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Kiwi303

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2015
Messages
403
Location
En Zed. Aka The Shire.
I have some old 90+ year old pine trees that used to be the shade trees and windbreak for a one room rural school in the 1930's, we're felling them as they're getting too old and unstable due to age.

I also have a chainsaw mill, I wonder if I should cherry pick nice lengths and mill them out to go up on the roofing trusses to dry out in the shearing shed... They'd be fairly short, 6 foot or so between knots maybe. Not enough to make spars out of, but certainly should make ribs... long enough for chord but not span.
 

TFF

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2010
Messages
15,344
Location
Memphis, TN
If you have a chainsaw mill, you can keep turning the log to get the rift or quarter sawn grain. That’s a big advantage.
 

Kiwi303

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2015
Messages
403
Location
En Zed. Aka The Shire.
As I understand it from reading the various "how to select wood" resources, the best wood is the lengths perpendicular to the curve of the grain. the shrinkage is more even and less warping or bowing during drying, which reduces risks of splits and cracks and has best stability in curved structures as it's less inclined to twist.

The red rectangles on the round butt end view of my very crude MSPaint cartoon.

Also following the grain of the wood, the red rectangles on the side log view, this keeps grain slope low. Where sawmills just slice straight down the log along the blue lines. logs.jpg

Having a mill means I can pick my sides myself to avoid the knots and branches, those green shapes in the butt view. As mentioned before, it's not going to be wonderful long 30 foot lengths, but there ought to be some usable wing rib and fuselage bracing angle pieces.

And more to the point currently, it'd be fun entertainment playing with my new mill and giving an eventually useful product stashed in the roofing beams of the shed. whats not aircraft grade can get used around the farm and any knotty crap in the fireplace.
 
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