Steps to scratch build a VW

Discussion in 'Hangar Flying' started by Little Scrapper, Aug 13, 2019.

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  1. Aug 30, 2019 #481

    Little Scrapper

    Little Scrapper

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    Thank you.
     
  2. Aug 30, 2019 #482

    Pops

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    TAPPET_SCHEMATIC.jpg MODIFIED+SYSTEM.jpg Not all of the cases are exactly the same. As Bob Hoover says that distance can vary. If you drill to deep with the long drill you can drill out the side of the cam bearing saddle. Not good, will be a why did I get out of bed days :)
    These are Bob's pictures.
     
  3. Aug 30, 2019 #483

    radfordc

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  4. Aug 30, 2019 #484

    Vigilant1

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    That's what I've been using (the 20-50 VR-1 that has a significant amount of conventional base oil, not the VR-1 full synthetic, because I burn 100LL).
    Another common recommendation is Brad Penn Penn-Grade 1 Racing 20w50.

    Some people also swear by Rotella, but Sonex specifically recommends against its use (FWIW).
     
  5. Aug 30, 2019 #485

    Pops

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    Add a coupe ounces of STP to add the zinc.
     
  6. Aug 30, 2019 #486

    dmar836

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    The flathead guy’s have the same zinc issues. Apparently, after all the oil drama and debates it’s the casting of the cams that’s the issue. The zinc helps, and I will run as much as is appropriate, but isn’t the sole reason for cam lobes being wiped out. It’s not just VWs. As far as I have read/heard though zinc is about all you can do. That and don’t run “high performance” spring pressures for no reason a even if they come in the new kiddie heads. Who has valve float at our rpms? That would be one evil slope!
     
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  7. Aug 31, 2019 #487

    karmarepair

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    The video linked up-thread does a good job of describing what can go wrong with drilling the case to get more oil across the engine. I don't have that case anymore, so I'm going by memory. I did not have a very good setup for drilling down from the cam journal, and I think the bit drifted. When I tried to connect that drilling via the gallery drilling, which is sort of self-aligning, the drillings didn't meet. Drill a little more, check, drill, check, and suddenly I'm through the case into the sump, I think via the long drilling through the galleries. But the error was actually from the other direction. It was a junk case anyway, so the fact that welding magnesium isn't in my capability didn't matter, but it made me shy of doing this on a brand new case - $500 at the time, now closer to $900.

    I was using a Portalign on a hand drill to try and keep everything straight drilling down from the cam journal. In the video, they set that up on the table of a Bridgeport type mill. If I had to do it again, myself, I'd get the longest drill possible to magnify any mis-alignment, clamp and shim the case to the garage floor or workbench so it was dead nuts square and level, and go REALLY SLOWLY. Maybe use a bubble level ON THE DRILL. Or I'd put my bench drill press on the FLOOR, with the table and the base swung out of the way and the case secured as before.

    ==========================================

    I think it was Pops that mentioned he was challenged making the grooves in the bore of the stock rockers. That bore is quite hard (as in Rockwell hardness), and you have to reach down into it to connect the two oil holes. What I did was get a teeny diamond wheel for my dremel, chucked it as far out of the collet as I dared, and went after it freehand, using the edge of the wheel to form the groove.
     
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  8. Aug 31, 2019 #488

    blane.c

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    Their is zinc in the STP then?
     
  9. Aug 31, 2019 #489

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    Last edited: Aug 31, 2019
  10. Aug 31, 2019 #490

    AdrianS

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    I don't know if you get it in the US, but we use Penrite in older design competition engines - they have a "full zinc" range.
     
  11. Aug 31, 2019 #491

    Pops

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    No one in my area cares Valvoline Racing Oil . That is all I used for decades.
     
  12. Aug 31, 2019 #492

    Vigilant1

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    Last time I ordered it from the auto parts store, it was still cheaper than Brad Penn.
    Last week I saw VR-1 on the shelf at Menards, that surprised me. I'll try there first next time.
     
  13. Aug 31, 2019 #493

    BBerson

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    I think Scott Casler said to use Diesel engine crankcase oil for VW.
     
  14. Aug 31, 2019 #494

    Pops

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    I can't get anyone in my area to even order it.
     
  15. Aug 31, 2019 #495

    radfordc

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  16. Aug 31, 2019 #496

    Pops

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  17. Aug 31, 2019 #497

    Dennis DeFrange

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    Dam , guys I didn't even like um till I started following . Might look at puttin two of um on my Smith . That would be a first at the Osh . Excellent thread , keep it up .
     
  18. Sep 1, 2019 #498

    103

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    I use the Valvoline VR1
    20W-50 in the summer I get it from my local Ag Store for $2.50/quart. IN the Winter I use SHell Rotella T4 10w-30 from the same ag store or many others for $13/gallon. The ZDDP content is high enough for flat tappet engines that have been broken in.

    William's Oil Change Video speaks to goo practices and the advantage of ZDDP in flat tappet engines.

     
  19. Sep 1, 2019 #499

    BeemerNut

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    Dealing with any flat tappet era engines and vehicles all run flat tappet pre Cat era plus Cat era street legal Calif. vehicles. Adding Comp Cam's Break In Oil Additive at every oil change long before the EPA started slowly reducing zinc and phosphorus in oils. High concentrations of zinc and phosphorus protection era long gone but not the engines. With roller lifter equipped modern engines they can operate without these additives, EPA pushed that bill.
    Synthetic about the only advantage I see is it can stand slightly higher temps before breaking down turning into carbon, best used in race engines pushing oil temps to the extreme temp limits already. I also add zinc and phosphorus additives to synthetic oils used in flat tappet engines. Engines requiring leaded gasoline now running on unleaded another engine's slow death exhaust valve seat and valve face disaster, another different topic altogether. Union 76 110 octane leaded gas mixed with unleaded in the 60's & 70's era motorcycles. Redline Lead Substitute additive to unleaded gas out on the road and return trips home. Old leaded valve seat and valve engines maintaining solid valve clearances no recessions. Cams and lifters also not showing any scuffing or wear marks at all on hard working high temp air cooled bike engines. My 2 cents.......~~=o&o>.......
     
  20. Sep 1, 2019 #500

    BeemerNut

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    Hey "103" Valvoline VR1 has great engine oil protection, great for short run engines like drag racing but used on the street gathering miles your gonna end up with a sludge monster really quickly. Ugly buildup within 10,000 miles what I saw on a factory new engine after break in starting with dark a light turning to brown coffee stain looking internals, later mileage sludge starting to build up.
    Even diesel's Delo 400 the good additives have been removed with people still thinking they are protecting their engines when they are not.....~~=o&o>......
     

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