- May 16, 2009
I can't reprogram the ignitions, but it would be great to be able to do so! The sensors are on the adjustable bracket so I can shift the whole curve around. The ignition modules have a curve of sorts programmed in. I have attached a file with the two versions of the Rcexl ignitions that I am using, I have verified the A-01 curve but not the A-02, no reason to suspect its not good.It has been a while since I ran my engine......I put a timing lght on it and I think it was variable , or maybe it jumped to 30 and stayed there from TDC for starting. I thought the model ignitions were pretty similar. My trigger is just past TDC so it does not run backwards......Can you vary your ignition?
The vibration from the engines tends to crack the tubing of the engine mount. Since there is a vibrating mass on the end of a pole, it tends to want to snap off very near where the engine moutn is bolted to frame 1. I haven't seen any documentation to support this, but my theory is that very early on in CriCri history, the engine mounts started cracking and this suspension design is what they came up with to reduce the fatigue to very low levels.Don't understand this part of the Cri Cri design. Why so many layers and safety critical stuff hanging on Orings? Vibration?
The thrust forces (and some of the torsion) are all taken up by the 4 music wires clamped by bolts. If the rubber bands all break, the engines will stay put by the linking bars will flop around inside the fairings. The engines will still stay attached.I figured it was fatigue but that is rather elaborate. I think I would want bolts through holes with grommets so that there was no spontaneous disassembly path. I suppose that's a lot of rubber bands so a lot of redundancy. Is there a TBO list for tricky parts of the design? Or just pre-flight and replace upon condition inspection...
I would hesitate to drill the through the rods themselves, I think the rods need to be as smooth and stress riser free as possible, I may even polish mine, apart from where they fit in the clamps. I am not aware of any issues with the music wire rods slipping unless you have heard otherwise?Shannon-
Nice adaptation for the boxer engines.
Looking at this, I would drill the rods at the aft end flush with the aft face of the mount for a safety pin;
also I would drill the clamp bolt heads to accept safety wire to prevent vibrational loosening so the mount rod
does not migrate fwds, just to be on the safe side.