Ragwing RW19 wood and fabric Stork (Storch)

Discussion in 'Member Project Logs' started by John wadman, Jul 26, 2019.

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  1. Sep 3, 2019 #41

    John wadman

    John wadman

    John wadman

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    D8B40695-C1F2-4A61-A4BC-439C0C791D96.jpeg Sooo depressed! Weighted my drilled wheel, hub, brake hub, brake drum and lug nut combo and I only saved 7 oz. I couldn’t believe the math so I went back and weighed the parts again. Either holes don’t weigh as much as I thought OR the postal place has “fixed” their scales to charge more. Very bummed. BUT. . . Those drilled parts look super light so there’s the psychological factor. . . So that’s nice!
     
  2. Sep 5, 2019 #42

    John wadman

    John wadman

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    E04F61AA-EBA1-477E-B2DD-ED70A2033B0F.jpeg 3575C749-8137-4E3D-8965-05A64B5B0891.jpeg Found these urethane bushings at Advanced Auto. They were hanging in a peg in the front area of the store in performance section. This is packaging. 8 in a pack with nice thick grade 8 washers. Thinking of using these for my 1/2 VW engine mount bushings.
     
  3. Sep 6, 2019 #43

    John wadman

    John wadman

    John wadman

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    Building the motor mount. Welding is fun.
     
  4. Sep 12, 2019 #44

    John wadman

    John wadman

    John wadman

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    87827DD1-40BC-47FB-A975-A3F27387C7DC.jpeg 87827DD1-40BC-47FB-A975-A3F27387C7DC.jpeg MIGing up the motor mount for the RW-6. I have one more piece to cut/fit/tack and then I can get serious about burning wire and finish welding the whole “mess”. Yeah! Yeah! I know! TIG or Acetylene torch. Don’t have either of those but I do have a MIG so. . . I’ll have some cleanup to do with the special grinder bits I bought at Sun N Fun. I did the gear legs and they’re strong and pretty nice to look at after cleaning up the welds. I’ll post a finished photo once it’s finished and cleaned.
     
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  5. Sep 12, 2019 #45

    John wadman

    John wadman

    John wadman

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    Why did it post photo twice?
     
  6. Sep 13, 2019 #46

    John wadman

    John wadman

    John wadman

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    I cut/fit/tacked the entire motor mount and then made the mistake of taking it off the airframe and removed the motor to finish weld it. Can you believe that two of the engine mount bolts ended up 3/4” off center to center from the heat of the welding process? I had to grind and cut the thing apart and replace pieces and reweld the mount in place. I think I have it now.
     
  7. Sep 14, 2019 #47

    John wadman

    John wadman

    John wadman

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    Welding the mount in place causes a problem. If you chose to do it this way you’ll need to make some wooden bushings (preferably of a very hard wood like oak or harder) with a hole saw that fit in place of the rubber or urethane bushings. Rubber and urethane dislike the temperatures of the welding process and will catch fire and melt at an alarmingly fast rate. The flames, smell and smoke created are very unpleasant and remind me of a very bad experience I had once in a Banana Republic during an anti-American riot. Being that I am an American made it an even less desirable a place to be! Nuff said! You might be wondering how I know so much about these things. Experience! I’m a man of experience! Was lucky to find new bushings at Advance Auto Parts for $5 plus tax per corner of the engine. (About $22). The wood will catch fire too but it disintegrates at a much slower rate! I’d recommend having a fire extinguisher handy but a soaking wet rag works good to douse the flames. It’s actually beneficial to let the weld cool slowly but the plane is wood and fabric and the sticks of the airframe would make perfect kindling to burn the entire shop down . . . So use common sense. It’s a trade off.
     
  8. Sep 15, 2019 #48

    John wadman

    John wadman

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    55F48B1B-5BC0-4ACE-AAB5-7F14BF98FE57.jpeg Motor mount is finished and painted. I got three of the firewall bolts to line up but the fourth is a slight bugger. I’ll need my son to pull down and to the right as I tap it in from inside. I have to replace the hex nuts with approved locknuts. But hopefully tomorrow we can mount the engine and put that last bolt in.
     
  9. Sep 16, 2019 #49

    John wadman

    John wadman

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    A74A3132-3EFC-413A-824E-E9F58080F5D6.jpeg My son Andres helped some guy move a bed and noticed a wrecked dirt bike in the garage. The guy was going to “throw it away” but didn’t want to haul it to dump and pay weight so Andres scored a dirt bike with broken front fork yokes. Looks like I may have my front gear for the Storch partially worked out. Being that these are off a racing dirt bike they have looots of travel!
     
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  10. Sep 24, 2019 #50

    John wadman

    John wadman

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    That beautiful black motor mount doesn't work. Two of the diagonals interfere with the intake. With vibration there just isn't going to be enough room so that the manifold doesn't touch the mount and that will cause something to fatigue eventually. I scrapped it and started over and then got too busy with the home build to finish it yet. Bummed. Good news is that I'm taking my sons to the Petite Le Mans GT and Prototype races at Road Atlanta early next month for Andres' 28th birthday. We are leaving in the night on Thursday to arrive at Aircraft Spruce on Friday morning first thing to buy all of the plywood for the STOL Ragwing bush plane. I hope the weather is good. We will camp out at the track but I need to wrap the plywood really well as it will be in the back of the Dodge for the weekend.
     
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  11. Oct 4, 2019 #51

    John wadman

    John wadman

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    We built a new motor mount and I think this one is going to work. Photos to follow once it’s cleaned up.
     
  12. Oct 11, 2019 #52

    John wadman

    John wadman

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    Have the new (second attempt) motor mount for the RW6 welded together but still have to clean it up and paint it. It incorporates a 1/4" aluminum plate mounted to the back of the motor with the rubber bushings set up. The plate allows me to move the tubes of the welded portion to better locations to allow clearance for the intake manifold, etc.The plan now is to drive to Peach Tree City GA and get the plywood for the RW 19-20 on our way to Road Atlanta to watch Le Petit Le Mans endurance auto race. 10 ours of prototype cars and Gt cars. It's my oldest sons 28th b day so both sons and i are going to the race as a bday present.
     
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  13. Oct 27, 2019 #53

    John wadman

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    47636705-56A5-41F1-9EEC-ACE3EAC01F8E.jpeg F07597E1-AEE5-48C4-9E1D-9BB847A20474.jpeg Used this weekend to sand the new motor mount and paint it. I also laid out the mount plate and cut and drilled all holes. I’m ready to mount the engine tomorrow. The bushings fit in the four 7/8” holes and mount to the engine back to isolate and dampen vibration. The plate gets bolted to the motor mount. The keyhole is for the magneto and the cutout at bottom is for oil drain plug and carb mount clearance. I still have to level the airframe, put the motor in the stand and level and align it, mark the four mount holes, drill them and bolt it all together.
     
  14. Nov 18, 2019 #54

    John wadman

    John wadman

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    Not part of the STOL build BUT, the 1/2 VW is mounted on the RW6 and is ready for fuel system hookup and the control cables for the throttle/choke. I'll make a drawing of the fuel lines with fittings and dimensions and drop it by the hydraulic place. they will make it up with aeroquip. I looked at one of those Sonex throttle control levers and did some R & D and made my own with cool parts from the parts bins at my local Sunshine Ace hardware store. So its just to bolt it into the cockpit with two screws and route the cables through firewall.

    On the RW19/20 I did accomplish something important this week. I went to a meeting at the lumber yard that is supplying my home trusses and afterwards went through the rack of 1 x 4s of clear bald Cypress. I found six 14 foot boards that I could get two 3/4 x 3/4 x 14 pieces out of for laminating the spar caps or use for longerons. Nice straight grain with no run out and plenty of grain lines per inch. So basically only 1 1/2 inches of a 3 1/2 inch wide board I would consider usable, usable defined as being as perfect as GOD created it. In other planes and kits I've seen, the builders would have used the entire board and many of those planes are flying examples.

    I'm going to start on the cowl mold this week. going to build a foam male mold and then glass over it. I get it pretty close to sanded shape and then cover it with joint compound but I have a trick that speeds up the sanding and fairing of the joint compound. I learned it from an old boatbuilder to apply epoxy microballoon fairing compound. I used it on my taylorcraft replica cowl mold and it works as well with joint compound as it does with epoxy microballoons. I'll post photos when i get to that as building cowl moulds is a time consuming task as it is. This will cut your time for fairing waaaaay down!
     
  15. Nov 24, 2019 #55

    John wadman

    John wadman

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    DCFA5868-6E70-474C-A019-39D4BD53C6DF.jpeg F851A25E-7A00-4AFB-B98F-DD05F7CF3B1A.jpeg Well, the engine is mounted in the RW6 and I’m designing and building the fuel system. It will be a basic cowl tank gravity feed system to a firewall mounted strainer to the carb. The fuel gauge will be the dual tube (90 degree ram air and vertical tube for 1/8” piano wire and cork float) system. Pretty basic. That’s the shop crew in the first photo. They’re a big encouragement and help, as long as I don’t leave parts on the floor. Anything on the floor is fair game. They’re supposed to be retrievers but I’ve found that they seldom retrieve the stuff they steal! Sometimes stuff disappears but it can usually be found in the yard.
     
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  16. Nov 30, 2019 #56

    John wadman

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    Once again, not the RW19/20 but I’m getting the little plane closer to testing. I got the gasolator installed, the hose to carb made, the fittings and fuel shutoff installed on the tank and made my throttle/choke control. Just need to paint the control tomorrow and it will be ready to bolt in. 44396DDB-F948-4857-85DE-2ECAAF831E37.jpeg 6775D3A3-EB48-48A6-AC97-085C748BEA5B.jpeg
     
  17. Dec 8, 2019 at 10:45 PM #57

    John wadman

    John wadman

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    CF9B6976-63FF-4BA2-AB46-21890DA31934.jpeg 31F80EA9-BEEF-462E-9713-B0FFBACB94F3.jpeg A37F4217-08C0-44A9-926A-56D7292586E4.jpeg Building the male mold for the two piece cowling. Just have to wrap the top part around the mold with a piece of flexible fiberglass and glue it, fair the glue joint, final sand the “plug” or mold, seal and wax it and start laying up layers of boat cloth. The heads and most of the jugs stick out in the prop wash for cooling. Might add some little scoops to direct air to the backside of the jugs.
     
  18. Dec 11, 2019 at 11:06 PM #58

    John wadman

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    Once again, nothing new to report on the RW 19/20. . . BUT I'm working on the RW 6 and trying to finish firewall forward. I found about this web site too late to start a build log on it, so I'm tagging it on to the RW 19/20 build log. Fabicated the throttle/choke control and painted it. Ready to install. Engine is mounted but requires Castle nuts and safety wiring. Made the mold for the cowling and got it varnished to seal it up so I can wax it and lay up glass. IMG_20191211_172015.jpg IMG_20191211_171941.jpg IMG_20191211_171958.jpg
     
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  19. Dec 11, 2019 at 11:13 PM #59

    John wadman

    John wadman

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    The radiuses on this cowling are from 3/8 to 1 1/2". The top is about 6" radius. It looks a bit boxy and the front is flat with about a 1 1/2" radius into the top and sides BUT, I think with a prop spinner it will draw attention away from the flat front behind the spinner. I think it will look 1920s old world and fine.
     
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  20. Dec 11, 2019 at 11:35 PM #60

    John wadman

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    I reread a previous post and realized that I had mentioned how I built my last cowling mold and I had originally intended to build this one the same. . . with foam and then joint compound fairing. It's a hell of a lot of work and sanding to do it that way (foam dust everywhere including body orifices) but if you want a really rounded shape, that's the best way to do it. I researched photos of 1920s and 1930s cowlings (non radial) and decided on a simpler design that I could make from 1/8" plywood sides and bottom, 3/4" ply back former, 3/4" ply internals supports and two layers 3/4" ply for the front. I used a flexible piece of fiberglass that I had left over from the other cowl mold from the area that covers the tank and instruments as the top BUT, before I added it to the mold I used bondo to make very generous fillets inside the mold so I cold radius the joints where bottom meets sides. Lots of bondo applied with a wide plastic spreader rounded to about a 3" radius. This cowling mold was built in a few hours and is ready to use to lay up my cowling. Granted, it's NOT super round like a J3 cowl but I think it will look 1920ish. I have four hours into it and all it needs is one more coat of varnish to be ready.
     
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