JMR SPecial project. My design.

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Pops

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Even a blind hog can find an acorn under a oak tree once in a while. After reading post #9-10 and 11 in https://www.homebuiltairplanes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2855 , Anti Spinning Strake , maybe the engine cylinder covers on the side of my cowl will have the same effect in spin recovery. I did design the size, shape and area location of the rubber for better spin recovery.
Loved the spin recovery of my Falconar F-12 , easy in either direction and easy out. Easy to stop the spin in a desired general direction. It had a huge rudder with a lot of the area below the stab.
 

Pops

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Rolled the airplane out of the hanger today for some pictures. Look how long the grass is, just mowed about 4 days ago. We have had far more rain this summer than normal and today it was in the high 90's and very high humidity. Spending to much time mowing grass and not building. As you can see I still don't have the painting finished on the flaps and ailerons so not installed, I feel better waiting until the temps and humidity get back down. Need to prime the lower cowl and paint the complete cowl and add the blue trim strips.
I have the doors off because I just made the fiberglass cover that goes from the leading edge of the wing to the windshield. If you look close the left one is in place but also not painted yet. The rest of the fairing strips between the fuselage and wings will be .025 aluminum.
Want to post some pictures so you can get a better look at the airplane. Can't wait to start the test flying. Believe I will like it. If I don't , no one else to blame except me.

Added --- I agree, it would look better if it was a taildragger. All airplanes do, well, almost all.
 

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Pops

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Local man trying the JMR on for size. He is 6' x 3" and 280 lbs. Says its comfortable for him in every way. He would be able to fly with full fuel tanks and 20 lb of baggage.
He had his feet back behind the rudder pedals, so with his feet on the rudder pedals his knees would be down more. Also the seat can be moved back a couple inches if needed. I built the cockpit to fit my 2 grandsons that are 250/260 X 6'4"/ 6'5" tall.
 

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Pops

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I block sanded on the bottom half of the cowl until I'm tired of block sanding, just going to have to live with what I have. I still need to do a little fiber-glassing on the inside yet, but that will be quick and easy and then it will be ready for a coat of Poly-Fiber silver and then the colored coats of paint. At that time I will also finish painting the flaps and ailerons. Having less and less time to work on it. Wifes health is requiring more of my time. Maybe I can finish the small things I need to do this winter.
 

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Pops

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I had to do some stick welding in the hanger close to the JMR today so I moved the airplane outside. While outside I took some pictures with the doors on. You can get a better idea of what it looks like now.
Temp is to go down in the lower 70's in a few days and it will be a good time to finish the painting. Hope to have the time.
 

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Pops

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Painted and installed the flaps, need to make the flap and aileron pushrods. Painted the top of the cowl and the ailerons and now need to paint the blue trim on the ailerons to match the wings and paint the lower cowl. Then I need to finish the exhaust system and aluminum engine baffling. I guess after that its the paper work.
Been a long journey. Worked on the design 2 years before starting construction and this is a simple little airplane.
 

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Pops

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In the side view of the JMR the fuselage looks a little chunkey ( fat) to me. It's designed for a large pilot of 6'4"and 250 lbs with full fuel and 40 lbs of baggage. Hard to scale the large pilot down to fit in a small airframe. IF I was designing for the rare FAA pilot of 5' 10" and 170 lbs, the fuselage could be 2" shorter in height that would make it look a lot more streamlined and more slope to the windshield. If that was done and changed to a taildragger the looks would completely change for the better in my view. But today pilots are a lot bigger than 40/50 years ago and a small percentage of today's pilots can not fly a taildragger. In designing an aircraft everything is trade off and if you change one thing it effects most everything else. Make your choices and live with what you have.
 

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Pops

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Building the fairings between the fuselage and wings. The front part between the windshield and LE of the wing is made with fiberglass and the rest I used .025 aluminum. I'll prime and paint when I take them off for the finial inspection. Just one of the thousand things to finish in the last 10% of the build. Still need to make the fairings from the fuselage to the stab, label the instrument panel, etc, etc, etc.
 

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Pops

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Finished the fairings from the stab to the fuselage. Like the fuselage fairings, I'll paint when I have to remove them. Now making up the pushrods for the flaps and ailerons. Been turning the steel bushing on the lathe that welds in the ends of the 4130 pushrod tubing and drilled and tapped for the 1/4"x28 threaded rod ends. Need to make 12 total.
Making these fairings is good place to use the Whitney punch to make all the small holes for the screws. Just set the gap stop and punch away.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hole-Punch-Kit-13-16-ga-Steel-ROPER-WHITNEY-5-KIT/221575207972?epid=1029558703&hash=item3396e95c24:g:6LEAAOSw6X5aB4ry:sc:ShippingMethodExpress!26143!US!-1:rk:11:pf:0
 

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Pops

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I have the pushrods for the flaps and ailerons made but its a steady rain outside and I'll wait until its not so humid to epoxy prime. Started on the engine baffling. Making poster board patterns first. Picture of the first piece. This is where the small 12 shear I made in about 1985 will be used. Same for the 30" bar folder for the 90 deg bends. Using the Whittney punch to make round holes at the corner cuts for stress relieving then clean up with the small round file. Making the rear baffling first then work my way up each side, then the front.

See the aluminum spacer behind the engine mount lug on the engine. When I did the W&B to determine the length of the engine mount to put the CG where I wanted, I forgot to allow for the 40 lbs in the baggage compartment behind the seat. So instead of building a new engine mount after this one was welded and primed and painted , I turned 4 aluminum spacers to move the engine forward for the distance from the firewall to the CG of the engine that I needed.
I thought I made a mistake onetime but I didn't. :)
 

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Pops

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Making a little progress on the alum engine baffling. Making poster board patterns but I still end up throwing away the first one. Need to get a good close fit around the engine for the least amount of air leaks. After the baffling is made, I will cut the height about 1/2" less that the inside of the top of the cowl.
 

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Pops

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Cardboard pattern in place for the next piece of baffling. The side piece over the cylinders will be cut into vertically and a 3/8" strip removed, with alum on each side of the cut for a slip joint. Have to allow for the separate movement of each cylinder, if not the alum will crack between the two cylinders. There will be brackets from each cylinder to attach the baffling.
Got to thinking, I have made new baffling for 3-- Cessna 172's, 1-- Cessna 150, 1--- Cessna 140, 1--- Ercoupe, 1--- Cessna 170 and 3 -- homebuilts, this makes the 4 th homebuilt. Its a lot easier and quicker when you have the old baffling as a pattern.

Notice the blue aluminum breather elbow on the engine. The stock brass elbow that cont. uses in heavy. The aluminum elbow saved 5 oz.
 

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Pops

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Been a little slower in getting something done over the holidays, traveling to see family and such. Have the front baffling about finished. Then making new baffling under the cylinders, etc. The slow part will be cutting the top of the baffling to fit under the top cowling.
 

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Pops

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Engine baffling is finished except for the silicon seal between the baffling and inside of cowl. Had to do a lot of cutting and fitting to trim the length and do a little cutting at a time so I wouldn't get the gap to wide and have to make a new piece. Came out good. Still have the mods and carb heat box to build for the exhaust system and painting the lower cowl. I can see the light of dawn over the horizon to the east in this build.
 

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Installing the Slick mags and routing the plug wires. I needed to pass the top plug wires through the aluminum baffling , several ways to do it, but I had some 1/8" and 1/4" thick nylon sheet so I made my own. Got the flaps hooked up, working and adjusted . Total travel is a little less that I was wanting but I think I will wait until the test flying to decide to move the last notch in the flap assembly to get the little extra 5 degs of flaps that I was wanting.
 

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Pops

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I finished all the control cables, the ailerons being last. Picture of the tools and an the information required that I cut our of an old Kitplanes mag many years ago. I also use a electrical split bolt to hold the parts nice and tight. The split bolt comes in different sizes and the smallest in the picture is for 1/8" cable and the larger one is for 1/4" dia cable. My hanger 44' bi-fold door uses 1/4" dia cables and need replaced about every 5 or 6 year. About any electrical supply store stocks the wire split bolts.
https://www.grainger.com/category/electrical/electrical-supplies/wire-connectors/split-bolt-connectors

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blackburn-0-235-in-Copper-Split-Bolt/1000226327
 

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Pops

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Took some random pictures for you to see how I did different things. I used the digital level to make sure each flap is set to with-in .5 degrees in each setting.
Bought a light gray cow hide for the seat. Going to have the same people to do my seat like they did the seats in my daughter's 1947 Cessna 140 that we restored. I know its going to add some weight over something with a lighter weight, but I'll live with it. Same for the LED position lights and strobes.
The fiberglass cowl came out heavier that I wanted. I'll live with it for now and after I get it flying I plan on making a mold and used vacuum infusing and make a lighter weight cowl.
There will be a larger 9" tablet in the center below the upper round instruments. On the lower right side below the instrument is a white USB port for both tablets.
When I put the final torque on a nut I put a Red fingernail polish mark on it.
The electric elevator trim rocker switch in on the left side below the flap handle on an alum bracket.
 

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Pops

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Hooked up new Throttle control, carb mixture, and carb heat box cables. I need to layout the exhaust system, biggest job left besides the paper work. Also fuel hose to carb.
Made a bracket on the nose gear for a tow bar. Haven't make the tow bar yet.

I shouldn't have taken the time off the JMR but I bought a VW pipe buggy frame kit and have it about 95% welded up. I was planning on letting it set until the JMR was finished, but couldn't help myself and had to start fitting and welding.

I promise, I will not start back to work on the pipe buggy until the JMR is finished, I promise, I promise.

Also for this last week I have been fighting a sinus infection and didn't do much. Starting to feel better, not looks, just feeling. :)
 
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