engines run either a Half or Full Synthetic Oil. Not everyone Winterizes or Stores their Plane for a long time. It's fine to use the Full Synthetic's, but if your going to Winterize it, run Conventional Oil your last time you're going to use it, or do as I do, just run it once a Month for 15min. I put both Staybil and Seafoam in the Gas if using Pump 91+.

    Amsoil Interceptor is a Good 50:1 Oil. One of the Oils Rotax Rick uses in his 670's.

    Many Products like Oil, Oil Filters, Air Filters, etc., are packaged under many different Names.
     

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