Cutting fittings

Discussion in 'Workshop Tips and Secrets / Tools' started by Craig, Jan 30, 2003.

Help Support HomeBuiltAirplanes Forum by donating:

  1. Jan 30, 2003 #1

    Craig

    Craig

    Craig

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2003
    Messages:
    543
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Jupiter, Florida
    Like many homebuilders, I do not own a bandsaw that travels slow enough to cut steel. Instead, I use a very acurate, but slow method: A jeweller's saw.
    These come in various frame depths, with a 5" depth fitting most occaisions. The blades are about 5" long, and also come in different sizes, but here the size is the thickness of the blade and the number of teeth. A #2 blade works about right for most of the .032 to .090 thickness of 4130 steel. A higher number, such as #4, works fine for .125. DO NOT get the 2/0 blades - they are even smaller, and break more readily.
    I use an ultra-fine point sharpie to mark the line on the metal - and the blades are thin enough to cut right on the line. Clamp the work so it extends over the edge of the table, and use a vertical motion of the saw frame. Just remember to only pull straight down, saves a lot of broken blades. You can cut a 90-degree angle if you keep the blade moving a bit while you make the turn - the blades are about the same thickness as the kerf.
    A few quick passes with a file finishes the pieces.:)
     

Share This Page

arrow_white