KR2 and Taylormono plane

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don january

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A fellow member has helped me out with some fabric and some other items so I'm watching every video on rib stitching and getting ready to cover the Elevator and rudder. Progress has been slow because of the planting season in my area but each day I get a little closer to completion. So close but yet so far to go. Thanks much Pops for your help
 

don january

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Last post I mentioned how I wanted to start covering the elevator and rudder but I have decided to take some more building time to smooth up the drop between the gussets and caps. I have chosen to apply balsa strips on each rib of 1/16" thick and at needed width to get the fabric to lay evenly across the entire plain of the control surface. It will be a small weight penalty but will give a much cleaner looking covering job IMO. picture is of the elevator and rudder before this step I'm at. And like usual I'm waiting for more materials to move along. I often wonder how the heck Wicks organ company built that KR-2 so fast years ago.o_O fus 22.jpg
 

don january

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throttle 1.jpg Just a monthly update and nothing to major done to justify log picture. Beings I'm having to take the Fuselage up out of my basement like I got it down there I'm trying to complete the Fuselage as much as possible before moving it to an outside building. Outside root spars will be mounted in place and there goes the 30" width needed to get past the door. My building steps is allowing me to complete tail group and elev/rudder cables fitted and done. I can apply ply to the fus. and even get cowling semi fitted and wind screen complete. Once the roots are in I can focus on wings and engine also main gear can be fitted down stairs and removed when Spars need to be pulled for taking the Fus. out. It is rather amazing how much can be done in a small work area on your plane it has been a trick to not build yourself into a corner or in other words stuck in the basement.:eek: Progress has been slow but many small things are getting done.
 

don january

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Took fuselage and tail group out side for a few days and got a good look at every thing in the sun light. Added stain were it was needing coated and was able to look close for any glue joints that may be in stress and all looks good.I have some nice 3/16" ply and have been calculating on weight difference using it other then the 2 MM ply from firewall to seat back bulkhead plans call for. I believe gained weight will be worth the penalty for the strength I will get with a bit stronger ply on the sides. I also have been cutting foam blocks to glue in between Horz. Stab leading edge ribs to contour to shape for more glue area and strength for the 1 mm ply sheeting to connect to. Early wild guess on empty weight 460 LB and with Diehl skinned KR-2 wings hoping for a gross of 900-1100 lb. Like I said just guessing at this time. Picture is of elevator cable pulley behind seat bulkhead and base bolts go threw fuselage aft spar pulley.jpg
 

don january

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I was messing with an idea to mount the wind screen and came up with some tabs that was easy to make. I took a bug deflector I had laying around for my truck and found a nice piece of formed Alum that held the Plexiglas on the front of the truck. I cut 3/4" long pieces and started to cut and file to the shape and angle I wanted. Next is to drill some holes and get ready for the screen. I figure that when the screen is down tight I can add a rubber trim mold under between tabs to get it air tight. This is what home built is all about.:) Some may ask why the molding under the screen?? Well look close at the tab and picture it on the plane.wind screen tabs 1.jpg wind screen tabs.jpg wind screen tabs 1.jpg wind screen tabs.jpg
 

don january

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I thought maybe you all was thinking I was slacking on the build and maybe just a bit. I did manage to get the ribs for the wing skins closer to being ready. I have been cutting 8 root ribs out of 3/16" ply and working on main spars. The wings will have a nice tapper in the trailing edge and now is a good time to look into aileron spar location and control horns.wing ribs.jpg
 

don january

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Was given a 18"x40"x 9.5" deep boat Alum tank and I think with some creative cutting I can make a approx 7 gallon header tank to fit the T-mono. I plan on trying to mount closest to C.G. as possible and looking and with measurements it looks to land in the area between the fire wall and instrument panel. If this works out a fellow T-mono builder will get the other half for his needsalum. tank.jpg
 

don january

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Rudder in post #62 shows how rib caps are inset into rudder spar and this picture is of the last gusset's being applied per plans. After they are glued in place I will fill between all gusset areas with Balsa to get nice level plain for fabric to set on and to be stitched to. Bottom rib bay will be covered with ply with a small tube at bottom for a drain if moisture was to gather.a rudder trim.jpg
 

don january

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For those who are following my build log I wanted to advise that once glue is applied try and get glue flow heading towards the leading edge of the part being glued. Some times it's ok flat but in cases such as the rudder gussets its nice to get the glue bunched up at the leading edge of spar to cover those hidden areas out of sight. And don't forget to test clamp first what ever it takes.;) a rudder part2.jpg
 

don january

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The bottom of rudder gets covered with 3.mm ply and there is two lock nuts that can be a trick to reach when covered so I drilled a 7/8" hole in base brace to allow room for the socket and swivel and extension to reach the nutsRUDDER BASE 1.jpg This can be one area that you can get yourself into a corner because even if rudder is uncovered the ply siding will make it very hard if not impossible to get to nut's with stock type rib.RUDDER 18.jpg Next pic. is of how the balsa is getting the overall surface to blend into a solid flat surface RUDDER 18.jpg
 

don january

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Elevator is the next victim on my to do list and I'm still having a blast with my build. I can see why some people would just rather hang the part on the wall it is a shame to cover up such cool looking parts.rudder elevator.jpg
 

don january

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Started finish work on the Elev. I'm in debate as to add ply to the root as pictures indicate. the print shows the leading edge gusset across the spar but then in a cutaway print of of the whole plane it appears the root ply is there? I shall go with balsa plate and box the two root rib's. Trailing edge of elev. has been detailed and first pass of sanding complete.elev 11.jpg elev 12.jpg elev 10.jpg
 

don january

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Got some thing done today that has been needed done to the throttle. I moved it up out of the way of aft end of fuel tank by using same mounting bolt holes and I have a clear hole in Alum angle mounting bracket for Carb heat cablethrottle 3.jpg throttle 1.jpg
 

don january

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I've been working on detailing the Elevator and have one side complete. I added a ground adjusted trim tab to help counter the incidence degree of the Horz. Stab which is at zero degree per plans but have found in the past that a tab is nice to set for level flight at cruise. It is amazing the strength achieved by adding the balsa and glue to the rib stringers and tip areas with very little weight gain. Next is to flip and finish other side and mount rod end bearing hinge's. I will see if I can get the proper size Clevis rod end to match the rod bearing if not then Alum 1-1/4" square tube will be cut and shaped for other half of hinge to help with torsional loads in flight. If you can see the 3 little holes along the leading edge of the trim tab I drilled and added a old trick from model building and that is to slip tooth picks into a slip fit hole and epoxy like we did with control hinges of the RC. I do have 3 SS screws in the leading edge of the trim tab tied into the trailing edge of the elevator. The tab has a 90 degree bend at leading edge the thickness of the wood its mounted to Approx. 3/4" thick.z elev 2.jpg z elev 1.jpg Smooth as a baby's butt.:)
 

don january

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20191209_142018.jpg 20191209_210352.jpg Started detail work needed done on the Horz. Stab. The ply covering seems to be a challenge to get wrapped around the leading edge. I want ply grain running parallel with the thrust line but from front spar around the leading edge I will use 1.5 mm with grain running 90 degrees to thrust line and have the back areas covered with 1 mm ply with grain running forward and aft. I added two compression members internally for added strength and in hopes of stopping any twist in HS. At this point I think the HS is strong enough to just cover in fabric and stitch but prints call for this control surface to be completely covered with 1 mm ply other then tips but with the way I did it the tips can also be covered with ply much like the bottom of rudder. As spoke of in prier post I need to gain some weight in tail group to aid in CG because of fire wall type and engine weight.I also added two small hard wood brace blocks at outer leading edge to support between spar and tip bows, I feel this area to be weak if pushed on to hard and prone to hanger damage if it was to be hit. By notching the spars and having the rib stringers embedded I will not need balsa to get the surface flush with the level plain. the only place that needed balsa added was the 45 degree tip ribs and that is why I can cover the tips with ply also and yes I know I need to clean the shop.:popcorn: 20191209_210434 (1).jpg
 
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