First, for the highly experienced mechanics here who have been doing engines for many years and know this stuff inside out.... you can have a good laugh at my expense. You can laugh your keester off at how big of a deal I'm making over something that is probably simple or straightforward to you, and then you can laugh your keester off twice over how much of a big discussion this has caused here. I don't take any offense, and I'm very thankful to have people here who can offer some brain cells in areas where I fall short. I'll return the favor somewhere down the road where I'm the one with some useful experience or talent
And with that soaring preamble... Last night before bed I watched the Mike Busch video and looked at his matching website page again.
In terms of mechanical principles and basic physics, I cannot find any fault with his description of why cylinder installations are
somewhat higher risk on a "field replacement" basis compared to a new engine build or full shop overhaul.
His reasons are 1) fastener thread wear, 2) loss of the cad plating layer on stud and nut threads, 3) the likelihood of used through-bolts being present instead of new ones, and 4) poor wrench access affecting how smoothly and uniformly you can apply the torque to the base nut.
He also goes on further to postulate that plain engine oil is a poor choice as the fastener lubricant, and other high pressure lubes like Moly grease would yield better pre-load (bolt stretch) which is the root of the problem.
So I made an assessment of what I have going for me and going against me. My cylinder base nuts were new when I started this, and so are "near new" now. My through-bolts are used, likely original, but the threads are in fairly good shape. I removed everything off of the engine that would impede wrench access, except the pushrod housing tubes which are more or less built in to the cylinder. One cylinder base nut has a built-in limit of about 20 degrees of wrench rotation, so if you don't hit the torque in that arc you fall into the "breakout force" issue that Mike speaks about.
On big thing I have going for me is that I will cheerfully use the Moly grease instead of engine oil, which will likely overcome some of the negative factors that result in lower preload. The factory manual procedures were written before Moly grease was in
widespread daily use; I'm sure it was considered an exotic material in 1948 or whenever the original O-300 overhaul manual was written.