- Dec 11, 2012
I hate it when everybody else knows somethin I don't.
what the hell is wrap?
what the hell is wrap?
Fred.Rockiedog2 I hated to use the "ass out of u and me" word but really no other word works, especially in my situation where I'm in florida and the plane is in NY. As far as my avatar, That is a very good friend of mine who, unfortunately, died 3 years ago. His name was Fred. I called him Fredrick or Fredrick M. Doodle or Trucker Fred. He was a petit basset griffon vendean or a French rabbit hound. He was a great watch dog as he owned that truck and may God help you if you came near it! A good friend that is sorely missed. I am choked up as I type this.
ive used it for N numbers and stuff but would never "wrap" the whole thing. felt bad about using it for N numbers; it's non traditional, it's lazy, and it's for millenialsWrap is that plastic sign stuff you see on vans with all the complicated graphics.
The heat might loosen the stickum and the wrap could come off.Just to really get some thread drift going, how much effect would a dark colored vinyl wrap have on a rutan style composite bird? My own personal guess is that if anything it might be worse since the vinyl would act as an insulator, all the heat would be trapped against the skin.
This is good. But after the metal conditioner treatment (containing phosphoric acid) prime with epoxy (PPG DPLF). This term "Etch" the metal or apply "etching primer" is stupid. You are "Cleaning" the metal. You ALWAYS want clean metal and the metal conditioner will do it and then it's ready for the primer coat. Never use a urethane as a primer because it wants to "crosslink" with a base paint. It doesn't work on metal. I would use a single stage urethane color topcoat; Basecoat/topcoat is too heavy, in my opinion. However, if one is doing some custom graphics (including pin striping & multi-painting techniques) and want to seal it all, then use the urethane clearcoat to bury all the custom graphics........JanTwo part conversion process. Scrub the bare metal with part one phosphoric acid (etch) and scotch bright. Rinse well.
Sponge on or weed sprayer on the part two Alodine (chromic acid)next. After 10 minutes rinse it off. Don't let it dry in sun.
Gives a slight gold tint.
Follow directions on jug, a gallon of each should do it. Collect and dispose the chemicals properly.
Most will use epoxy primer. Some use urethane primer. Some don't prime at all with Alodine only under the top coat.