JMR SPecial project. My design.

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Pops

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Oops , almost forgot the drain holes. I always just cut them out of 3/4" O.D. .010 house flashing alum and use a punch to make the 3/16" hole in the center. Better than the plastic ones you can buy. Just use a pencil soldering tip and melt the fabric over the hole and not have to worry about melting the plastic ring. Better job.
 

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Pops

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I have the right wing through the Silver. Made a temp rack to set the wing on in place close to the fuselage. Moved the left wing to the spray booth to cover and paint. While working on the left wing I'll mount the right wing on the fuselage and measure and make the wing strut. When the wing is bolted on I need to cut the flap torque tube to the proper length and also open up the fabric holes in the cabin wing root for the fuel sight tubes.
Didn't do anything for about 10 days, had a summer cold and small sinus infection. Feeling good now.
 

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Pops

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Starting the last wing side. Bottom is covered. Hope to have the left wing ready for rib stitching in a couple days. Also working on making up the right wing strut. The right wing strut came out to 96.5" for a 1.5 deg dihedral . Hope the left strut comes out the same length. IF not, I'll never tell :)



About the yellow mustard squeeze bottle. Great way to put the Poly-Tack on. Some smaller places I squeeze the glue on the brush.
 

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Pops

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I have very few pictures of me working on the JMR, so had my wife take a couple to satisfy the FAA.

I'm slow but sure.

As you can see I have the right front strut made. Also have the bottom of the other struts made and ready for the final fit.
 

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Pops

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Been working on covering the flaps and ailerons and put the last finishing tapes on yesterday. Took longer than I wanted because of building a 22' x 27' greenhouse in the back yard, and pouring new concrete piers for adding 5 more solar panels to my solar system. Lots to do before winter including finishing the painting on the wings and flaps and ailerons for the JMR. Think I'll go set in the cockpit and made some engine noises.
 

Pops

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Painted the left wing this week. Now maybe I can get the trim colors on the wing tip this coming week and mount the wing on the fuselage. I made 2"x4" wing cradle to hold the left wing in position. Attach it with "C" clamps to the airplane hauling trailer. Got to use what is handy. ( that is redneck talk) The bottom of the left struts are finished, so after getting the wing in position and getting the dihedral ( 1.8 degs) the same as the right wing I'll cut the strut to length and bolt in the end fittings. Maybe 2 weeks from now I will take the right wing off and paint the white paint and trim on and re-install. I still have to paint the flaps and ailerons. Looking forward to getting the large painting finished and working on making the engine cowl.

When Joe stopped here a couple weeks ago on his return trip back home from NY city, Joe tried the cockpit on for size. I'm 6' tall and Joe is taller than I am but he has long legs where I have a longer torso and shorter legs. The seat and rudder pedals are set up for me. The seat can be moved 2" to the rear for someone with longer legs and the rudder pedals adjusted towards the firewall for some taller pilots like my 2 grandsons. There are lots of head room and I'll be making the bottom seat cushion about 4" thick to get my head up and have a very good view over the instrument panel. There are lots of cockpit room in this airplane.

With winter coming closer and my "honey do" jobs are mounting up. Don't think I'll get the greenhouse finished before the snow fly's.
 

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Pops

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Finished painting the trim on the left wing and mounted it. Will have the struts bolted on this evening. Picture of the wing tip trim and the LED wing tip light and the strobe. It's a LSA airplane but I like to have position lights and a strobe for low light days if I want to use them. Also have strobes on the top of the fin and under the fuselage .
Now need to remove the right wing and finish the painting of the white and trim. Didn't have room to store the wing while painting the left wing so I mounted it to the fuselage and made the struts up while the wing was attached to the fuselage.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/strobe-beacons/led-hideaway-strobe-lights-mini-emergency-vehicle-led-warning-lights/1905/#/tab/Overview
 

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Pops

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Left wing is finally attached, now tomorrow, I'll get my two grandsons to help me remove the right wing and put in in the paint booth and hope to finish painting the white and trim by the end of the week. It will be good to finally have both wings installed. Then on to the W&B to work out the length of the engine mount to get the CG where I want. Have all the engine mount parts made, just need to cut tubing to length.

Wonder when I will get it finished and start the test flying ?
 
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Pops

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Plans revision-- Changing the plans on the location of the fuel tanks. Moving the tanks out towards the wing tip 1.5". The end board end of the fuel tanks are to close to the rib. Not enough room to get a wrench up into the end of the tank to tighten the fittings. I have to come from the root end of the wing to install and tighten the fittings. Easy to use a socket and extension to install the finger strainers, but no so in installing the fuel lines. I made a tool to solve this problem. I cut a deep well socket into and welded to a longer piece of 4130 tube from the scrap box. Drillled a hole in the end where I can use a screw driver to tighten the fuel line on the fitting that is screwed into the fuel strainer. But this makes it harder to remove the fuel tank in the future if I get a fuel leak. By extending the fuel tank out board 1.5" I will have room to just unconnect the fuel line at the end of the tank and drop it down.
I have the right wing finished painted with the trim and as soon as I can get my 2 grandsons rounded up we will install it.
I will be using Piper sight fuel gauges like I used on the SSSC , non-electric. Need to order the little Piper plastic balls that float in the sight gauge that makes it easier to see the fuel level. Univair sales them for $5. If anyone knows of something else I can use, let me know.
 

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Pops

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I made the strut clamps for the jury struts from .070 4130 steel plate. Had some cut-off ends of the strut material that I used for a pattern in forming. Just clamp the 1/2" wide strip of metal and heated with a torch and rapped around. Tapping with a small hammer for a good fit.
I am using the aluminum streamline jury strut material from Carlson Aircraft that comes in 6' lengths.
 

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Pops

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"Hip-Hip Hooray" Finally have both wings on. Now I need to finish the jury struts. Will not be long before I do the W&B and find out how long to built the engine mount. Starting to look like an airplane. Now I can finish hooking up the fuel lines to the wings,etc.
 

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Pops

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Finished the jury struts today. I used the Carlson aluminum streamline jury struts that come 6' long. The struts have a flat in the ID on each side with a gap of .156" . My fitting that goes in the ends are 1/8" X 3/4" 2024-T3.
I use an aluminum shim of .025 along with the 1/8" fitting for a good fit and room for a thin film of JB Weld. Cut to length and slid the fitting and shim up in each end with a little JB Weld and install with a couple bolts until the JB Weld set up for a perfect fit.
Then I drilled for 3 -- 1/8" dia flush rivets on each end. On the back side I laid the rivet head on a large piece of 1/2" thick steel plate with a piece of masking tape over the rivet heads and used a hammer and formed the other end down in the counter sunk strut. Make a flush rivet on each side. Minimum spacing for the rivets is 3x dia. Looks nice.
 

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Pops

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Pictures of the wing struts and jury strut insulation. Also a picture of the simple pitot tube. Same as I used on the SSSC.
 

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Pops

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Getting ready to do the W&B to work out the length of engine mount to put the CG where I want it. I weighed the engine, subtracted the tare weigh of the block of wood + added the weight of 2 Slick mags,harness and the carb. The weight came out to 188 lbs. Same as Bob Barrows non-electric C-85 on his Bearhawk LSA. The aluminum breather elbow instead of the stock brass elbow saves 1/2 lb. I calibrated the scale with the scales at my doctors office so they should be close enough. I have all the parts for the engine mount made except the length of the tubes. I'll need to add the weight of the prop and crush plate and work out how much it moves the CG forward on the engine CG. The engine CG without the prop and crush plate is 6.25" forward of the rear case machined surface where the accessory case bolts on the case. I'll have to estimate the weight and cg of the cowling. My goal is for a CG of 26.66% of the cord with me ( 230 lbs) in the seat. With wing fuel tanks the CG will change very little from empty to full. CG envelope is 23.75% to 30%.
I'll do the W&B with me in the seat and find the CG then solve for the Adverse Moment.
When I did this on the SSSC, the flying W&B came out to within .10" of where I wanted. Hope I can get that close this time.
 

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Pops

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Finished the W&B. To put the CG where I wanted with me in the cockpit ( 230 lbs) the engine mount needs to be 7.89" long from the rear of the engine case to the lower firewall. The firewall is sloped, the top is sloped back 5" so the engine mount will be 12.89" long on the top and 7.89" long on the bottom.
My goal for the EW was 600 lbs, it came out at 620 lbs. I'll take that since the wing loading is so low. At a gross weight of 1050 lbs it still gives me a good useful load .
I'll start building the engine mount Monday.
 

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Had some spare time today so decided to build the stand to place the engine on in front of the firewall. I have built several one off engine mounts this way and its not hard. Just make a stand for the engine, mine is made so the engine will set on the flat spots on the intake elbows. Make the stand an inch of so lower so you can shim to position. I have the fuselage level. Then I will shim the engine on the stand until its where I want, then bolt the engine mount spools on the engine and on the firewall and fit the 4130 steel tubing in between. After tacking the tubing, I will remove the mount and finish welding. After checking the lengths of the B&S starter and alternator, I will have room if I want to add them in the future.
Monday I should get a couple tubes tacked in place after my wife's doctor appointment in the AM.

Added -- The engine is close to the distance it needs to be from the firewall for the W&B. Need to go up 1 + inches and get center line on the center line of the fuselage. Mounting the engine Zero/ Zero. Haven't decided yet, might use a small prop extension.
 

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Have the engine mount tubes tacked together. I'll be adding a curved tube across the top two mounts. Have to make it curved to clear the top rear of the engine case. I will need to slide the engine back on the mount to make sure I get the correct spacing. I ran out of 1/16" tungsten and yesterday went in town and all of the welding supply's are out and looks like it will be the middle of next week before I can get any. Rats. All the welding supplys carry very little 1/16" dia because most of the industrial and weld shops normally use the larger diameters. I don't know anyone in the area that does this type of welding except Dallas and I. So after I get the curved tube tacked in place, I'll unbolt the engine mount and finish welding and a light sand blast and epoxy primer and white paint, bolt back on the fuselage and hang the engine. Think I might go head and use the engine mount for a pattern and weld up a jig from the scrap steel I have before I bolt it back on the fuselage.
 

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Pops

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Checked the fit of the engine mount on the engine and firewall after welding, everything lined up, have good clearance between the engine mount cross tube and the oil tank. Now I need to do a light sand bast and prime and paint. Because of the size, I'll need to sand blast outside. It was -4 degs this morning and had a high temp of 11 degrees with the wind blowing. Not going to get a high temp into the 20's degs for several days. Sure like to get it painted and the engine mounted so I can start the cowling.
 

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Painted the engine mount today in the nice warm hanger/shop. High of 13 degs with a 13 mph wind outside today.
I made aluminum engine mount washers today instead of the heavy steel washers. Used 3/16" thick 2024-T3 aluminum. Four washers saved 4.23 ounces over the heavy steel washers. The steel washers came with the engine and the C-85 engine was off a C-140.
 

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