The Millholland Designs Legal Eagle Ultralight, Legal Eagle XL and Double Eagle

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Rockiedog2

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Messages
2,333
https://www.homebuiltairplanes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31254

Fritz has got a thread goin about Half Vdub bed mounts and it wandered a little onto cut case/full case versions. Goor thread and Leonard was quoted...

"What ever you do DON’T cut the case. You will get in to more work and no good benefit from cutting the case. The part one cuts weighs 4 pounds and 1 pound can be removed by cutting the transmission flange off it. This only covered the clutch on the car. The first thing you cut off is your engine mount, then you have to put it back on it (adding angle to the bottom of the case) which results in more weight and lots of extra work. Then you will have to have some sort of a oil cooler which equates to more weight and more work. Then you will have a lot more crank case pressure and will need to add a set of reed valves to take care of that which again results in more weight and more work. There is NO benefit to cutting the case and I don’t see why others keep cutting it."

I defer to Leonard(Boss) on all things Half Vdub.
Mine is a cut case version from Scott. I never would have got one running whether cut case or full case so I wrote a check instead. Yeah, I know. That's cheating. I did have a slightly different experience with mine tho...a 37 horse and a 45. Never have had an oil cooler on either one. The 45 will get a little warm in real hot wx say about 210 oil temp.So I put Mobil One with ZDDP in it and just run it. No probs with that in 300 hours. I did buy a nice little Harley Sportster aftermarket oil cooler tho but it's still on the shelf. Yeh there's the crankcase pressure thing Leonard mentioned and Scott handles that with the reed valve things Leonard mentioned. That works ok for me but mine will blow a half quart of oil out if 2 quarts are put in it. Goes on the pilot's left knee. So I put 1.5 quarts in it and ok with that. So yeh Boss is right on all the tech stuff. You gotta deal with it.
The reason I wanted the cut case version was pure esthetics. I was building I think the most classic UL out there and I wanted it all to be "right" as much as I could. To me the cutcase with a traditional tube mount is the only version that looks proper and correct...cublike. That was enough for me to go cutcase. I like it. It sure was expensive.

IMGP3117.jpg Boss and Rockiedog at OSH years back. He's gonna outlive us all.

DSCN0024.jpg Write a check and a while later this shows up. Pretty.

IMG_1542r3.jpg You gotta build somethin like this. First I built a 1/2x.035 one and found 5 cracks in it on preflight. It wudda come off on that flight pretty sure. So went to 5/8x049 and that one has been ok. More redneck engineering, I had my doubts about it but fanatical weight control. Went a little too far

IMG_1547r.jpg attach lug each corner of the 1/4" AL back plate. Tapped for the mounting bolts.

IMG_1548r.jpg Hardware.

Pops knows too and he says don't cut it and he's built one. Leonard and Pops know. I do think the motor on mine sets it off tho. Clean and proper, not clumsy looking atall.
Prob best to listen to the old timers. I'm only 73.
 

Rockiedog2

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Joined
Dec 11, 2012
Messages
2,333
Says above the back plate is tapped. That was on the 37. The 45 has the ears out side the case and the bolts go all way thru. Much better. I never did like the tapped case method.
 

Pops

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Log Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2013
Messages
8,058
Location
USA.
On my 1/2 cut case VW, I welded material from the cut off material into the 4 corners of the case and drilled and threaded for studs. Holes drilled in the rear aluminum cover plate for the studs. I used a mag drive off the end of the crank. Turned an alum ring and welded to the cover plate and drove the mag just like the parts from Great Plains simple mag drive. Welded up a 4130 tube engine mount from 5/8 x .049 and used auto rear shock rubber from NAPA just like Joe. Bought a Slick surplus mag for $100. Bought the crank counter weight material from Scott and welded on and machined and put a #1 thrust bearing in the place of #3 with thrust shims on each side. Had to turn the side of the crank mounted cam gear and the large gear on the cam for clearance.

I built the 1/2 VW for the SSSC but decided it would be very under powered with my 230 lb fat butt, so I built a 1200 cc , 4 cylinder, 40 hp engine and flew it for the first 32 hrs. I would have kept it on if I weighted 140/150 lbs but not enough power for me and then I built the 1835 cc, 60 hp, HUGE difference, then performed like a Super Cub.
Picture of the 1/2 VW engine mount on the airplane at one time.
 

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Pops

Well-Known Member
Log Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2013
Messages
8,058
Location
USA.
http://www.homebuiltairplanes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31254

Fritz has got a thread goin about Half Vdub bed mounts and it wandered a little onto cut case/full case versions. Goor thread and Leonard was quoted...

"What ever you do DON’T cut the case. You will get in to more work and no good benefit from cutting the case. The part one cuts weighs 4 pounds and 1 pound can be removed by cutting the transmission flange off it. This only covered the clutch on the car. The first thing you cut off is your engine mount, then you have to put it back on it (adding angle to the bottom of the case) which results in more weight and lots of extra work. Then you will have to have some sort of a oil cooler which equates to more weight and more work. Then you will have a lot more crank case pressure and will need to add a set of reed valves to take care of that which again results in more weight and more work. There is NO benefit to cutting the case and I don’t see why others keep cutting it."

I defer to Leonard(Boss) on all things Half Vdub.
Mine is a cut case version from Scott. I never would have got one running whether cut case or full case so I wrote a check instead. Yeah, I know. That's cheating. I did have a slightly different experience with mine tho...a 37 horse and a 45. Never have had an oil cooler on either one. The 45 will get a little warm in real hot wx say about 210 oil temp.So I put Mobil One with ZDDP in it and just run it. No probs with that in 300 hours. I did buy a nice little Harley Sportster aftermarket oil cooler tho but it's still on the shelf. Yeh there's the crankcase pressure thing Leonard mentioned and Scott handles that with the reed valve things Leonard mentioned. That works ok for me but mine will blow a half quart of oil out if 2 quarts are put in it. Goes on the pilot's left knee. So I put 1.5 quarts in it and ok with that. So yeh Boss is right on all the tech stuff. You gotta deal with it.
The reason I wanted the cut case version was pure esthetics. I was building I think the most classic UL out there and I wanted it all to be "right" as much as I could. To me the cutcase with a traditional tube mount is the only version that looks proper and correct...cublike. That was enough for me to go cutcase. I like it. It sure was expensive.

View attachment 78871 Boss and Rockiedog at OSH years back. He's gonna outlive us all.

View attachment 78872 Write a check and a while later this shows up. Pretty.

View attachment 78873 You gotta build somethin like this. First I built a 1/2x.035 one and found 5 cracks in it on preflight. It wudda come off on that flight pretty sure. So went to 5/8x049 and that one has been ok. More redneck engineering, I had my doubts about it but fanatical weight control. Went a little too far

View attachment 78874 attach lug each corner of the 1/4" AL back plate. Tapped for the mounting bolts.

View attachment 78875 Hardware.

Pops knows too and he says don't cut it and he's built one. Leonard and Pops know. I do think the motor on mine sets it off tho. Clean and proper, not clumsy looking atall.
Prob best to listen to the old timers. I'm only 73.
73 years old, sure hope I make it to be that old. Dang.
 

Maxray

Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2018
Messages
20
Location
Elyria, Ohio
I ended up getting a good deal on a low time and well maintained Mosler 1/2 VW with Scatt heads. Runs fantastic!
The engine sat for 8 years and after 5 chocked prop pulls, it fired up like a champion! Video here:
I am running Amsoil Zrod oil in it because of the extra protection for the flat tappets. Culver 54 x 22 prop.
Joe, Where did you get your vortex generators? If you made them, How about making me a set for my XL?
I'll pay you in advance!~
 

Rockiedog2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2012
Messages
2,333
He's top notch and so are his vgs. We're friends but that's not why I rec his vgs; it's cause I got the best results with his. He's near 80 now and still criss crossing AU in his Savannah...slow and rough riding as a 701. He's got some REAL stories...stuff most of us would never dream of.
I think will like those vgs. I suggest you fly it a while w/o them and then put them on and see what the difference is particularly in low speed handling. And get back to us with what you found.
I found 8% of chord worked best for me. Too far forward and they make drag; too far aft and they don't get to do anything
 
Last edited:

Rockiedog2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2012
Messages
2,333
I ended up getting a good deal on a low time and well maintained Mosler 1/2 VW with Scatt heads. Runs fantastic!
The engine sat for 8 years and after 5 chocked prop pulls, it fired up like a champion! Video here:
I am running Amsoil Zrod oil in it because of the extra protection for the flat tappets. Culver 54 x 22 prop.
Joe, Where did you get your vortex generators? If you made them, How about making me a set for my XL?
I'll pay you in advance!~

after mine sits a while I give it a shot of ether in each carb and it starts right up. I drain the carb bowls before putting it to bed for the winter. Drain the tank too. Never had to do anything more than that
I add ZDDP to the Mobil ONE I run. After about 50 hours or so on a new motor they say it's ok to go to syn. Mine gained about 100 rpm when going from GTX to Mobil ONE.
 

Rockiedog2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2012
Messages
2,333
Yankees come down here and say they freezing to death. It's the humidity
 
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