# Jungster 1 & 2 aircraft

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#### Fighting 14

##### Well-Known Member
For Martii, I understand your desire to use your wings. Your wings are intended to have a max speed of about 55 mph. Whatever you do with them, that needs to be your max speed. They are not intended or built to fly faster. Check out the Gee Bee Flutter test videos on page 10. There are two. Even if you brace the wings with steel tubing their light build may flutter at speeds lower than you think. I would use those wings as they were originally intended. You don't want to have a fatal encounter with flutter. Good luck!

#### Skybaby9

##### Member
HBA Supporter
I get a lot more satisfaction out of doing this stuff by hand. I like rough cutting them with a scroll saw and then finishing them up with a router. I guess I'm just going to accept the fact that they're not exactly the right size. I had sort of set the standard in my mind by a set of Starduster plans that I have, and those are pretty hard to live up to. Throw in the fact that I'm a long-time A&P/IA and it becomes difficult to break that mindset.

#### Skybaby9

##### Member
HBA Supporter
For Skybaby9. I think with your rib issue you crossed old and new. I would say every homebuilt airplane built with plans before 1995 and many later have had the rib mismatch issue. CAD has been a blessing and also has spoiled builders. Classic old printing equipment changed the drawings with the process. Builders figured away to adapt. Literally first test of will to build. With the aerodynamics of cloth covered wings, most minor adjustments will never be noticed flying. There wasn’t a choice before CAD and that’s the beauty of wood and for different planes steel tubes, not critical to make adjustments. Other materials are much harder to fix if one finds off.
Yeah I guess I just assumed that the rib drawing would be correct. Everything else has useable dimensions, but that doesn't really work with ribs, where you need fair curves and what not.

#### TFF

##### Well-Known Member
The vintage of Starduster plans make a difference. I have a Starduster 1. My repairs did not need plans, but a buddy bought one with plans. They are not the worst plans, but no where close to good. If you have Aircraft Spruce plans, they had them redrawn. Best plans are Acrosport. Maybe they will become available again.

Model airplane plans are always off. I grew up fixing fit. Second nature. Lots of plans have fixes the prototype needed but never tested by the designer. Not excuses, but what is. The stuff was never given a second thought. If you have a big catalog of plans, there are some classics. The full size rib template was a gimmick at first. I don’t know if it was Wittman or someone else. It got you to by one set of plans over another that needed lofting the rib. The magic rib was there. Except for spar to spar dimensions, one of the most adaptable parts because it’s not laminar. I would only give a 50/50 chance of any part swapping between two builders of planes.

I guess my point is don’t give up if that’s the one you want. Even RV kit has issues to fight through. Nothing is a give-me.

#### Skybaby9

##### Member
HBA Supporter
The vintage of Starduster plans make a difference. I have a Starduster 1. My repairs did not need plans, but a buddy bought one with plans. They are not the worst plans, but no where close to good. If you have Aircraft Spruce plans, they had them redrawn. Best plans are Acrosport. Maybe they will become available again.

Model airplane plans are always off. I grew up fixing fit. Second nature. Lots of plans have fixes the prototype needed but never tested by the designer. Not excuses, but what is. The stuff was never given a second thought. If you have a big catalog of plans, there are some classics. The full size rib template was a gimmick at first. I don’t know if it was Wittman or someone else. It got you to by one set of plans over another that needed lofting the rib. The magic rib was there. Except for spar to spar dimensions, one of the most adaptable parts because it’s not laminar. I would only give a 50/50 chance of any part swapping between two builders of planes.

I guess my point is don’t give up if that’s the one you want. Even RV kit has issues to fight through. Nothing is a give-me.
Yeah I have a rib print now that's only off by 1/4". I'll use that. I tried to loft a rib for an Emeraude and that kind of soured me to the whole idea. (And it turned me off to built-up ribs.)

#### Dominic Eller

##### Well-Known Member
HBA Supporter
Skybaby9, I’ll try and get my buddy to covert the DXF file into a PDF or similar that you can have printed.

#### Skybaby9

##### Member
HBA Supporter
Skybaby9, I’ll try and get my buddy to covert the DXF file into a PDF or similar that you can have printed.
That would be great! Thanks.

#### Dominic Eller

##### Well-Known Member
HBA Supporter
That would be great! Thanks.
I sent rib file to my buddy yesterday, hopefully he gets it converted soon
I’ll send it to you ASAP.

#### Dominic Eller

##### Well-Known Member
HBA Supporter
Fighting 14th any progress on the sign off?
I’m super excited to hear and see VIDEO! Of some flights!

#### Dominic Eller

##### Well-Known Member
HBA Supporter
I’ve stiffened up my dropped seat mod brackets, they flexed too much. I had a 90ish kg mate sit in and bounce around while I looked under the seat. Now it doesn’t budge.
I’m going to make an ali tray seat and compare it to the fabric sling, I think I can have more of a consistent bucket with the ali. The fabric will no doubt require re tensioning occasionally of the cord.

I also made a new bracket to remount the vernier trim, new seat equals new trim location. I like the new position more, hand goes right to it and it’s angled outwards so it’s not in the way of feet when getting in or out. Saved a few grams weight over the only one too

#### Skybaby9

##### Member
HBA Supporter
I sent rib file to my buddy yesterday, hopefully he gets it converted soon
I’ll send it to you ASAP.
Thanks a lot!

#### Dominic Eller

##### Well-Known Member
HBA Supporter
The Vernier control is for the elevator trim.
Push button for corse movements and rotary for fine. It was in original so I imagine it should work fine.
I’ll use the original throttle / mixture quadrant, it has push pull tubes.

Perfect

#### Fighting 14

##### Well-Known Member
GREAT NEWS, Weighed my airplane with me @ 167 lbs and full fuel and 14 lb parachute, came out at 1000 lbs!!
Wow! And best of all................my CG is .12 inches aft of the center of the stub wing front spar. I call that Dead on!!!
RK did a good job designing the Jungster. I eliminated two of the belly to tail longerons, which gives it a more Jungmeister like line, and the entire trim system for a total reduction of probably 4-5 lbs. I added the big spinner and spacer, starter and wheel pants, all which went in the minus moment column Thats what it took on this bird to get the CG where it is supposed to be. The Culver wooden prop is about 30 pounds lighter than a metal Sensenich of the same diameter. and pitch. At this altitude about the best I can get is in the ballpark of 110 hp. So my prop is pitched at 45". You guys gals and guys at low altitude will be able to handle greater pitch. My field elevation is 7300'. The DA is pushing 10,000' on most summer afternoons. But.......it snowed and the wind blew all day, Again. The Grizzly bears are going into their dens. Looks like Narnia around here.

#### Dominic Eller

##### Well-Known Member
HBA Supporter
Great weight result
man the proto must have had nothing in it to come in empty at 605lbs!
I’m disappointed the Vernier engines can’t handle snaps, the weight saving for HP would have been great. Would have to have a longer engine mount no doubt so might have looked a little off.
Did you weigh yours finished before the engine was hung?
I’m desperate to come in under the originals 732lb empty but I think I might be dreaming!
Dam that weather getting in the way of a good time! That sure is a high DA it will be interesting to see how she performs.
Do you have a Maul tail wheel on yours?

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