I have a Rans. They use Stewart's for their factory-made fabric-covered airplanes and a good quality automotive topcoat. Kitfox uses PPG Aeorspace topcoat on their factory-built planes. They look gorgeous from what I've seen at Oshkosh. I'm not sure but I think that's what Rans uses.I'm a first time builder. I used Stewart's on my Highlander and am happy with the results. I built and painted my plane in my garage attached to my house so using the solvent based paints was not an option. It is impossible to keep the noxious smell of the solvent based products out of a house with an attached garage. I had no odor issues with Stewart's. The Stewart's glue and paint are not toxic, only a respirator is needed when spraying the top coat, no separate air supply required. The glue is very user friendly, it is heat activated so no need to work with wet glue, no need to use clamps to attach the fabric to the frame when covering.
Whatever system you choose go to one of the manufactures weekend workshops to learn the right way to use their product. It may involve traveling and end up costing a few bucks but it will be cheap at twice the price whenView attachment 97077View attachment 97077 covering/painting your plane.
Nitrate is terribly flammable. Butyrate not so much, but still flammable. Many airplanes were nitrate topcoated with butyrate to reduce the fire hazard. Nitrate stuck to the fabric better or something. That's all from memory and might, again, be off some.If you’re a connoisseur of dope smell,
I propose nitrate is much more enjoyable than byutrate. Polyfiber is more plebeian. Discuss amongst yourselves.
I have never used PPG paints myself. Maybe not the easiest to use, but judging from the quality of the paint jobs on their factory-made planes, I'm sure Kitfox has the best equipment and expertise for using that line of paints.I have used a lot of PPG paints. Its not the easiest paints to use.
Yes, it's a urethane top color, compatible with the Polyfiber system and just about everything else. I used it a lot and when it goes on right, it's great. Like all urethanes it's impossible to make a welll hidden repair and you're better off spraying the whole thing if you need to. Dope and Polytone can be blended in well.What’s “Ranthane” from Randolph?
Is that a top coat that’s used on the Polyfiber system?
Sometimes I think surgically clean is not clean enough. When painting my daughter's 1948 Cessna 140, I spent about 4 hrs vacuuming , washing , cleaning, etc, the paint booth. A piss ant couldn't have got past me. Turned the exhaust fans on drawing the filtered air in for a couple hours. I always blow a couple large trash bags up and put them in the corners of the room to attract any lint in the air and run a ground wire from the hanger steel to what I'm painting. My daughter is in the booth with me and we both have fresh air hoods on. If I need a little more light somewhere she moves the light so I can get the needed reflection on the surface. Everything came out very nice until putting the last coat of Metallic Silver on the top of the last wing. Something shape shifted into a moth with about a 3" wing span and flopped down on the wing right in the middle and started to flapping his wings in the paint. Cost one more day of painting.Yes, it's a urethane top color, compatible with the Polyfiber system and just about everything else. I used it a lot and when it goes on right, it's great. Like all urethanes it's impossible to make a welll hidden repair and you're better off spraying the whole thing if you need to. Dope and Polytone can be blended in well.
Another point for us amateurs: dope and Polytone dries fast and is very forgiving to shoot, you can do a good job in mediocre conditions. If you want urethanes you better have a surgically clean paint booth or you'll be cursing a lot as you sand out the dust and bugs and then try to buff the paint.