StRaNgEdAyS
Well-Known Member
I was browsing the SAAA site this evening and I came across this little bit of information.
To be fair I'll leave the original author of this list in there.
Tools for Building Aluminium Aircraft
by
DAVID FRANCIS SAAA #5709
Notes:
(a) This list excludes common household tools such as hammer, pliers, screwdrivers.
(b) Key: M = mandatory, S = mandatory specialised tool, P = optional highly productive tool, L = a luxury, D = a disappointment.
(c) You can build a plane with just a drill, file, hacksaw and rivet gun. All other tools just save labour and reduce risk of damage.
TOOL (Key) COMMENT
Air compressor (M) Minimum capacity 17cfm, otherwise it will overload. Needs regulator, oiler & driers optional, get two hoses at least.
Rivet gun (S) 2x, 3x or 4x. 2x is smallest, lightest and least stable. 4x is unwieldy.
Rivet sets (S) Minimum useful are flat swivel set, back rivet set, straight set for 118, offset set for 118, 1 x thin flat, 1 x thick flat.
C frame (S) You can’t reach without it. Used for dimpling and riveting.
Hammer, dead blow (P) Plastic face, good for maximum impact with minimal damage to your wrist.
Cleco pliers (S) Necessary, but will induce repetition injuries.
Pneumatic Cleco tool (P) Protects me from re-occurrence of tendonitis and other hand injuries.
Edge forming tool (D) Theoretically provides better edges to sheets, hard to use well, dubious advantage.
Tube flaring tool (S) Flares pipe to 37 degrees, do not use commercial 45 degree tools.
Tube bending tool (L) You can do without this luxury, but untidy results for extra labour is the alternative.
Clecos (S) Typically you need 300 @ 3132, 100 @ 118, 6 @ 3116.
Torque wrench (P) Calibrated in inch pounds (NOT ft pounds), pay $200, with experience you can get away without it, but…..risky.
Straight snips (P)
Bandsaw (P) My most versatile and useful toy, use fine tooth saw blade, about 10-15 teeth per inch. Saves lots of labour.
Linisher (P) My most used tool. I use the Multitool attachment for a 6 inch bench grinder. Used for shaping & deburring.
Pneumatic die grinder (L) Can be very versatile, but is hard to use and unsafe. Use full face shield and count your fingers.
Dremel tool (L) Very useful for small job cutting, deburring and smoothing. It’s a mini die grinder.
Pneumatic nibbler (L) Good for fast curved & straight cutting of sheet metal. Can be rough and hard to handle, saves much labour.
Unibit step drill (P) The very best way to cut neat holes in sheet metal, much used. Pay about $70.
Drill press (P) The only way to accurately drill holes in frame components, don’t get the smallest like I did.
Fly cutter (P) Used to cut larger holes. Dangerous, you must clamp the piece firmly.
Files (M) Get a collection of large and small, round, half round and flat and discover which ones work best.
Drill bits (M) #51 for pilot holes, #32 & #42 for undersizing rivet holes, #30 & #40 for final size rivet holes, use split point drills.
Hand reamers (M) For use in steel brackets where drills grab & tear, geet them for #30, #40, #12 (for AN3 Bolts, ¼ for AN4 bolts).
Air drill (M) Needed to avoid metal swarf buildup in electric drills. Get quality such as Shinano or Sioux, pay $300 ea, need 2.
Countersink cage (M) Get a good quality one, poor countersinking causes fatigue cracks.
Deburring cutter (P) You can use an oversized drill too. Mine is in a cheap electric screwdriver to save the wrist.
Dimple dies (M) Get sizes for 3/32 and 3/32 tank rivet, 1/8.
Close quarter dimple dies (M) Get for 3/32 and 1/8 rivets in skinny places.
Hand rivet squeezer (M) Get good quality or you will get repetition strain injuries
Pneumatic rivet squeezer (L) Wish I had one, I lack the strength to hand squeeze 1/8 rivets well.
Yokes (M) Need a minimum of 3 to reach the likely places, 2 inch standard, aileron yoke, and 2 inch thin nose yoke.
Spray gun (P) If you insist on painting get good quality with the cup on top for gravity feed. Good luck.
Pin punch (M) Needed to remove bad rivets, and line up bad holes. 3/32, 1/8 sizes at least.
Abrasives (M) You will learn to use all types, wheels, sheet, flap wheels, a very personal choice.
Ear muffs (M)
Safety glasses (M) Metal swarf in eyes is bad, perspex chips in the eyes cannot be seen to be removed.
Electric tools (M) See www.aeroelectricconnection.com – there is builder choice here, but specialised hand tools are needed for wiring.
Clamps (P) Get about 6 ea small, medium and big. Your choice, but the lighter the better.
It's a pretty comprehensive list.
To be fair I'll leave the original author of this list in there.
Tools for Building Aluminium Aircraft
by
DAVID FRANCIS SAAA #5709
Notes:
(a) This list excludes common household tools such as hammer, pliers, screwdrivers.
(b) Key: M = mandatory, S = mandatory specialised tool, P = optional highly productive tool, L = a luxury, D = a disappointment.
(c) You can build a plane with just a drill, file, hacksaw and rivet gun. All other tools just save labour and reduce risk of damage.
TOOL (Key) COMMENT
Air compressor (M) Minimum capacity 17cfm, otherwise it will overload. Needs regulator, oiler & driers optional, get two hoses at least.
Rivet gun (S) 2x, 3x or 4x. 2x is smallest, lightest and least stable. 4x is unwieldy.
Rivet sets (S) Minimum useful are flat swivel set, back rivet set, straight set for 118, offset set for 118, 1 x thin flat, 1 x thick flat.
C frame (S) You can’t reach without it. Used for dimpling and riveting.
Hammer, dead blow (P) Plastic face, good for maximum impact with minimal damage to your wrist.
Cleco pliers (S) Necessary, but will induce repetition injuries.
Pneumatic Cleco tool (P) Protects me from re-occurrence of tendonitis and other hand injuries.
Edge forming tool (D) Theoretically provides better edges to sheets, hard to use well, dubious advantage.
Tube flaring tool (S) Flares pipe to 37 degrees, do not use commercial 45 degree tools.
Tube bending tool (L) You can do without this luxury, but untidy results for extra labour is the alternative.
Clecos (S) Typically you need 300 @ 3132, 100 @ 118, 6 @ 3116.
Torque wrench (P) Calibrated in inch pounds (NOT ft pounds), pay $200, with experience you can get away without it, but…..risky.
Straight snips (P)
Bandsaw (P) My most versatile and useful toy, use fine tooth saw blade, about 10-15 teeth per inch. Saves lots of labour.
Linisher (P) My most used tool. I use the Multitool attachment for a 6 inch bench grinder. Used for shaping & deburring.
Pneumatic die grinder (L) Can be very versatile, but is hard to use and unsafe. Use full face shield and count your fingers.
Dremel tool (L) Very useful for small job cutting, deburring and smoothing. It’s a mini die grinder.
Pneumatic nibbler (L) Good for fast curved & straight cutting of sheet metal. Can be rough and hard to handle, saves much labour.
Unibit step drill (P) The very best way to cut neat holes in sheet metal, much used. Pay about $70.
Drill press (P) The only way to accurately drill holes in frame components, don’t get the smallest like I did.
Fly cutter (P) Used to cut larger holes. Dangerous, you must clamp the piece firmly.
Files (M) Get a collection of large and small, round, half round and flat and discover which ones work best.
Drill bits (M) #51 for pilot holes, #32 & #42 for undersizing rivet holes, #30 & #40 for final size rivet holes, use split point drills.
Hand reamers (M) For use in steel brackets where drills grab & tear, geet them for #30, #40, #12 (for AN3 Bolts, ¼ for AN4 bolts).
Air drill (M) Needed to avoid metal swarf buildup in electric drills. Get quality such as Shinano or Sioux, pay $300 ea, need 2.
Countersink cage (M) Get a good quality one, poor countersinking causes fatigue cracks.
Deburring cutter (P) You can use an oversized drill too. Mine is in a cheap electric screwdriver to save the wrist.
Dimple dies (M) Get sizes for 3/32 and 3/32 tank rivet, 1/8.
Close quarter dimple dies (M) Get for 3/32 and 1/8 rivets in skinny places.
Hand rivet squeezer (M) Get good quality or you will get repetition strain injuries
Pneumatic rivet squeezer (L) Wish I had one, I lack the strength to hand squeeze 1/8 rivets well.
Yokes (M) Need a minimum of 3 to reach the likely places, 2 inch standard, aileron yoke, and 2 inch thin nose yoke.
Spray gun (P) If you insist on painting get good quality with the cup on top for gravity feed. Good luck.
Pin punch (M) Needed to remove bad rivets, and line up bad holes. 3/32, 1/8 sizes at least.
Abrasives (M) You will learn to use all types, wheels, sheet, flap wheels, a very personal choice.
Ear muffs (M)
Safety glasses (M) Metal swarf in eyes is bad, perspex chips in the eyes cannot be seen to be removed.
Electric tools (M) See www.aeroelectricconnection.com – there is builder choice here, but specialised hand tools are needed for wiring.
Clamps (P) Get about 6 ea small, medium and big. Your choice, but the lighter the better.
It's a pretty comprehensive list.
