Pull Rivet Material Type

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TFF

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Depends on how you designed it , but I would want to go aluminum. Steel on aluminum tends to be hardware store type on simple designs.
 

proppastie

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I use SS from Bay State, almost as strong an solid AD rivets. The AD rivets are better/less expensive all around, I only use the pull rivets where I can not get the bucking bar. If I really need strength in a pull rivet I use a Cherry-Max.
 

GESchwarz

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No, this would be aircraft quality stainless steel blind rivets. I am leaning toward them because they would be as strong as solid aluminum rivets. But I am thinking that if I am using -4 blind aluminum rivets, would that be a suitable replacement for a -3 solid aluminum rivet?

I am using -3 solid aluminum rivets on the top wing skins but I must use blind rivets on the bottom because I cannot reach inside when I am riveting the bottom skins. So I am wondering if -4 aluminum rivets wold be okay.
 

TFF

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There is a slight galvanic potential. Just depends on alloys and coatings and environment. As a coddled homebuilt probably fine. Living on a Caribbean island it's whole life, probably notice some problems. The question is the strength needed or you just like the idea of equal strength?
 

gtae07

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You msy be able to shoot solids there too. You can leave most of the skin undone and work your way out, reaching through lightening holes as required.
 

proppastie

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No, this would be aircraft quality stainless steel blind rivets. I am leaning toward them because they would be as strong as solid aluminum rivets. But I am thinking that if I am using -4 blind aluminum rivets, would that be a suitable replacement for a -3 solid aluminum rivet?

I am using -3 solid aluminum rivets on the top wing skins but I must use blind rivets on the bottom because I cannot reach inside when I am riveting the bottom skins. So I am wondering if -4 aluminum rivets wold be okay.
lots of different rivets out there,Cherrymax-4 or 1/8 in a Aluminum CR-32xx is 664# Shear, Monel CR-35xx 995# That may not be the determining factor, the thickness of the sheet and bearing against the sheet may be your least shear value. (sheet failure) .....Bruhn 73 chapter D1
 

markaeric

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Wichita
You msy be able to shoot solids there too. You can leave most of the skin undone and work your way out, reaching through lightening holes as required.
Tape the sides and edges of the bucking bar to reduce the chance of impact damage when bucking close to structure that's perpendicular to the pieces being riveted, or in the event that you slide off the rivet.

Galvanic corrosion requires an electrolyte such as water, so it's cheap insurance to drive/pull the rivets wet (using primer, or less cheaply, some type of sealant). With pull fasteners, it doesn't take much additional time. It will require more frequent cleaning of your pulling tool, though.
 
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