wally
Well-Known Member
As I have mentioned before, My Pitts has a very loud cockpit.
I didn't want to spend the $$$ to buy a new ANR headset so I bought a kit to convert my regular headset to an ANR hesdset. $169 plus shipping I think is what it costs.
Here is what I learned.
Yes it does help. Flip the switch and it gets quieter. It makes my new radio more useable. It does make the headset a little heavier. And now I have an extra little battery pack along with the headset cord to keep up with. I just used velcro to put it on the side of the cockpit.
I am still getting some noise from the microphone that I hope to reduce with a foam muff over it. This ANR consists of 2 modules that repalce the 2 speakers in a normal headset. The modules each have 2 speakers a tiny microphone and a circuit board. They do not do anything to the microphone circuit.
The kit does say silicone gel earseals are really required too in order to make it work well. I don't have those yet either. So those along with a mic muff are on my list of things to buy.
Re-reading the instructions it says the modules will generally fit any make headset similar to the David Clark "H-10 series" It then says the David Clark H-10-13.4 earcups are shallower than most and require extra attention tucking in the wires. The modules fit in my El-cheapo Red Baron headset ok.
You do have to drill a 1/4 in hole on one side to add the power wire from the battery pack.
It is a relativly simple re-wiring job, replacing the wire across the top and adding the power wire on one side. The wire is 28 gauge so you need to be comfortable working with small wire! I do have some experience working on electronics so it was not much of a problem for me. You just have to read the instructions and go slowly. There are a couple of soldered splices to make and then solder 3 wires to each of the modules. Then put some foam around the inside of the cups, put the modules in, add the seals and you are done.
There is a wiring issue on Flightcom 4DX and 5DX headsets. There are supplemental wiring instructions for those headsets.
All in all, the instructions are well written, the components are top quality and it comes with everything you need except tools. It even includes some solder.
I noticed something else interesting when listening to an AWOS that I was flyiing directly to. I heard a lot of "engine noise" along with the reception. As I turned 90 degrees to think about this, the noise faded. What I think is happening is the prop is interfering with my reception when it is between the station and my antenna. The antenna is located on the belly just aft of the engine.
Anyway, I thought I would tell you about it.
Wally
I didn't want to spend the $$$ to buy a new ANR headset so I bought a kit to convert my regular headset to an ANR hesdset. $169 plus shipping I think is what it costs.
Here is what I learned.
Yes it does help. Flip the switch and it gets quieter. It makes my new radio more useable. It does make the headset a little heavier. And now I have an extra little battery pack along with the headset cord to keep up with. I just used velcro to put it on the side of the cockpit.
I am still getting some noise from the microphone that I hope to reduce with a foam muff over it. This ANR consists of 2 modules that repalce the 2 speakers in a normal headset. The modules each have 2 speakers a tiny microphone and a circuit board. They do not do anything to the microphone circuit.
The kit does say silicone gel earseals are really required too in order to make it work well. I don't have those yet either. So those along with a mic muff are on my list of things to buy.
Re-reading the instructions it says the modules will generally fit any make headset similar to the David Clark "H-10 series" It then says the David Clark H-10-13.4 earcups are shallower than most and require extra attention tucking in the wires. The modules fit in my El-cheapo Red Baron headset ok.
You do have to drill a 1/4 in hole on one side to add the power wire from the battery pack.
It is a relativly simple re-wiring job, replacing the wire across the top and adding the power wire on one side. The wire is 28 gauge so you need to be comfortable working with small wire! I do have some experience working on electronics so it was not much of a problem for me. You just have to read the instructions and go slowly. There are a couple of soldered splices to make and then solder 3 wires to each of the modules. Then put some foam around the inside of the cups, put the modules in, add the seals and you are done.
There is a wiring issue on Flightcom 4DX and 5DX headsets. There are supplemental wiring instructions for those headsets.
All in all, the instructions are well written, the components are top quality and it comes with everything you need except tools. It even includes some solder.
I noticed something else interesting when listening to an AWOS that I was flyiing directly to. I heard a lot of "engine noise" along with the reception. As I turned 90 degrees to think about this, the noise faded. What I think is happening is the prop is interfering with my reception when it is between the station and my antenna. The antenna is located on the belly just aft of the engine.
Anyway, I thought I would tell you about it.
Wally
