Staple/stapler for builds

Discussion in 'Workshop Tips and Secrets / Tools' started by Geek1945, Nov 25, 2013.

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  1. Apr 26, 2016 #21

    TFF

    TFF

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    That's cool. I can't find sizes. Do they fit normal guns?
     
  2. Apr 26, 2016 #22

    dino

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  3. Apr 26, 2016 #23

    rbrochey

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    Thanks! I ordered an Arrow 9100 stapler/nail gun...uses T 50 1/4 inch staples plus I can use it for other projects. I am SO tempted to leave the staples in... with the little rain we get here in New Mexico and the low humidity I doubt I would ever have anything to worry about... :)

    or try these

    Arrow 504M1 Genuine T50 1/4-Inch Monel Rust Proof Staples, 1,000-Pack


    • 1/4-Inch Monel Rust Proof Staples
    • 1,000 per box
    • Flat crown with 3/8-inch width
    • 100% Corrosion Resistant Staple
    • Ideal for Marine or Outdoor Use
     
  4. May 3, 2016 #24

    Twodeaddogs

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    friends of mine are building a Piet...took 3 lbs of staples out!
     
  5. May 3, 2016 #25

    wsimpso1

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    Not quite true. I adjusted the spring on my plastic cheapo stapler to just drive the staple and set the cross piece to the wood. The steel staplers I know about are held together with circlips on pins, so you can access the spring and bend it a little at a time to adjust the depth.
     
  6. May 3, 2016 #26

    Rockiedog2

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    If you're doing very light stuff like 1/4 cap strip ribs and 1/16 gussets I think you'll find the T50 to be too heavy duty. May be ok on say 1/8" ply.
    Staples are heavy.
     
  7. May 3, 2016 #27

    Pops

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    Yes, that is where I use small aircraft brass nails. Tweezers and a very small tack hammer. I make the small tack hammer from a welding slag pick.
    Staples for plywood sheeting on larger wood frames like fuselage sides, etc, and that's where I use cardboard or thin wood nailing strips and remove the staples after the epoxy is set.

    Dan
     
  8. May 3, 2016 #28

    don january

    don january

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    Dan, My thumb and finger did hurt for a week or two after building the rib's for the EAA bi-plane. Nail's are the way to go, unless Fus. sides or a few other area's
     
  9. May 4, 2016 #29

    rbrochey

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    Yeah they (T50) are a bit much for the light stuff... okay for !/2 and up but I'm switching to the JT21's. And a forward handle hand gun. If I shoot the T 50's through a popsicle stick they seem fine but not quite right still... Thanks!!
     
    lake_harley and Rockiedog2 like this.
  10. May 4, 2016 #30

    deskpilot

    deskpilot

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    A slight deviation here but similar question. When using foam ribs and using plywood caps, glue won't hold the two together, especially if the skin is glued or stitched to the caps. Staples are out of the question but would this system be viable?

    Alternative to staples.jpg
     
  11. May 4, 2016 #31

    Pops

    Pops

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    I use a set of 6" tweeters that you squeeze to release the nail. No hurt fingers.

    Dan
     
  12. May 5, 2016 #32

    lake_harley

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    I'm not condoning it or know if it's a viable way to put wood caps on foam ribs, but I've seen photos of one design that used packing tape that has reinforcing thread imbedded into the tape. It appeared they did a couple "loops" around the rib at a few locations.

    Lynn
     
  13. May 5, 2016 #33

    deskpilot

    deskpilot

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    That stuff dries out and becomes very brittle. Definitely a NO-NO

    As an aside, I'm going to have to find a new avatar as Hugh Lorimer has gifted his 3 planes to a group who are going to restore and fly them. I hope this link is approved.

    Sgian Dubh | Recreational Flying
     
  14. May 5, 2016 #34

    lake_harley

    lake_harley

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    I'm glad I started off with a disclaimer:)

    Lynn
     

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