My aero-VW engine lives in a heated hanger and I still make sure the oil temps are at least 110-120 degs before moving. WOT rpm is about 50 rpm lower with oil below 150 degs.
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Wait did I miss that? Was it another thread? I just picked up a VW conversion that was on a KR2. Got a Revmaster conversion manual and one for the Ellison carb that came with it. Are those documents sufficient to guide the rebuild for a safe useful engine, or do I need Pop's special sauce?
Pops has sprinkled a lot of wisdom and "how I did it" info into several threads. The advanced search, using his user name and some keywords, should turn those up.
The Great Plains assembly manual is also a great source of information, and well worth the modest price. That should give you most of what you need.
If you want some general (non-aviation) info on rebuilding VW engines, there are a couple of good books available. The old standard, that's still pretty good, is "How to Rebuild Your Air-Cooled Volkswagen Engine," by Tom Wilson. There is a newer book out now that is also very good, and has much better photo illustrations. It is "How to Rebuild VW Air-Cooled Engines," by Prescott Phillips. Both books are available through Amazon and the usual VW parts vendors.
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Good morning or whatever it happens to be in your neck of the woods. I am considered to be a well-known member which I guess I'm not totally sure what that means but hopefully I have a little bit of credibility consider it I may be telling or asking a less than bright question.
I am looking for VP 2. I am going to be flying I guess what most people would say is a lesser perform based aircraft for now. I have some friends that get in and out of shorter fields and so I might be considering parting with my Tailwind. The other thing is I may just keep both of them but I am very serious about finding VP 2 with or without an engine. I have not seen any recently on the more popular sites so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Doran Jaffas
I am looking for VP 2. I am going to be flying I guess what most people would say is a lesser perform based aircraft for now. I have some friends that get in and out of shorter fields and so I might be considering parting with my Tailwind. The other thing is I may just keep both of them but I am very serious about finding VP 2 with or without an engine. I have not seen any recently on the more popular sites so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Doran Jaffas
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Put together an ignition system for the dual ignition needed for the 1835 cc VW engine. Works on the bench. For the top plugs using 2 GM HEI modules for a wasted spark system with using 2- hall effect sensors. Same for the bottom plugs. Mechanical spark retard for starting 2 degrees after TDC for handproping. Adjustable stops for setting retard and 28 degree advance timing. Pull choke type cable to retard timing for starting.
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Richard Roller
Well-Known Member
Doing a similar system. I wasn't sure how to wire the hall effect sensors, so I'm using crank position sensors. Two per coil, one retard and one to run on. Switched between sensors for start and run.
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Is it spring loaded, so it returns to the "run" position when you release the cable?
I will be hand propping so I was thinking of pulling the choke type cable out and having a small metal lock to hold it out for starting. Could use a locking throttle cable for the job. Also maybe a light spring so if the cable breaks or come lose the timing will stay at full advance.
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Ken Powell
Well-Known Member
I'm building a Briggs and Stratton 993cc generator engine for my minimax 1600. The plan is to be direct drive, no generator/alternator (to remove the 19 lb flywheel), and no starter.
For the ignition system I'm running 2 separate GM HEI's for each cylinder. This will be a reluctor type system. For each cylinder:
One HEI at zero degrees (top dead center) for hand propping and one HEI set at 28 degrees BTDC for full power. Start on the 0 degree HEI then switch to the 28 degree HEI after the engine is running.
Here is a great article on reluctor type ignitions: http://nebula.wsimg.com/5956cdbfbf7...E22DE049163134A29&disposition=0&alloworigin=1
If this doesn't work out I have a backup plan - add a ring gear and a starter.
For the ignition system I'm running 2 separate GM HEI's for each cylinder. This will be a reluctor type system. For each cylinder:
One HEI at zero degrees (top dead center) for hand propping and one HEI set at 28 degrees BTDC for full power. Start on the 0 degree HEI then switch to the 28 degree HEI after the engine is running.
Here is a great article on reluctor type ignitions: http://nebula.wsimg.com/5956cdbfbf7...E22DE049163134A29&disposition=0&alloworigin=1
If this doesn't work out I have a backup plan - add a ring gear and a starter.
Richard Roller
Well-Known Member
I should add this is for a Model A engine.
Bill-Higdon
Well-Known Member
The article you reference uses Lucas parts just be sure to have plenty of replacement smoke
I need to get back on another project that I never finished. Ignition for the bottom spark plugs that can be on or off, or on standby . On standby the ignition will come on when the primary ignition is off for .5 seconds with a warning light when the primary ignition goes off.
Ken Powell
Well-Known Member
The Lucas parts were manufactured under license from GM. GM HEI ignitions work in the same manner. Lots of good info in that article regarding ignition intensity based on RPM. And I agree, I would not touch anything electrical from Lucas.
