The AFB (Amazing FleaBike)

Homebuilt Aircraft & Kit Plane Forum

Help Support Homebuilt Aircraft & Kit Plane Forum:

Sockmonkey

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2014
Messages
2,278
Location
Flint, Mi, USA
Problem could be the rivet holes close to the major axis affecting the strength
The holes and rivets would be very tiny. They only need to hold the strip in place, as opposed to rivets holding structural bits together.
How about getting making a pattern from poster board, make a streamline fairing, a tad over-size in the fat section, and using Adel clamps on the tubing to attach the aluminum fairing? No holes drilled in the strut, this way.
That works too.
Anything you can shape and slide on will do really.
 

rtfm

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2008
Messages
3,655
Location
Brisbane, Australia
OK - the fuselage is complete, windshield added and all sanded down. Any suggestion regarding how to paint the Bike?

I have some 117 fairing additive for West system, and I thought I might roll that on, sand it back and paint with West + pigment (white). I'm leaving the control panels, seat, seatback (i.e. the upper central spine) natural wood, but painting the rest.

Is there a better way? I'm talking about materials for the painting. Someone mentioned spray putty, rub down and paint. And is any good paint OK?

1627607191973.png
 
Last edited:

Victor Bravo

Well-Known Member
HBA Supporter
Joined
Jul 30, 2014
Messages
9,717
Location
KWHP, Los Angeles CA, USA
That looks really good ! Congratulations on this great progress !

The model airplane guys many years ago used "Sanding Sealer" (which was dope and talcum powder), as a first coat over bare wood. The idea is that you want to limit how much the coating soaks into the wood, so it doesn't soak a bunch of weight into the wood. You need some penetration, but after the first coat of Sanding Sealer you don't want anything else going into the wood (where it won't be sanded off later).

So I would find some kind of first-layer coating that bonds well with the wood, but is light and won't let anything else soak in afterward. Once this first coat is done and sanded smooth, you can probably roll on latex house paint like what the guys using Stewart Systems and other water based systems are using nowdays.
 

David L. Downey

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2019
Messages
147
Location
Harleysville, PA
Get a strip of aluminum sheet, bend it into a deep V shape, and rivet it onto the tube so the cross section is like this. <o
well, if you scotchbrite the bare aluminum tube, the fairing inner surfaces at the forward edges and the primed steel tube, followed by isopropyl alcohol wipe, you can bond the bent fairing to the strut tubes (yikes! forward facing laps!) using ProSeal 890 B½ sealer or possibly even ScotchWeld EC2216 or Hysol EA9309 epoxies. Any separation will be progressive using that process and those materials so especially if the finished, faired strut is painted it will be very easy to see it on preflight.
 

delta

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 26, 2011
Messages
2,541
Location
Brookside Utah
I'd research what clear coatings would meet the durability and weight requirements. Showcase that beautiful wood and workmanship.
 

challenger_II

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2009
Messages
547
Location
Fisher County, Tx. USA
Non-taughtening Nitrate dope. Everything sticks to nitrate, and it will seal the wood. Just add talc, mix thoroughly, and start with a light coat. When dry, sand lightly, dust off, and add another coat. When satisfied with your surface, go over it with a 50/50 nitrate/ thinner coat, to seal the talc coats. Add your favorite color coat.

With the talc/dope method, you can get a very smooth surface. I have had people ask what metal I used to build with. They are shocked to find it was a wood surface.

Ain't building model airplanes wonderful! :)

That looks really good ! Congratulations on this great progress !

The model airplane guys many years ago used "Sanding Sealer" (which was dope and talcum powder), as a first coat over bare wood. The idea is that you want to limit how much the coating soaks into the wood, so it doesn't soak a bunch of weight into the wood. You need some penetration, but after the first coat of Sanding Sealer you don't want anything else going into the wood (where it won't be sanded off later).

So I would find some kind of first-layer coating that bonds well with the wood, but is light and won't let anything else soak in afterward. Once this first coat is done and sanded smooth, you can probably roll on latex house paint like what the guys using Stewart Systems and other water based systems are using nowdays.
 

rtfm

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2008
Messages
3,655
Location
Brisbane, Australia
Lockdown has ended, and I'm off today to check out and order the final wood for the Fleabike from Boatcraft Pacific. I'll also be asking their advice on primer and paint choices.
When I get back, I'll finish the fin, and (hopefully) bond it to the fuselage before priming it. I have an RAAus inspector dropping by some time this week I hope to examine the fuselage.

I have really been struggling with how to mount the rudder. I searched every hinge supplier I could find, and came up with empty hands, so this is what I've come up with:

1628462241851.png

I'm still waiting for the wing hinges to arrive (curse these lockdowns!) so that I can configure the wing folding geometry before I launch into building the rest of the wing panels.

Also, I'm going to check out the following galvanised steel pipe (for the wing masts, and landing gear): 25mm x 1.2mm wall.
1628462742211.png
 

rtfm

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2008
Messages
3,655
Location
Brisbane, Australia
I'd research what clear coatings would meet the durability and weight requirements. Showcase that beautiful wood and workmanship.
I've given the top "spine" of the Fleabike three coats of West System (rubbed down in-between coats). Looks very flash - more of a detail than a full-blown statement. The rest of the plane (and wings) will be painted white I think. I've seen fully varnished planes, and they look a bit drab I think. Not sure if I need to do a final coat of UV-resistant varnish or something?
 

rtfm

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2008
Messages
3,655
Location
Brisbane, Australia
Mmmm you might be right. I can't find the usual wrap around Bracket anywhere. The rudder is only 16mm wide. I might have to cut, bend and drill my own.
 

Tiger Tim

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2013
Messages
3,986
Location
Thunder Bay
Wow... These look the bomb! Am I correct in reading that I get NINE sets of hinges for their quoted price? I'll get hold of them to confirm, but it does look that way.
Sounds like it, but you may as well double check when you talk to them.
 
Top