I had the same thought. I have a pile of Sachs and Mazda engines I've planned to use to experiment with DI Real Soon Now. I'd like to try stratified charge and multiple ignitions per cycle to improve BSFC, like the 16X. The plan's been in my brain for a few years but the progress is painfully slow.Given the 'unique' cycle characteristics of the rotary, I've wondered whether the direct injection method could be used on the rotary (like they're doing with H2), but with conventional automotive injectors & fuel pressures. The injection point would never see the elevated pressures of combustion; unlike a piston engine.
Our engine only uses Mazda parts. It is PPorted etc. The dyno sheet I have handy is from 2009 and we were tuning to reach peak HP at 6000. We changed the intake sizes and lengths to get more HP at 7000 and subtracted a tooth from our spur gear. A lot has changed since then. Changed the injection timing and got the EGT down a couple hundred degrees from this chart.At what rpm on the 13B rew(?) and torque is that 250 HP produced. Can you publish engine dyno curves for us?
I own, pending final assembly, this Sachs KM-914, with a directo added peripheral port. As the new port opens later than the standard, it allows an 'Stratified engine', direct port receiving a richer mix than the standard. For those who still deny global warming, I purchased this engine from a member of Hercules Wankel IG, who prepared it for his snowmobile, but it was 9 years without snow when he sold it.I had the same thought. I have a pile of Sachs and Mazda engines I've planned to use to experiment with DI Real Soon Now. I'd like to try stratified charge and multiple ignitions per cycle to improve BSFC, like the 16X. The plan's been in my brain for a few years but the progress is painfully slow.
I haven't figured out anything conclusive about injector positions and angles, in addition to spark plug positions and angles with regard to the injectors. My thought was to closely copy the geometry of the engine whose injection system I choose, but I've noticed pretty large differences between what Ford and GM do. I would have thought they'd be similar. Still early for my efforts.
I'd also planned to go with Nikasil coatings and ceramic seals. If cast iron seals can have good longevity with Nikasil, that's very, very useful information.
I'm always in doubt about Cermet seals. Old research pointed ferrotic seals gave best results in terms of wear against a nikasil coated housing, but even if ferrotic is a cermet, I can't compare it with the ceramic seals for sale today, because lack of info.Well, here is a can of worms worthy of a completely new discussion, but let me throw aa few things out-
A long time ago, Mazda did a bunch of testing with various anti-wear/low friction methods other than chrome plating for the rotor housing surface and nitriding for the iron plates. They ended up with a Nikasil coated steel liner and irons as the most practical option, along with a "cermet" treated rotor housings. The problem with the Nikasil and Cermet coatings was the break in. Basically, the housings had to be burnished before the seals were installed, and even then initial wear could be extreme. Now, that was with older materials so that has certainly changed, but neither process is practical in a production car.
In the 2000's forward the UAV industry liked the rotary engine since it ran so smooth and allowed a much more vibration free camera platform. They did a large amount of development and ended up back where Mazda did, with Nikasil or Cermet coatings, along with more modern seals, including ceramics.
In my shop I had a set of worn out rotor housings stripped of thier chrome plating and coated with Nikasil to just over 10thou, and a set of irons surface ground 10 under with Nikasil built back up to standard. I put the motor together with stock apex seals and ran it for 1000miles to break it in/burnish the Nikasil. When I took it apart the seals were abnormally worn. This is because the Nikasil surface is rough and very hard, and where a piston ring wears slightly in a Nikasil bore, the spring pressure and seal construction of the apex and side seals are simply not durable enough. the same thing was noted with CERMET housings that Pineapple did up until about 2010 or so. I re-assembled the engine with new seals and after 100 miles the compression was slightly above average and continued to improve. At 5000 miles I tore the engine down again and there was no wear noted. The apex seals had burnished in slightly but the housings and irons looked the same as they had. I sold the engine to a customer and a few years later at around 60K miles I tore the same engine down with no measurable wear noted again. This is noteworthy because this was an engine fitted to an S4 Turbo 2 that made about 300whp, was driven almost every day, and was abused by its owner. At one point the owner discovered the OMP lines had broken and there was little if any oil being injected into the engine, and he had several overboost events that should have caused major damage, but did not.
So, in reality the technology is out there now to create amazingly durable 13B engines with more modern components, but the cost is somewhat high. Also, I think the fellow in Canada that did the CERMET housings is no longer offering it. Nikasil can be tricky and if not done exactly right it can and will "peel" from the substrate metal.
In an aircraft the added strength and durability might be worth the trouble, or maybe not.
This document is related to Mazda Hydrogen RCE. As far as I know, has no copyright restrictions.Interesting, I will have a look. I know they eliminated overlap for hydrogen use (Naturally), but exactly how I'm unsure.
George
Enter your email address to join:
Register today and take advantage of membership benefits.
Enter your email address to join: