rivet ??s

[oldcrow]

for a 1/8 inch dia. rivet are there any substitutions for a solid aluminum rivet ie.. s.s. blind rivet or cherry max rivets
this will be for the frame of the "Texas Parasol"

 

[proppastie]

yes but much more expensive and depending on what you decide can loosen up over time (supposedly because they do not fill the hole as well as a driven rivet)......this certainly is subject to dispute because of many aircraft that use pull rivets ....however these aircraft were perhaps designed with larger or more rivets than would be required for a driven rivet. design.....the stock answer to a question like this is STICK TO THE PLANS.

 

[Victor Bravo]

'Pastie has it correct above, and it cannot be overstated that the solid rivets are better at dealing with imperfect holes. It is very very rare in aviation where the cheapest solution is also the lightest and strongest and longest lasting. Old fashioned solid rivets are one of those examples.

If you want to use pull rivets (Avex, Cherry, Huck, etc. etc.) then you can do it, but you do need to put extra time and care into making sure you have perfectly drilled, reamed, and deburred holes. That extra time could be more trouble than learning how to use a rivet squeezer or a bucking bar. Really.

One of the Parasol guys in Canada did a website article about rivet diameter and how many rivets to use for each gusset, etc. Well worth reading.

Chuck Beeson designed the Parasol the way he did because the angle and gussets allowed you to use a hand squeezer, and not have to use a pneumatic gun. Once you get a hand squeezer set up correctly and with only a little practice, it really is simple. Same with the rivet gun and bucking bar too. The fear of learninghow to rivet is far far worse than actually learning to rivet. Trust me, I know this from experience.

 

[Protech Racing]

 

[Protech Racing]

SS rivets are pretty strong. The Hobiecat uses a few to hold this tang onto the mast. Total loading has to be near 2000#. The main sheet uses a 7 or 9 to one block ratio with 2 crew hanging on the trap wires.

Do your own test if you change from the plans of course.
I tested 3/16 SS pop rivets and the material failed well before the rivets . The steel pinned aluminum failed pretty easy on a straight shear t est

 

[BJC]

View attachment 106522

Nipping off the corners of the thimbles will make it easier to have the cable snug around when crimping.


BJC

 

[Protech Racing]

I just nipped the pic off of the web . I dont own a Hobie any more. But the Rivets gained a lot of respect from me . I pulled on the sheet as hard as I could. The mast never fell down

 

[oldcrow]

thanks all. i guess i will use solid rivets. besides a friend of the family has a rivet gun and bucking bar set that he'll let me borrow.

 

[Rockiedog2]

Zenith uses a countersunk pull rivet and a cup shaped rivet set to turn it into a dome head rivet. Steel mandrel so it sets tight. You might wanta check into that it’s been highly successful on all the Zeniths out there. ACS has the rivets. The rivet set has to be machined to a cup shape . ZAC does that for their builders. I like an air puller cause it hits the rivet so hard and seems to set it max tight

 

[BBerson]

The Zenith (Avex) rivets are about 1/3 the shear (110 pounds shear listed in ACS) of solid AD rivets.

 

[karmarepair]

Pulled rivets are crap in fatigue compared to the same size AD rivet. You could go up one size and use stainless pull rivets, at about ten times the cost per rivet, but other posters are correct, using a squeezer it's DEAD EASY to set driven rivets; quiet too.

 

[karmarepair]

Nipping off the corners of the thimbles will make it easier to have the cable snug around when crimping.
BJC

That looks like someone tried crimping 1X19, which is a No-No, especially with only one sleeve. I'll bet the original shrouds had a swaged fork. I NEVER made a crimp eye that looked that bad in my mis-spent youth, making thousands of them, but with 7X7 or 7X19, and NEVER for Standing Rigging. There were people who did it, but they usually tried 1X19 like it was a solid bar, plastically pre-forming the eyes, and using two crimp sleeves. I would not drink with those people, or sail on their generally Ferro-Cement yachts.

Back to our discussion of rivets....

 

[robertl]

I took the rivet head out of my pneumatic rivet gun, clamped it into the drill press vice and heated it cherry red, (taking the temper out of it) After it cooled I used a 5/16 or 3/8 bit to drill a cup into the rivet head. I then put some Scotch-Brite material on a wooden dowel using a zip tie and put the dowel into the drill press and smoothed out the cupped area. Worked great.
Bob

 

[PTAirco]

thanks all. i guess i will use solid rivets. besides a friend of the family has a rivet gun and bucking bar set that he'll let me borrow.

Get a rivet squeezer. Much easier than bucking and you can do it on your own. There are likely very few places where you can't get at with a rivet squeezer in that type of structure.