Sharing builders Experiences

Discussion in 'Workshop Tips and Secrets / Tools' started by don january, Dec 2, 2018.

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  1. Dec 4, 2018 #21

    Little Scrapper

    Little Scrapper

    Little Scrapper

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    Thanks. I penciled out a design today that I think will work. I built a 15" brake many years ago and I still use it, it's been perfect for thinner stock. I decided to copy it pretty close, beef it up, shorten it by 1/2, and improve it slightly. We'll see. I'll post when it's complete.
     
  2. Dec 4, 2018 #22

    Raceair

    Raceair

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    I use heat and a ball peen hammer to make U shaped fittings like that...........
     
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  3. Dec 4, 2018 #23

    Little Scrapper

    Little Scrapper

    Little Scrapper

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    That's the way I do it as well I just think there might be a easier way with a micro brake built like a tank.
     
  4. Dec 4, 2018 #24

    Pops

    Pops

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    Pictures of small brake. The folding bar is to light, same for the clamping plate. Make at least 2X as strong. See, have to use a large C clamp to help. You can't make it to strong. I use 2 long cheater pipes on the handles for extra leverage. Even with the limitations, we have been using this brake for about 20 years in making a lot of 4130 airplane fittings. It will bend 2" long 1/8" thick 4130. Any longer or thicker a hammer helps with the fold.

    Brake setting on a alum fuel tank that Dallas repaired from a Piet that was leaking.
     

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  5. Dec 4, 2018 #25

    Pops

    Pops

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    The brake I made to make the C channels for the Bearhawk tail surfaces. Will make C channels down to 3/8" square 30" long . I needed lots of clamping pressure so I used 3 bottle jacks. Several tons.
    Using 2 -- 16" crescent wrenches for handles because it makes it a lot easier to store with the long handles need. I use 2- long pieces of steel pipe over the wrenches as needed.
     

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  6. Dec 5, 2018 #26

    ScaleBirdsScott

    ScaleBirdsScott

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    SWAG offroad press brake kit for the HF 20-ton press is a pretty useful little tool to have. But it does come out to less-than-useful if your parts and bends start getting into being too small. I've been trying to figure out if there's an easy way to add a liner to the bottom die to allow use of narrower parts, but nothing seems great.

    I've been thinking the best way is a tiny frame to take a simple 12ton bottle jack and make it into a 4" wide or so press-brake that uses cheap import machinists V-block set for the bottoming dies would be my ticket for repeated small brackets. You can flip the V-blocks to either the deep or shallow V, and overall the unit would probably be able to handle some seriously stout material. This would handle that specific task of bending narrow things real good and without taking up a lot of room, but is super specialty for sure.

    Currently, if I have something specifically like a U-bracket that needs bends with a specific width I'd machine a custom die that does both bends at once. Cheap and not that hard to do, especially with any sort of mill; tho with welding I don't think that is even needed. Anyway it works for AK-flats!
     
  7. Dec 5, 2018 #27

    Little Scrapper

    Little Scrapper

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    I just about have this tough little brake figured out. I screwed up a part of it so I need to re make it but I think it's a winner.

    How can I publish free drawings if this does work? I'm not a tech or computer guy so I literally have no clue how to do it. I made some sketches and I'm just going off of that but I can hand draw them better. Assuming it's accurate and the brake works well it would be nice to make some type of PDF's for people to print off so they could make one
     
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  8. Dec 5, 2018 #28

    don january

    don january

    don january

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    Years ago I built a three drum roller for the Nevada dept. of Forestry it was crud and hand operated only but sure would take on the heavy stuff 1/4" steal made her grunt. It was 48" long and sure wish I had it near by. It's hard to beat a 4 ft. finger break would be great but the good old Wilson 6" vice and a hammer has gotten me to the next step a time or two. ;) I suppose rather a tube and fabric or all wood and including composite aircraft when a designer or builder needs to factor in ease of the metal work and tools required should be thought out clearly before even starting the build. I guess that's were getting your work area and tools set up first is a key.
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2018
  9. Dec 17, 2018 #29

    don january

    don january

    don january

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    Wanted to bring light to the Great thread FritzW started about a Corben baby Ace being built by students.Tho the plane is in build mode I believe the class is on the right track by taking the step's to actually reach out for material and hardware and those who participate will be sharing the experiences. :cool:
     
  10. Dec 27, 2018 #30

    proppastie

    proppastie

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    although in the past working for precision sheet metal shops.....it is so nice to have professional tools ......press breaks...etc. but if at home when I need to bend say .125 steel u-bracket... the part blank is cut larger than required. I have a properly sized wood or aluminum radius insert for the inside dimension. get out the torch... heat it cherry bend it over the form, when cool I would trim to size with a steel cutting wheel mounted on an arbor or in a table saw.

    be sure to use eye protection, and good dust mask for the fiber-glass particles of the wheel
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2018
  11. Dec 28, 2018 #31

    don january

    don january

    don january

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    A heads up for Little Scrapper. I found a table that would be great for mounting a Router under. Was lucky enough to find a match to go with my larger jig table. a table 1.jpg a table.jpg . :gig: Best part is if I need more Hard wood I can just cut it up.:) Challenge to spot where I'am drying some ply into shape can ya see it?
     
  12. Dec 28, 2018 #32

    lr27

    lr27

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    Seems like all this bending of really thick metal is a lot of trouble. If there's some kind of affordable epoxy that's somewhat heat resistant and doesn't creep, seems like composite might be a better way to go. I guess that's a big if.
     

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