What did you do on your airplane project today?

Discussion in 'Workshop Tips and Secrets / Tools' started by cdlwingnut, Sep 17, 2017.

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1. Sep 28, 2017

Monty

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I think it has poly-fiber on it, basically just a two part urethane that is very flexible. The parts I am painting are metal and fiberglass, so I'm just using compatible automotive stuff. Had them color match an inspection plate.

2. Sep 28, 2017

skier

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I've had the rudder kit for the Zenith CH-601 for a little more than 10 years.

I moved into a house this year and finally have some space to start building. 2 weeks ago I decided to start my project by building some of the EAA Chapter 1000 build tables. With that completed I opened up the Zenith box and laid out all the parts. I've opened the box a number of times and read through the instructions dozens of times, but never worked up the courage to make the first cut. Well, that changed this morning. I made 2 cuts with tin snips, drilled some holes with a small inexpensive battery operated drill, and installed a bunch of clecos. I'm on my way to being a real airplane builder!

I don't know why it took so long for me to work make the first cut. It's not even a plane I have interest in building, so if I screw it up it isn't a big loss. Anyways, I'm happy to say that it's much easier than expected. I'm hoping to get more time to play with it this weekend.

After I get this together, I'm thinking my next steps will be the plans for the CH-750 later this year and the tail kit for it early next year.

3. Sep 28, 2017

BJC

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Excellent!

Given all the holes and deburring that is ahead, you may want to get a decent high speed air powered drill.

BJC

4. Sep 28, 2017

proppastie

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Great idea, I looked them up.....Why are the tables 5' rather than 4' or 8' ......a sheet of MFD or Ply is 4x8 ft.

5. Sep 29, 2017

Toobuilder

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Did the fly to work thing today... Its close enough (30 miles) that it would have been faster door to door to drive. Fun, nevertheless. Got home and trimmed the rear baffle to fit on the Rocket, got frustrated and jumped in the T- craft for 20 minutes of therapy... Then had a beer.

So touched 3 of my "projects" today.

Good day, I think.

6. Sep 29, 2017

skier

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I have no idea. I was wondering about that too as I was building them. However, I decided that over thinking it and designing my own tables (or modifying those) would take more time and just be another stumbling block to getting started. And I think all of us around here know how that ends up. By just doing exactly what the plans showed, I ended up with 2 nice sturdy tables after a couple hours of work. Note that one batch made to the plans yields 2 tables.

Ill probably build another other two tables before starting the full tail kit and another 2 (for a total of 6) before starting the wing or fuselage.

7. Sep 29, 2017

TFF

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I have two built to 8'. I think the original is so you can have multiples of 5'. 3 tables 15' and are small enough that they can be a single task work station. I have mine because they were too big for the builder to keep once he was done. He might have kept a 5'.

8. Sep 29, 2017

proppastie

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I need 22 ft for 1/2 my spar....so 6 at 4' probably will be my choice.

9. Sep 30, 2017

Monty

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Paint, Sand, Repeat....

The original surface quality was terrible!

I'm about to declare it done and paint the lumpy thing....It's better than it was.

10. Oct 1, 2017

Victor Bravo

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Mounted the EGT/CHT gauge

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11. Oct 1, 2017

Toobuilder

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Fabricated the fuel selector cover plate. Fabricated, painted and installed my altenator bracket. Machined some more weight off my alternator pulley.

Last edited: Oct 1, 2017
12. Oct 1, 2017

Lucrum

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Did some TIG welding on the steel tube frame yesterday

13. Oct 2, 2017

choppergirl

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"BabyDoll" Plane Hauling Trailer, to go pick up the PoorBoy ultralight... was uncharacteristically cold today, slept in late because too cold to get out of bed, but finally got around to working on it after 2pm... nonstop.

Derusting. Burn through a few more Polycarbide Abrasive Wheels; Vinegar & Lemon Juice (Food Stamp money hard at work); Phosphoric Acid; First coat primer with Dollar Tree Paint brush.

From: https://www.homebuiltairplanes.com/forums/album.php?albumid=627

I discovered instead of washing parts to get the vinegar and lemon juice off, coat them in phosophoric acid with a paintbrush right after, let them sit a little bit, and then wipe the black junk off with a rag before the sticky phosophic acid mess dries completely. Then they won't flash rust because you don't introduce water and you left a coating of phosphoric acid on the steel, and the black mess on your rag. Then paint them with this rusty metal primer stuff after they dry, which is a really heavy paint... wouldn't use it on an airplane.

Next: more work on the leaf springs, axles, and paint this sucker with Aluminum color enamel. Maybe I should of went with dark grey, but... wanted to use the left over enamel on my plane undercarriage which I want aluminum color. Looks like I'm going to have a lot of paint left over, which is cool, because this Rustoleum Enamel goop is \$.

Thinking about naming the Poorboy/Poorgirl "Unity", after Infinite Ricks girlfriend Unity who was kind of like the Borg, and assimilated an entire population, that broke his heart.

Last edited: Oct 2, 2017
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14. Oct 2, 2017

Toobuilder

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The front stick in my airplane has the Infinity grip clocked wrong - which bugs me. The pivot bushing also has a very slight bit of play which is really only noticable when sitting on the ground - but it bugs me. So I started building a new stick which will use ball bearings for the pivot, thereby eliminating any slop. Of course, the stick grip will be properly indexed this time too. So today I machined the boss for the bearings and welded it to a new piece of tube (stick). Just need to weld the control horn to the bottom, drill some holes and slap paint on it.

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15. Oct 2, 2017

Monty

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In, the last few days, I've painted, sanded, painted, sanded......A LOT.

Then I got to the money shot, and the darn paint didn't match. So much for the 3M digital camera paint matching system!

I took the parts out to the hangar to see if I could live with them on the airplane. NO WAY...they look brown next to the airplane. So I'll have to re-paint. To make matters worse, the brake fluid had leaked out on the ground from one of the calipers. I guess I know why that side was particularly soft before. New O-rings ordered for everything. Panels coming off again...

Sooooooo....the W&B was about .2 in aft of the rear limit at no fuel with me in the plane, after I really sharpened my pencil and checked the datums. Rather than put lead in the nose, I'm going to add a smoke system:ban:

It must end at some point!!:gig:

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16. Oct 2, 2017

TerryM76

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Removing instruments from the Pober panel today to prepare a new panel. Planning on going with Stewart Warner engine gauges.....don't like the looks of Rochester gauges. Currently the plane has a mixture of everything, including a Chinese voltage gauge and switches. I want US made parts where possible even if they are old and lightly used, but that's just me.

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17. Oct 2, 2017

Topaz

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Make sure that the two parts are not only painted in "matching colors", but also the same kind of paint. You may be running into metamerism, whereby the spectral response of two different materials mean they only match colors in one specific lighting scenario.

There's a neat little demo of this that floats around a lot of print shops, to show whether or not they have proper standardized lighting for proofing. It's a little card with two adjacent rectangles of color. Under standard D50 lighting, the rectangles are the same color. Take it out into any other artificial lighting, and the two rectangles are clearly not the same color. Freaks people out the first time they see it.

Different brands of paint are going to have different spectral responses, and matching them for color across all lighting conditions is going to be virtually impossible.

18. Oct 2, 2017

Topaz

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Yesterday I finalized the seating positions of this project, and started beating my head against the wall regarding a canopy (see the Volksplane 21 thread). I'm still going to do a crude cockpit mockup, just to finesse the cockpit width and fore-aft geometry. The canopy... well, that's going to take a little thinking.

19. Oct 2, 2017

Victor Bravo

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Topaz if you need some blue foam to do a mock up or build a moldless shape for your project, ring me up.

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20. Oct 2, 2017

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