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cheapracer

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So I popped into work this arvo (Sunday) and put a couple more hours in...

D skin 7.jpg
D skin 5.jpgD skin 6.jpg


Oh, and when I said matched hole, that is the skins and ribs, it is difficult to supply spars with pre-matched holes so the skins have pilot holes to make life easy, just drill away, no measuring, pin-punching etc. hassles.

D skin 4.jpg


Oh and the wing has 1.8 degrees of twist in it for anti-wing tip stall, was as easy as pie, seriously.
 
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cheapracer

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So ya knows it's time to do the other nose, ya knows.

Wing upside down, lay the sheets on to the pre matched holes and pop.



D skin 9.jpg

Flip over, strap the sheets down and play around a bit until you get a few more pre-matched holes lined up. Once you get a few in it lines most of the holes up although you have to fiddle and ream a few on the over laps, no big deal.

D skin 10.jpg

Set up the wing twist and drill/pop a few of the pre-pilot holes along the spar cap to secure the twist ..


D skin 11.jpg

Then get a result ...

D skin 12.jpg

And then there were 2 ....

D skin 8.jpg
 

cheapracer

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Went in today, lasered and started setting up the wing ends.

Drove me crazy for a while finding the correct assembly process, get it wrong and you end up with warped sheets, but eventually I found the right procedure.

The trailing edges as you can see appear to have a reverse taper, but the trailing edge is actually parallel to the spar (both being perpendicular to the plane). They also have a twist within themselves so the very end has a slight negative angle, as you can see, all as an aim to prevent wing tip stall.



tip 1.jpg

tip 2.jpg


It's surprising how different the colour's of the sheets appear in the pictures only due to the sheet orientation being different. All looks pretty much the same to the naked eye.
 

cheapracer

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There was a bit of confusion over at the Australian forum regarding the twist in the wing and the wing tip, remember it is Monday so they still have hangovers.

The wing has 2 degrees positive twist from root to tip, while the wing tip trailing edge, seen in grey here, has 2 degrees negative twist along it's short length.

If it helps some, one could imagine that the grey wing tip is like a 'mini flap' with a fixed 1 degree included angle.

This is of course aimed to prevent wing tip stall.

washout 2.jpg

washout.jpg

I quite like the wing planform shape

planform 2.jpg
 

cheapracer

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These days I have been very busy with some other important issues, but getting a bit into the plane.

At the moment I am sorting the pedals and seating, that go hand in hand for positioning of course.

For the pedal shafts I am using some bushings that needed clamps to be made and I am very happy the position I am in now to make these things myself. I spent a total of 2 hours drawing the clamps, going to the laser shop and cutting them, then to the sheetmetal shop to fold them, and now I have a couple of sets of very suitable, and identical clamps.

If you notice I laser pointed tabs on each end for the fold guy to accurately position them. All folded at once and later the joins whipped off with an angle grinder.

It is important that they could be replicated at home if they ever needed to be replaced in the future, and as you can see some drilling and folding in a vice would produce them, albeit not quite as accurately and as fast the CAD and laser.



Image5.jpg
 

cheapracer

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I have had joy with the rudder setup.

Early on I wondered about the cable routing and what I was going to use, pulleys, guides, outer casings etc and where they would be mounted. A few days ago I was staring at it all and it suddenly hit me, I might just be able to run a straight line up the middle of the plane, and booger me, I can, yee ha!

With nothing more than a few bits of guide tubes to guide them safely through the central wing spar casing and the fuse up the rear, the cables will run almost a straight line from pedals to rudder with only slight disturbance.

Here I am using some copper tubing because I had some laying around (always the best reason!) in case you were wondering, I will find some appropriate nylon casing later on, not very critical because as I said, the cable is running almost a straight line. You can actually site the middle of the front copper tubes looking through the rear copper tubes.



copper 2.jpg

copper 1.jpg
 

cheapracer

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It works! Works **** well too.


One finger operation due to cables being basically straight from pedals to rudder with very little friction.

Please note the cables are just attached to the pedals by a couple of flat washers squeezing them for the moment, that of course IS NOT the final fixture setup.


pedals 1.jpg




 
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cheapracer

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As some realise, everything ties together. Before I can set final pedal and stick positions, I have to understand where a person's body will be positioned, so now it's seat time.

Today I worked out some simple base frames, steel round tube through aluminium square tube and a couple of rivets. more work to do yet to fit them into the cabin securely yet easily removed in a single action, and then off to a local trimmers to see what they can do for bases and cushions etc.

Don't see too much into these pictures at the moment, there is a plan!


seat base 2.jpg

seat base 1.jpg
 

cheapracer

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For anyone wondering I'm just chipping away at lots of little items such as wing step-ons, finishing the wing tips, working out Flap actuation, some seat cushions being made, figuring canopies and engine stuff.

in between when I catch a moment here and there, I've managed to work out my 'High Wing' wings as well.

Still waiting for decision from Government on the 'New Energy Grant', we hear from a source that there's a promising result there, but as usual it's happening on Chinese time so not hanging around waiting for it to happen.
 

cheapracer

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For the moment I have just finished off the wings as straight tapered. I will develop some fiberglass tips from some I already have.

They look great in real life, the patchwork effect you see in the pictures from multiple sheets with different orientations, is not the final sheeting schedule, and will look much nicer on production model with less sheets.

The ailerons will be extended also on the production model, but we'll see how it flies first.

I still have the step on area to do, and then I will do a load test.



final 3.jpg
final 1.jpg
final 2.jpg

Also need to move one of my planes in the morning, should get a few stares driving down the road ...

tow car.jpg
 

cheapracer

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Now time to start on a canopy and cockpit in general.

Starting from 11am in the morning from scratch, I designed on the computer, laser cut, fabricated and fitted the entire canopy support frame you see here in blue by 4pm in the afternoon. Took pictures but they magically disappeared from my phone so you get the 3D version - but assure you it is very real and fitted.

Tomorrow I will start to cut out some cardboard and figure flat wrap canopy similar to what you see here.


canopy 3.jpg

canopy 1.jpg

canopy 2.jpg
 

cheapracer

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I just had a question over at the Australian Forum about the overhead beam above ..

Sorry Cheapy - don't take this as a personal affront - but personally, I just can't warm to that single-central-beam design.

Did you not notice the proper steel ROP roll bar behind the Pax heads? It's substantial (and not final either). Safety was always paramount and at 1.1 meters in height, you will be able to almost walk from under the plane there is that much clearance.

Maybe you just didn't notice the roll bar before?


joined 4.jpg

I have been very dismayed at the lack of attention shown to this safety item, some of the roll bar attempts are a joke. Feel sorry for that guy and his Niece who flipped the Vans a few months back and were trapped for 2 hours, with life long injuries that should have been so easily avoided. Being trapped without injury is one thing, fire is a real threat from there.

The "center beam" as you put it, is not a roll bar, it is there for 2 other reasons,

One, to hang your full body weight from getting in and out, you can't see but there's 2 bolt holes for a hold strap for the purpose,

Two, to hinge the canopy hatches from,

and Three - what do you want, I told you there was only two reasons.

The yellow line here is what we call the "Broomstick Test", and there is no way you are surviving any forces beyond what it would take to crush my craft past that yellow line.


worst case flip.jpg

I take the safety features of my plane very seriously such as the 200mm crush area under your azz to help protect your spine, the steel front corners (seen in pink above 3D) to dissipate energy up the frame rather than tearing there, many little thoughts similar. The roll bar crossbar is the correct height for seat belt harnesses by design, not accident, etc, etc.
 

cheapracer

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Most of today was spent cutting a sheet of tin up to make a pattern for a flat wrap canopy as well as experimenting with hinge positions, things went quite well and got a result quite quickly, alas the sheet of clear plastic I have had laying around for a while proved to be rubbish (brittle) when I transfered the pattern and started to cut it.

Some may have noticed I am in the middle of moving factory also. Doesn't help that the old tenants are still there and won't be gone til the end of the month. All I can tell you is that it wasn't planned by a Man.




canopy 11.jpg

canopy 6.jpg

canopy 7.jpg

canopy 8.jpg

canopy 9.jpg

canopy 10.jpg
 
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