What did you do on your airplane project today?

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Toobuilder

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The plastic push lock stuff from big box stores will get tighter with internal pressure. But in a pressurized cabin, the air goes against the lock mechanism from the "unlock" side and unseats the o ring.

Thats my theory anyway.

And yes, I went with the traditional crush type swagelock ferrule/nut deal.
 
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Toobuilder

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Before:

Jet day 1.jpg

After;

Jet Gone.jpg

Would have liked to get some better pictures of the departure today but there was an epic fail on my part. Hopefully a neighbor has some video. Probably the only time a jet will ever operate out of this strip.

Anyway, jet departed today and I did an airborne pickup on him. I did a belly check for the gear retraction and let him go. He landed safely and the jet is GONE from my life!
 

Chris.r.Ingram

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Nov 13, 2021
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Finally got off my behind and made new router templates, routed out some aluminum and started making some aileron bulkheads for the wagabond. 8ADE1DF9-BFDA-4EEA-8FA7-432A611EA327.jpeg F9F26AB3-1428-4BD8-AE74-285D76834F38.jpeg 6A6D5478-A2B1-45BE-A96A-CC4AC8A4CCA3.jpeg
 

Marc W

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Mar 31, 2017
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Colorado
I finished removing the alternator from the Jabiru 3300 in my Rans. I took the stator and voltage regulator off yesterday but I could only get one of four screws holding the rotor out yesterday. The screws were well coated with threadlocker and only have a 1/8" allen key recess. Needless to say, the allen key would rather round out the recess than turn the screw. Heat is recommended to remove them and reportedly even with heat they don't want to come out so they often have to be drilled out. They are hard to get to with anything I have to heat them.

I went to the hanger to remove them this morning come what may. I even took the tig welder as a last resort since I figured that if all else failed I would weld a driver bit to the head and that would definitely also heat them. Luckily I didn't have to set up the welder. I am not sure I could have got the torch in place and been able to see what I was doing anyway. What worked was to drive a torx driver bit into the allen socket. The first screw came out fairly easily. The second, I had to grind the tip back on the torx bit to square up the end. The last one I had to grind the bit again and drill the allen socket deeper to be able to drive the torx bit in further. So, mission accomplished!

The stock permanent magnet alternator will be replaced with a small Denso alternator.

Alternator.jpg Rotor Screws and Bit.jpg
 

Chris.r.Ingram

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Formed a few ribs the last couple days, then adjusted my router template and forming jig. Finally got them coming out right. You can see my progress from initial rib to the last iteration. Got 30 of the plates routed out. Will finish them in the morning and then get them all deburred. Then I can start running them through the press!


22A4ACE0-3998-4CBC-8668-D80C61A5E716.jpeg 362991FE-86AC-43B2-83CF-E391D21A00F3.jpeg B23237FD-C091-46EC-94F3-DC91A414110B.jpeg 8AF02721-F1CE-4095-A644-78937BDC8129.jpeg 66103281-2D44-4CB9-B49A-1D665A026D83.jpeg
 

Tiger Tim

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Thunder Bay
Boring paperwork research today leading to wicked sticker shock over what all the various submissions are going to cost.
 

Chris.r.Ingram

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Nov 13, 2021
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I got the last of aileron bulkheads routed out yesterday. Messed around with a drilling jig for them, however, I think I’ll just use the spar holes and match drill in place.
Still need to sit down and deburr all the plates and form them. Later today or tomorrow I might get to it.
Taking the kids down to look at a dog today so that might delay things a smidge.
Also waiting impatiently for ACS to ship all my wood!
 

Toobuilder

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Building a replacement aileron for the Rocket. When first purchased, the airplane had a trim tab and servo installed. I promptly removed the junk and added a fixed tab/patch. There is rarely a need for aileron trim in an RV type, and the hardware adds weight and reduces flutter margin. Anyway, I bought a replacement aileron kit years ago and finally have the time to knock it out. It continues to amaze me how Van sells stuff so cheap and makes enough profit to keep the doors open. This kit is pre formed, pre punched, includes everything needed, and will cleko together right out of the box. I think I paid about $85 bucks for it. I can only imagine what the equivalent kit from Beechcraft or Cessna would cost.
 

Kyle Boatright

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Nov 11, 2012
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Marietta, GA
Today...? OK, how 'bout this weekend, instead?

  • Terminated and tested the position, strobe, and landing lights. They all make the right light in the right places.
  • Attached the doors, door opening struts, etc.
  • Cleaned up where a brake fitting was leaking in the belly of the airplane. Tightened the fitting, re-purged that side of the brake system.
  • Tightened/checked all(tm) of the fuel fittings in the wings/fuse. Added 5 gallons of fuel to each tank for the first time. Found the one fitting in the aircraft's belly I hadn't tightened. (Note, 100LL is a pretty good solvent for sticky brake fluid).
  • Installed the step on the right side. I got clever during the initial stages of the fuselage build and made this task much harder than it needed to be.
 

Toobuilder

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Flew the new aileron and found a very heavy right wing. One of the fixes is to squeeze the TE fold, but first, the basic geometry needs to be right - and in my case it isn't. So I've removed the flaps and am going through a new rig baseline. Was way off.
 
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