Ragwing RW19 wood and fabric Stork (Storch)

Discussion in 'Member Project Logs' started by John wadman, Jul 26, 2019.

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  1. Aug 18, 2019 #21

    John wadman

    John wadman

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    349B00B2-C4C4-4F54-8A3F-65ADA2D9B1CB.jpeg 4F06543D-15CC-4D13-945C-8E583E6F27C5.jpeg Well, I made some new sticks to destroy to redo the test of the solid piece and the piece with three 1/4” laminates glued horizontal, but here’s the problem: I didn’t have any suitable wood left from the board that I cut previous samples from so I chose another real nice looking piece. I tried two solid pieces, one with grain running horizontal to load and one with grain vertical to load! BOTH got to 205 lbs (maximum amount of weight I can load in bucket) and neither broke. So this board is obviously much stronger than the last one. So now I’m thinking that I need to make up two more complete sets of samples and figure out how to add more weight to the bucket. Maybe I can fasten 30 lbs to the bottom of the bucket with fasteners. I’m thinking that I need to test three complete sets and then average all
    of the figures to get a more realistic comparison. Bummer! Here’s another thought, today is super humid, talking killer humidity! Do you suppose that the moisture content of the wood went up some and changed it’s properties some?
     
  2. Aug 19, 2019 #22

    mcrae0104

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    Could you use smaller sticks maybe?
     
  3. Aug 22, 2019 #23

    John wadman

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    5EAE9193-F1C2-415D-B9F4-C3D93FB3E542.jpeg I made a template for that large top forward gusset on the wing ribs and webbed it to get rid of some weight. I cut out enough for every rib. I also cut out all of the flap/aileron ribs. The ribs on the right are the 1/4” solid end ribs where hinge straps mount and have no lightening holes to keep rats , birds, lizards, snakes etc out.
     
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2019
  4. Aug 25, 2019 #24

    John wadman

    John wadman

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    IMG_20190825_174627.jpg IMG_20190825_174540.jpg View attachment 88112 View attachment 88112 you guys are probably getting tired of seeing me post photos of wing ribs on the jig. Yeah, well I'm getting tired of putting them on the jig. misery loves company. . . suffering is always better when there's someone there to suffer with you, right? Anyway, two more almost down and nine more to go. I know it's not part of the RW 19/20 build but I covered an aileron for the RW6 also. Just have to iron the fabric into the glue and shrink it. All I have left to do on that plane is cover and paint the ailerons and mount the motor and hook up fuel and throttle.
     
  5. Aug 26, 2019 #25

    John wadman

    John wadman

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    Madwing professor of RW19 storch build and I have been comparing notes on our builds and we both decided to use the same tires for our STOLS. Here is the tire, wheel, bearing hub, brake hub and brake drum I've decided to go with. I used these same brakes on a previous wood and fabric airplane that I built of a similar weight and performance as the RW 19/20 and they worked well. It's the old saying: go with what you know. Tire is a Nanco 21 x 12 x 8. Wheel is steel 8 x 8.5 wide 4 on 4 bolt pattern (aluminum wheels are available for this too). Hub is Azusa with sealed 3/4" roller bearings. Brake and drum are 4.5" and also from Azusa. Screenshot 2019-08-21 at 10.44.23 AM.png Screenshot 2019-08-19 at 10.37.41 PM.png Screenshot 2019-08-14 at 10.50.02 PM.png Screenshot 2019-08-23 at 10.07.08 PM.png Screenshot 2019-08-23 at 10.07.32 PM.png
     
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  6. Aug 26, 2019 #26

    John wadman

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    here's a better photo of the Nanco model N 800 tire. Screenshot 2019-08-26 at 11.20.43 AM.png
     
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  7. Aug 26, 2019 #27

    John wadman

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    FedEx just contacted me and said they are delivering my Scott Casler built 45hp 1/2 VW thing-of-beauty today. Hope to have the RW6 crow hopping and taxi running in a month. I'm going to need something to fly while I'm building the STOL plane.
     
  8. Aug 26, 2019 #28

    John wadman

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    6C81E744-F3BE-4DF5-9B9E-650B04771E21.jpeg There she is! Happy days! Time to roll out the airframe into the driveway, level her up, build a wooden stand to support this work art by the master, Scott Casler and cut and weld a mount together. YES!
     
  9. Aug 28, 2019 #29

    John wadman

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    18777C00-0467-46EF-8531-CBAC9ED7C852.jpeg Got my wheels and hubs today and tomorrow the brakes are supposed to arrive. These wheels and hubs are a lot heavier than the 6” wheels and hubs I used in the LMA Taylor craft I built. I’m thinking of buying some 2” diam aluminum tubing and some 1 7/8” aluminum washers and welding up new hubs. The tapered races for the bearings are pressed into these hubs so I could press them out and install them in the new aluminum hubs to receive the sealed tapered roller bearings. These wheels are a heavier gauge steel than the white steel 6” wheels also. I did see 8” aluminum wheels but they were more expensive. Hmmmm, what to do? Weight weight weight! An airplanes worst enemy! Skipping breakfast and visiting the pilot lounge bathroom before every flight would just about make up for the difference in weight but how practical is that?
     
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  10. Aug 29, 2019 #30

    John wadman

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    005FD8D0-763C-4EA2-8CF2-88007A3AD9E3.jpeg 15D754EA-ED5C-4328-9E4D-2E42E20170C7.jpeg View attachment 88230 View attachment 88230 We are putting the final paint coat on the left wing and are designing the mount for the 1/2 VW for the RW6. Work will almost stop on the RW19/20 until this puppy is flying. Once the little bird is airworthy we’ll wail on the big bird with a vengeance! I’m setting two goals on the STOL. . . 2 1/2 years and under $10,000. That’s what I’m aiming at. This is Andres, my oldest son, shooting the final coat. He’s the one that talked me into building the STOL! That kid is a great influence on me!
     
  11. Aug 29, 2019 #31

    John wadman

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    The steel wheel, hub, bearing, lug nuts package weights 8 lbs 12.5 oz per side. (Scroll up three photos)A bit hefty for my liking. I could drill the heck outta the wheel center and make it look like Swiss cheese without completely destroying the structural integrity but would be lucky to lose a pound per wheel. Could do the same to the hub I suppose. It would look like a race car brake disc when done. Tempting!
     
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  12. Aug 30, 2019 #32

    John wadman

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    I have the wheels and hubs and the cost of sending them back doesn't make financial sense so I'm going with them. I am going to apply race car technology and lighten them. Anywhere I can drill holes and not substantially compromise their structural properties I'm drilling. I'm going to get as much weight off of these as possible. I'm drilling the rim centers, the hub flanges, the drum brake mechanism backs and maybe even the drums themselves. The weight is coming off. I'll reweigh the assemblies when finished and post the savings.
     
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  13. Aug 30, 2019 #33

    John wadman

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    I researched drilling brake drums (auto and Motorcycle) and everything I read advises against it. Now I understand that most hard braking would be done at under 25 mph and therefore the arguments that a apply for 3000 lb cars don't really apply. I still might try it just as a weight saving technique. I've read all of the arguments and the reality is that we aren't continuously braking and heating up the brakes. We generally apply the brakes at a full stop to do a run up or short field takeoff. In this mode there is isn't the kind of friction that causes heat in the brakes. And on a STOL aircraft weighing 550 lbs any hard breaking is going to be one time for a distance of 70 feet or usually less. . . normally 50% less on landing. Being that the Azusa 4 1/2" drums are as inexpensive as they are and that the plane will stop by itself without brakes I'm tempted to try drilling them. I can test them in wet landings to see if the water layer between the drums and linings reduce stopping power and if the holes warp or weaken the drums.
     
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  14. Aug 30, 2019 #34

    John wadman

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    I decided to stay with the HD hubs, steel wheels and sealed 3/4” tapered roller bearings. As you can see, I applied Swiss cheese technology to the hub on the bottom. I can feel the difference. Once the wheels, brake hubs and brake drums are drilled I’ll weigh them again. I’ll do an entire set and leave the other set until I can weight both drilled and undrilled and give you an accurate comparison. I’ll use a postal scale. Goal is to reduce each assembly by at least two lbs! 1B43D6BE-12DA-414A-BEB9-0E84A9004030.jpeg
     
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  15. Aug 30, 2019 #35

    John wadman

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    21DC5C4C-12C8-4126-8369-297E5772EA60.jpeg I probably could have drilled two 3/4” diameter holes between each lug hole and shaved a slight bit more weight off but I opted for a single 7/8” hole between each lug. I used a stepped bit. Started on the drill press. Unless you have a mongo drill press that’ll bore holes to China don’t waste your time! Get a half inch electric drill motor and set it a little slower than normal. Then apply steady pressure! Lube with oil as you go! It’ll get through soooooo much faster! The wheels actually look better with these holes. I’m going to drill the brake hubs even though they are aluminum and drill the steel brake drums. All of you race car and hotrod guys are going to lecture me on drilling the brake drums. I know! I know! But this is NOT a hotrod nor a race car and the braking requirements are totally different. Weight savings is more important. Trust me! These drums will never get hot enough to fatigue crack! Even if you are practicing STOL takeoffs and landings in the pattern, you’re using the brakes literally for seconds and then air cooling them at 75 mph flying around the field for minutes! Don’t freak out! I’m not going to drill the crap out if them like I did the hubs! Small holes spaced well apart (unless I’m having so much fun drilling holes that I get carried away. . .)
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2019
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  16. Aug 31, 2019 #36

    John wadman

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    Here’s how I lay out the hole patterns on wheels, hubs, brakes etc. with a compass I draw the circle and the lines that I want to use for hole centers on a piece of copy paper. Cut it out with scissors. Spray a must coat of adhesive and stick the paper pattern on the part. Use a center marker tool thingy to mark holes in metal part. AE59E88F-6285-4592-9CBF-0D5B34EDE3BB.jpeg 49BCB030-A062-4A86-A6D0-C556D86CA3B0.jpeg C651FC42-D7CE-4E03-9040-12E8C884E428.jpeg FFD90C4D-0EE3-47CD-9B77-2A8FA1B0A95A.jpeg Remove paper pattern. Drill holes
     
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  17. Aug 31, 2019 #37

    John wadman

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    D39BE798-2F20-458D-B152-382E3C4017BB.jpeg 652527FE-A511-4208-9C8C-B6D09F8020D6.jpeg Here’s the brake drum ready to install. It’s been drilled, all holes counter sunk to remove burrs and the inside honed to leave a smooth surface for the brake linings to run on. I can feel the difference in weight.
     
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  18. Sep 1, 2019 #38

    John wadman

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    D3CAC371-E63B-4503-B8C9-0DBF07804144.jpeg EEF59BC4-C11E-409D-8460-A2F2B74D9DEA.jpeg Alright, so technically this isn’t about the RW 19/20 build. . . BUT, the RW 6 left wing is painted and ready to be put in the overhead rack in the garage. I’m priming the ailerons and then will paint and mount them. The tubing for the motor mount gets ordered Monday, or Tuesday if the metal place is closed Monday for Labor Day or a hurricane-that-never-happened party! With the work table free I can start building the tail surfaces for the RW 19/20. Once the motor mount is built it’s control hookups and testing of the “6”. The 19/20 will progress slowly over the next two years as building my wife’s retirement home comes first. But I’m hoarding parts and nice boards when I find them and researching and designing the main and tail gear, systems, etc. I’m designing a tailwheel that works like a formula car suspension and will have about 4” travel on one of those little mountain bike monoshocks via a suspension pushrod and a control arm mounted to a bell crank. The shock will be mounted in the fuselage tail out of the slipstream for less drag.
     
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  19. Sep 1, 2019 #39

    John wadman

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    Both my wife and brother-in-law are talking about learning to fly. That would be cool. We could do some cross countries in the STOL plane! I’ll bet I can talk her into camping on a river bar or lakeside for one night and then it’ll be a fancy bed and breakfast for one night ( okay, three! Whatever!)
     
  20. Sep 3, 2019 #40

    John wadman

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    73576C4C-4772-4334-923B-234C747AFF69.jpeg Another non RW 19/20 post. . . But it IS getting me closer to getting the STOL built. These are the ailerons for the RW 6 getting first coat of paint. I’m ordering tubing and bushings for the motor mount today. Also about to take the Nanco N800 tire, RMI steel wheel, drilled hub, drilled brake drum, drilled brake hub and lug nots to the postal center and weight them to give you all an update on how much weight you can get off this setup. Will post results tonight. Remember, my goal is two pounds per side. Who’s the bookie? Place your bets!
     
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