HVLP turbine for Poly-Tone?

Discussion in 'Finishing Techniques' started by 13brv3, Mar 10, 2019.

  1. Mar 10, 2019 #1

    13brv3

    13brv3

    13brv3

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    Greetings,

    I need to spray a couple coats of Poly-Tone, and it's been decades since the last time I did this. I also have an ugly car that needs a paint job, so I'm looking to buy a self contained HVLP turbine type unit to do both. The leading option right now is the Fuji Semi-Pro 2, which is a reasonably priced 2-stage unit that I know will do the occasional auto painting job.

    My main question is about the thickness of the Poly-Tone when thinned as directed. As I understand, it's a vinyl based paint, but no HVLP gun ever mentioned that. There is plenty of talk about stains, enamels, and thicker latex, and you have to make choices according to which type of paint you plan to use most. How does vinyl Poly-Tone compare in thickness to those? Is it going to be so thick that you shouldn't try to use a 2-stage unit, or will that do the job easily?

    Thanks,
    Rusty (I hate painting)
     
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  2. Mar 10, 2019 #2

    TFF

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    Poly tone thinned is as thick as water. I stopped thinning it as much as the instructions because I felt I was spraying thinner only. I have never sprayed with a turbine but I always just adjust till paint sprays the way I want with any paint.
     
  3. Mar 10, 2019 #3

    Pops

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    I bought a HVLP turbine spray outfit many years ago and have painted about 15-20 airplane and many autos. In painting there is NO expert, some just better than others. I love my turbine and would not go back to anything else. Thin per the instructions and that is a starting point. With the HVLP turbine you will not have any water problems because the air is just compressed to about 5 lbs but the air is a little warmer than what you get in a regular compressor. So you can get a rough orange peel surface on the paint because the paint started to dry before hitting the surface. I usually end up adding about 25% more reducer than specified. I have not found any paint that I can't paint the the HVLP. You also have a lot better control of the paint than with a regular compressor and gun.
    Poly Tone is a very easy paint to paint, really hard not to do a good job. Some auto paints has a small band width between a run and an orange peel. The 2 stage auto paints with the flat base coat and then the clear coat is a really easy to paint. Put on lots of clear coat and buff for the shine that you want. Not so with an aluminum airplane with rivet heads, you get what you spray.
    Get an old car hood and do what TFF said, test on the hood and adjust to get what you want. Then paint .
    Where ever you are painting, you can't get it to clean. Filtered air coming in and as clean as possible. One thing that will help to get the lint and dust out of the air is to use a ground wire on what you are painting to eliminate the static charge on the part being painted and attracting the lint and dust in the air. Take a couple large garbage bags and blow up like a balloon and put in a far corner. The static charge on the bags with attract the lint and dust instead of the part you are painting that is grounded.
    I always get my daughter to help, she is better at painting than I am.

    Added -- buy a fresh air hood for your safety. Best money spent. My turbine compressor will run two guns and two fresh air hoods.
     
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  4. Mar 10, 2019 #4

    13brv3

    13brv3

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    Great comments! Thanks very much. It sounds like the Fuji 2-stage won't be too stressed by the standard thickness of Poly-Tone. That probably also means the standard 1.3mm cap/needle will be a decent starting point as well.

    As for dust, I may very well paint this out on the ramp, or in a very basic plastic enclosure. I don't really expect much from the finish using Poly-Tone on fabric, so as long as the lint is the same color, it's all good :)

    Rusty
     
  5. Mar 10, 2019 #5

    TFF

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    Poly tone is very easy to paint. Way easier than auto paint.
     
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  6. Mar 10, 2019 #6

    Pops

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    I was painting my daughters C-140 that we were restoring to like new. Painting the fabric wings with Poly Fiber metallic Silver urethane. A hard paint to spray to get the metallic right and the silver shows everything.
    Worked about 4 hrs getting the paint booth clean, vacuumed, washed down with a hose, cleaned every corner, ran the exhaust fan for several hours with new filters in the incoming air. Clean as an operating room. Painting the last coat of the last wing. Then a BIG moth with about a 2" wing span appeared out of nowhere and landing in the middle of the wing and started flapping his wings in the fresh paint. I took tweezers and picked it off, mixed some paint with a lot of reducer with very little paint and tried to level the paint. Didn't work, cost another days work. Waited until the paint was dry, blocked sanded the area until level, repainted the whole wing.
    That happens when painting.
     
  7. Mar 10, 2019 #7

    Kyle Boatright

    Kyle Boatright

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    Painting is tough. All sorts of random things seem to happen in the couple of hours when you're somewhat exposed to "one little thing".

    I like to prime and do some painting outdoors. I can pick a day where there is a 0% chance of rain, and a dark cloud will pop up just as soon as I apply the first coat.
     
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  8. Mar 10, 2019 #8

    13brv3

    13brv3

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    My strategy for painting is usually to put off painting until I sell whatever it is :)

    This is an old pair of wings that I painted with Poly-Tone a long time ago. They've been stored indoors, and are just dirty and kinda off-white. My goal is simply to make them Cub yellow with a couple more coats of paint. I'm pretty well convinced the Fuji Semi-Pro 2-stage turbine will do the job now, and I know it will do an occasional car.

    Thanks again for the comments.
    Rusty
     
  9. Mar 10, 2019 #9

    Jay Kempf

    Jay Kempf

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    I have a Lemmer's T55 rig. Not interested in any other type of spray rig. Plug it into 120v mix and spray. Done some cars and airplane stuff with it. No need to worry about oil separators or water, totally self contained, I paid something like $500 Canadian for it when the Canadian dollar was in the crapper 20 years ago. Still going, still recommend the company highly. Open box and start painting.
     
  10. Mar 11, 2019 #10

    13brv3

    13brv3

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    Good to know. The Lemmer's unit looks pretty similar to the Fuji I'm looking at, so it's another vote of confidence that the Fuji will work. I've been trying to decide about the gun type. For the Fuji, they use the same gun, but you can have a to mounted 400 CC cup, or a bottom mounted 1000 CC. I'd probably rather have the top mounted cup, but it's pretty small when you consider that the coverage of Poly-Tone is listed at 200 sq ft per gallon. Fortunately, you can convert from one to the other for about $50 if needed.

    Rusty
     
  11. Mar 11, 2019 #11

    Jay Kempf

    Jay Kempf

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    I have a suction gun which is good for large parts especially ones you can hang or put on a rotisserie. The gravity feed gun is better for tight work and off angle stuff. The best system is the bag in cup system pioneered by DeVilbiss. The liner is filled with no air and collapses around the paint while it is being drawn out so it is better at odd angles if you really have to do something off axis.

    Lemmers was one of the pioneers of the multistage compressor (I think they were Wagner at some point) and they have great service as well as all types of guns of their own designs plus needle sets for any sort of viscosity. Very much a commercial quality system and remember Canadian dollars right now are .75 usd. I couldn't recommend them more. They also have combo units that have both a paint compressor (5psi) and a fresh air blower for a mask which is slick as heck.

    The great thing about the HVLP low pressure systems is that even though it is a full size paint gun you can turn it down like an airbrush for laying a tiny bit of paint into a tiny stripe or something with virtually no overspray. Non HVLP systems have to move a lot of air to move paint so harder to turn down. Overspray is really the big difference at higher flow rates. The 5 psi system just pushes paint out of the pot instead of having to draw it out with a high velocity venturi action. Nozzle air is used to create the atomization and to create whatever pattern you desire. Very different animal. The guy I learned from was an old hot rod guy. He was impressed with this rig. He taught me to keep one primer gun which is always just coated with crap and then a set of finish guns that you keep clean like a surgeon. The best setup is to have one large capacity pot gun and one gravity feed trim gun plus a cheap one for blasting primer.
     
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  12. Mar 11, 2019 #12

    13brv3

    13brv3

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    Thanks for the additional info Jay. It doesn't look like Lemmer makes it real easy to buy their stuff, so I'll probably just stick with the Fuji Semi-Pro 2.

    Rusty
     

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