Ragwing RW19 wood and fabric Stork (Storch)

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John wadman

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66205B4D-5B91-4475-A3BE-9472818459C8.jpeg E14961F4-6A24-45E5-BD4B-EC9C2182E766.jpeg Well, I sanded the cowl mold with 400 grit and wiped it down. Then I applied two generous coats of an auto paste wax and rubbed them out. I then applied a layer of fiberglass mat and overlapped all of the joints. Mat lays or blends better if you tear the edges. Then a single layer of boat cloth also overlapping the joints. I cut tapes from the left over cloth and laid them over the joints where front meets sides, top and bottom. So all of the joints have at least five layers of fiberglass. I will wait until tomorrow when it’s dry and hit it with a quick sanding, wipe the dust off and then wet it out with hot coats of resin. It needs to have enough resin in it so that none of the texture of the cloth is apparent. Then it gets a good sanding with the pneumatic orbital sander! It should cone out completely smooth and faired after sanding , ready to clean and paint!
 

John wadman

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May 27, 2019
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204
F6C4E12C-D43D-45D8-96D8-97074AF1B568.jpeg 82C66E08-1DA1-4470-A12C-BC5461E2C16E.jpeg I’m still not working in the RW 19/20 because too many projects, like doing the firewall forward in the RW6 and building my wife her dream house. Got the cowl off the mould (took a bit of work to get it unstuck with a long flexible metal ruler sliding it all around to pop the part from the mound) and marked and cut holes for cylinders and those valve rod tubes as well as the intake tubes. Have to fix the firewall a bit as it isn’t perfectly centered. It slipped when installing motor mount. I didn’t screw it to the other plywood firewall first. Figured I’d use less fasteners if I used the motor mount bolts to hold it in place. Bad call! But I can fix it so cowl fits better.
 

John wadman

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Had to take care of some business at the builders supply company today so went out in the warehouse afterwards and hallelujah, what did I find? A whole new shipment of 1 x 4s in 14 and 16 ‘ lengths. Spent an hour going through them and found about ten boards that showed promise. Took them out into the light and carefully went over them and left with three 14s and two 16s. $116 bucks. I stacked them with the other six 14s and a 16 I had in the the shop. As far as longerons or spar caps go, I’d be lucky to get two 3/4 x 3/4 pieces from a single 2 x 4. I have maybe three boards that I might get two from, maybe. My spar caps will be 3/4” x 1 1/2” (two pieces laminated together) with 1/4 ply webs front and I think the rears are 1/8”. To get the best possible pieces most boards will have to be ripped at a slight angle from end to end. The plans show the spars as C section but I’m going to mill a 1/8” deep x 1/4” wide groove down the middle of one edge and epoxy the ply web into that. So the cross section is more of an I section than a C section. In a conversation once, Roger told me that this is stronger. My first plane, an LMA 87% Taylorcraft, had spars like this! Any true aeronautical engineers out there can pipe on in about which is stronger. (Please support with math and science) I have almost enough lumber to get all of my spar caps out of now. Once I have sixteen good boards I’ll head out to the cabinet shop and set up the table saw with feathering boards to hold the boards tight to fence and tight to table. I’ll cut clean ends from the boards to show the end grain and the edge grain and add photos soon.
 

John wadman

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204
C876A1C6-C226-409C-84E4-C6452699A4CE.jpeg 27B9563C-E417-4871-84DF-346086EE1C32.jpeg 27CAD9C8-41F0-4DF3-AD93-992FC1F2C934.jpeg I glued some flanges to the bottom half of cowl to help align and fasten top half to. We cleaned up the flanges and prefit the cowl. I have some final trimming to do but she’s looking fairly good. Just have to figure out the hike for the intake and the air filter. It’s my understanding that those oil tubes around the carb manifold are basically carb heat constant to prevent carb icing. That makes intake easier and lighter. In the front view photo you can see the hot air outlet duct in hat allows airflow out the bottom. Also visible is the hole for the gasolator.
 

John wadman

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Joined
May 27, 2019
Messages
204
261D4992-67E1-4D98-874A-3ABFAC30D28A.jpeg 1B76C11B-8257-415E-8D20-D9459B09BB94.jpeg I’m in the process of mounting the cowl but I first wanted to add some stiffeners and some reinforcing tapes in the areas where the fasteners will go. You can see the darker areas along the vertical edges both right side and left side and the two horizontal ridges in each side. The ridges get their shape from pieces of thick card stock that I dug out of the mail recycle bin. I cut 4 strips about 1” wide and folded them down the middle. Then I just glassed over these ridges with 3 layers of glass. These will keep the sides of the cowl from vibrating or “oil canning” in the wind. Also fabricated 8 structural aluminum 1” x 1” x 3/4” wide angles that will screw to firewall and allow me to fasten the cowl to. I’ll post about those tomorrow. I also promised to trim just the dark ends off the boards I bought for framing the RW 19/20 and add photos so people can see the end grain to better understand how I get a spar cap or longeron out of a 1 x 4. Photos coming.
 
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