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  1. Jeff R

    Environmental issues with a wood airplane...

    Just a data point.... Though I stopped building on my wood airplane to instead build metal, I have kept some of the original wing ribs I built with spruce and T88. The rib has been either my hanger or workshop, both unconditioned and in central Florida, for about 5 years now with no signs of...
  2. Jeff R

    Scarfing and laminating wing spars

    It shouldn't make any difference at all. Properly prepared scarf joints, especially when part of a laminated beam, should be stronger than the wood, so orientation of the joints is simply a non-issue.
  3. Jeff R

    public lumber company

    Just to keep this thread up to date..... I made one more order of spruce from Public Lumber. I spent some time on the phone with Craig to explain my needs. This time, I ordered three, 1" by 8" by 7' pieces. He told me their 1-by material, this time, would be re-sawn from 2" material, which I...
  4. Jeff R

    Scarfing and laminating wing spars

    I have decided to take a dual approach. I will use certified spruce from ACS for the main wing spars, and either self-certified spruce from Public Lumber or self-certified Douglass Fir from some local area Home Depots for the rest of the structure. As the only fir I can get is 1-by material...
  5. Jeff R

    CASCOPHEN glue

    Isn't it basically a generic brand of Resorcinol? I purchased some from ACS last month, but haven't used it yet. I thought I might try it out on some wood laminations rather than use T88. No real reason to NOT use T88 other than I want to try out a different glue -- one that is not weakend by...
  6. Jeff R

    Environmental issues with a wood airplane...

    My own thoughts, and I certainly could be wrong, is that the main problem with humid areas is not that the air is humid per say, but that if you have liquid mositure inside the airplane, and if the atmosphere is humid, it will take longer for that moisture to evaporate. For example, a cup of...
  7. Jeff R

    Foam filled panels

    If the areas are around the cockpit, then I would add the foam for its insulation value, as well as add the drain holes. Maybe glue the foam to the outer plywood and then vent the inner portion. For areas where you would not need insulation, having foam would seem to simply be adding dead...
  8. Jeff R

    t-88 epoxy

    I got the advice for using acetone from a September 1, 2004 post by Orion, an aeronautical engineer who is an active poster (but I haven't seen much from him lately in this particular forum), regarding splices in wood. This is part of what he said: "Over the years, I've seen several failed...
  9. Jeff R

    public lumber company

    OK, here is a picture of two other pieces. One shows a knot, which was easy enough to cut around, but otherwise shows some nice wood. The number of growth rings, as you can see, is very high. I thinks this contributes to a higher density, maybe some higher strength, and I have heard makes the...
  10. Jeff R

    public lumber company

    I have attached (I hope) a picture of some of the wood I received from Public Lumber. This is one of the worst-looking boards I got. The board is about 2" wide, for reference, and shows a lot of waviness, especially towards the right. I would not want to use this piece for spar material...
  11. Jeff R

    t-88 epoxy

    I am using T88 in my Falconar F12. I second about the mixing by weight - it is 1:0.83. But, 1:1 by weight seems to work ok, as I did it for a while. I have a mixing chart on my web site for mixing small amounts. I have a small digital scale that measures to .1 grams, which is the smallest...
  12. Jeff R

    public lumber company

    This question has been asked before, and I discuss some of my dealings with them on my web site. I have ordered from Public Lumber three times - once I got very fast delivery, another time it took 3 weeks, and another time a more to-be-expected 10 days or so. The wood quality ranges from ok to...
  13. Jeff R

    Scarfing and laminating wing spars

    Thanks, Rob. That does make sense.
  14. Jeff R

    Scarfing and laminating wing spars

    Thanks, Rob. Your thinking aligns with mine. If I build the spar from 4 laminations, then the inner scarf joints will have glue not only in the scarf joint, but on either side as well, adding a lot of strength and stability to the joint. The outer laminations will have the extra glue on...
  15. Jeff R

    Scarfing and laminating wing spars

    Thanks for the contact. My original intent was to use certified, full length wood in the spars, and common sense would say do it that way, as I sure don't want to be falling out of the sky when my spar snaps wishing I had spent a few extra hundred dollars on wood. However, this is a...
  16. Jeff R

    Scarfing and laminating wing spars

    Another request for opinions.... The center spars for my F12A are a bit under 17' long. I know that laminating thin sections of spurce together to build up to the required thickness is acceptable, even encouraged for reasons that have been talked about elsewhere on this board. I have not...
  17. Jeff R

    Plywood gusset thicknesses

    My plans call for using 2 mm plywood gussets on each side of the uprights. I have Finnish birch plywood, GL-2, that measures 1.6 mm, and I have some basswood military plywood that measures at around 2.6 mm. Does anyone see any problem with using the birch on one side and the basswood on the...
  18. Jeff R

    Shopping for Spruce

    I, too, can vouch for the Public Lumber Company. I was a little leery about using them, but I placed a test-case order for two pieces of rough spruce 1" by 8" by 5 feet. I ordered on a Wednesday and the wood arrived in Florida via UPS ground the next Monday. I am in awe of the wood they...
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