# Steps to scratch build a VW

Discussion in 'Hangar Flying' started by Little Scrapper, Aug 13, 2019.

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1. Aug 30, 2019

### Little Scrapper

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Thank you.

2. Aug 30, 2019

### Pops

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Not all of the cases are exactly the same. As Bob Hoover says that distance can vary. If you drill to deep with the long drill you can drill out the side of the cam bearing saddle. Not good, will be a why did I get out of bed days
These are Bob's pictures.

3. Aug 30, 2019

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4. Aug 30, 2019

### Vigilant1

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That's what I've been using (the 20-50 VR-1 that has a significant amount of conventional base oil, not the VR-1 full synthetic, because I burn 100LL).

Some people also swear by Rotella, but Sonex specifically recommends against its use (FWIW).

5. Aug 30, 2019

### Pops

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6. Aug 30, 2019

### dmar836

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The flathead guy’s have the same zinc issues. Apparently, after all the oil drama and debates it’s the casting of the cams that’s the issue. The zinc helps, and I will run as much as is appropriate, but isn’t the sole reason for cam lobes being wiped out. It’s not just VWs. As far as I have read/heard though zinc is about all you can do. That and don’t run “high performance” spring pressures for no reason a even if they come in the new kiddie heads. Who has valve float at our rpms? That would be one evil slope!

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7. Aug 31, 2019

### karmarepair

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The video linked up-thread does a good job of describing what can go wrong with drilling the case to get more oil across the engine. I don't have that case anymore, so I'm going by memory. I did not have a very good setup for drilling down from the cam journal, and I think the bit drifted. When I tried to connect that drilling via the gallery drilling, which is sort of self-aligning, the drillings didn't meet. Drill a little more, check, drill, check, and suddenly I'm through the case into the sump, I think via the long drilling through the galleries. But the error was actually from the other direction. It was a junk case anyway, so the fact that welding magnesium isn't in my capability didn't matter, but it made me shy of doing this on a brand new case - $500 at the time, now closer to$900.

I was using a Portalign on a hand drill to try and keep everything straight drilling down from the cam journal. In the video, they set that up on the table of a Bridgeport type mill. If I had to do it again, myself, I'd get the longest drill possible to magnify any mis-alignment, clamp and shim the case to the garage floor or workbench so it was dead nuts square and level, and go REALLY SLOWLY. Maybe use a bubble level ON THE DRILL. Or I'd put my bench drill press on the FLOOR, with the table and the base swung out of the way and the case secured as before.

==========================================

I think it was Pops that mentioned he was challenged making the grooves in the bore of the stock rockers. That bore is quite hard (as in Rockwell hardness), and you have to reach down into it to connect the two oil holes. What I did was get a teeny diamond wheel for my dremel, chucked it as far out of the collet as I dared, and went after it freehand, using the edge of the wheel to form the groove.

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8. Aug 31, 2019

### blane.c

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Their is zinc in the STP then?

9. Aug 31, 2019

### Pops

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Last edited: Aug 31, 2019
10. Aug 31, 2019

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I don't know if you get it in the US, but we use Penrite in older design competition engines - they have a "full zinc" range.

11. Aug 31, 2019

### Pops

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No one in my area cares Valvoline Racing Oil . That is all I used for decades.

12. Aug 31, 2019

### Vigilant1

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Last time I ordered it from the auto parts store, it was still cheaper than Brad Penn.
Last week I saw VR-1 on the shelf at Menards, that surprised me. I'll try there first next time.

13. Aug 31, 2019

### BBerson

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I think Scott Casler said to use Diesel engine crankcase oil for VW.

14. Aug 31, 2019

### Pops

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I can't get anyone in my area to even order it.

15. Aug 31, 2019

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16. Aug 31, 2019

### Pops

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17. Aug 31, 2019

### Dennis DeFrange

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Dam , guys I didn't even like um till I started following . Might look at puttin two of um on my Smith . That would be a first at the Osh . Excellent thread , keep it up .

18. Sep 1, 2019

### 103

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I use the Valvoline VR1
20W-50 in the summer I get it from my local Ag Store for $2.50/quart. IN the Winter I use SHell Rotella T4 10w-30 from the same ag store or many others for$13/gallon. The ZDDP content is high enough for flat tappet engines that have been broken in.

William's Oil Change Video speaks to goo practices and the advantage of ZDDP in flat tappet engines.

19. Sep 1, 2019

### BeemerNut

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Dealing with any flat tappet era engines and vehicles all run flat tappet pre Cat era plus Cat era street legal Calif. vehicles. Adding Comp Cam's Break In Oil Additive at every oil change long before the EPA started slowly reducing zinc and phosphorus in oils. High concentrations of zinc and phosphorus protection era long gone but not the engines. With roller lifter equipped modern engines they can operate without these additives, EPA pushed that bill.

20. Sep 1, 2019

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