The Lone Ranger - a Ranger/SD-1/Aeromax based design

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rtfm

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Hi,
Been finalising my CAD files and working out (1) what wood I need and (2) how to actually construct what I've drawn. Here are the sheets I'll need for the fuselage. The blue sheets are 3mm, the yellow, 1.5mm
Plywood_required_001.png
 

FritzW

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Just an observation... thin strips of thin ply aren't very stiff when you bend them parallel to the surface grain. It looks like your using a whole lotta ply to add very little strength or stiffness.

20190824_113702_resized.jpg
 

rtfm

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Hi,
Ha ha. The ply "strips" are exactly as wide as the 19mm x 19mm Hoop Pine (our version of Spruce) and their job is to position the backing Hoop Pine. Makes actual construction a breeze, because there is absolutely no measuring. And the fillets at the joins act to encapsulate the cnc cut corner reinforcing pieces. Everything bonded with t88

Duncan
 

FritzW

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I know your going to glue the ply to square sticks. I'm just saying those thin strips won't add much strength of stiffness. ...maybe I'm just not seeing how it all goes together yet.
 

12notes

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I know your going to glue the ply to square sticks. I'm just saying those thin strips won't add much strength of stiffness. ...maybe I'm just not seeing how it all goes together yet.

I think what he was saying is that they are there simply as alignment guides for the square sticks, and not intended to increase stiffness.
 

STDJantar2

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Hi,
Been finalising my CAD files and working out (1) what wood I need and (2) how to actually construct what I've drawn. Here are the sheets I'll need for the fuselage. The blue sheets are 3mm, the yellow, 1.5mm
View attachment 88370

To me seems a lot of wasted wood when cutting out those voids. Why not just use the fillets?
 

FritzW

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Like the clecos on the Ranger, perfect/simple alignment is a good thing. But why carry your alignment fixture with you the rest of your life? ...and smearing that much glue during it's very limited open time is going to be a challenge.

But I don't know what rtfm has in mind, he's probably worked all of that out.
 

rtfm

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Hi. I've worked with t88 quite a lot. Plenty of time. Of course, one wouldn't bond the entire side at once. Outsiders first, then the inside pieces in two passes.

I worked out the weight of the templates. I can't remember exactly what they weighed, but it wasn't very much.

As for all the unused bits... I plan to use those areas to cut out a few other parts also, like parts of the tail feathers and the aft fuse. Also to cut some unrelated projects, like a cover for my 3d printer, and some stuff for my wife. Not a lot of wood going to waste.

Duncan
 

rtfm

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Hi again,
I'm back from my business travels. Only to discover that one of the 3D Printed parts for my Lowrider2 CNC router doesn't fit. Bugger. And to compound things, I have bought a new Duet3d WiFi board for the 3D printer, and can't get it to work. Long story short: 3D printer buggered, CNC router waiting for parts. AAAAARGH! Can't stand it.
Duncan
 

rtfm

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Hi,
As you know, I'm cutting 1.5mm ply as below, to which I am bonding Hoop Pine. The plywood acts as little more than a template for the pine, guaranteeing me of a perfect fit, angles etc.
CF_rods_aft_tail_section.png
I'm about to order pultruded CF rods from Jim Marske, and got to thinking - would there be any drawback in replacing my Hoop Pine doublers with CF rods? Three rods side by side would fit perfectly on the plywood. The weight (for both sides of the tail) would be something just over a kilogram (the 1.5mm ply is extremely light). Add in some T88. A very light structure.

I would use the same five plywood bulkheads, and same plywood top/bottom pieces. A single covering of 1.5mm plywood then is bonded to the outside.

So my question is - can you see any drawbacks in using CF rods instead of Hoop Pine bonded to the plywood template?

Regards,
Duncan
 
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