# Brutality Today

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#### pictsidhe

##### Well-Known Member
Good to see progress and that you are finally getting that trailer ready to roll.
Please do not attempt even taxi-ing the poorgirl with the trike gear, that sounds like it is poorly balanced and is very likely to end extremely badly if you get it airborne on your 3000' runway. I could blah on with physics and maths, but you'd fall asleep...
Follow Billski's universal advice and follow plans, at least until you understand exactly why they were drawn that way!

#### choppergirl

##### Banned

Volmer chassis on right

Screwed down only in the center corners (which is why it looks wavy), had to paint all the edges first (got them propped up), and some scavenged vinyl siding trim slips under the right and left edge as last step. Rather proud of all my corners.

Can't answer any replies atm, fingers covered in sticky enamel paint, dead tired and dehydrated. Going home until tomorrow....

~

I cried all the way home, why did it have to be so hard and take so long...

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#### blane.c

##### Well-Known Member
HBA Supporter
It is only a matter of time, it is going to get some dirt on it. Hurray!

#### choppergirl

##### Banned
I roll with some old gangstas.... think I'd look dististinguished with a beard like that?

Differential Ailerons, Greg's video in question:

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#### choppergirl

##### Banned
You spend a $100 bucks on a hamburger; I save$100 bucks by making my own Trailer Ramps.

I posted these to homebuiltaircrafttrailerramps.com.... used lots of pop rivets and grinder action and propane tank paint... derusted their rusty butt with phosphoric acid and painted them with old school brown rusty metal primer.... that stuffs da bomb, it dries quick in the sun.

Top side, with channels for wheels to roll down:

Had a fun time improvised engineering with a sledge hammer on some steel L channel bending it from 90 degrees to 60 degrees, to make an edge that slides into a slot along the back edge of my trailer.

Bottom sides, pop riveted in every 6 inches, you can see the 60 degree channel steel that hooks into the back edge of the trailer:

#### blane.c

##### Well-Known Member
HBA Supporter
I think he is saying your hitch will likely swivel in actual use and bind up with the trailer making a mess, and possibly cause a wreck.

#### blane.c

##### Well-Known Member
HBA Supporter
You can likely salvage a receiver hitch to fit your truck for a reasonable amount of money. It will save you embarrassment, frustration and in the end be less expensive.

#### pictsidhe

##### Well-Known Member
Nice 300lb hitch. Now you just need a toy trailer for it.

#### Hot Wings

##### Grumpy Cynic
HBA Supporter
Log Member
Don't want to pile on here but that hitch is just fine - for pulling things around the yard. I've seen a few trailers go autonomous and it never ends well, even with the safety chains attached.

I know it's more work but the proper way to fix this is to put a longer "Z" on the trailer. You need all of the angle you can get to make it back up in tight places. I had to do the "Z" to my little trailer last year because new trucks are so much taller. Was worth my time even though I could have just plugged a drop into the receiver.
Some cheap castors on the back corners, or even skateboard skids, can help with the scraping.

#### BBerson

##### Well-Known Member
HBA Supporter
That bolt through the bumper should be much larger. Same size as the ball bolt.

#### pictsidhe

##### Well-Known Member
No, bigger. It has more leverage on it. That is assuming it is the same grade. If cheese grade, bigger again. But then, the 'receiver' may not be meaty enough.

Best plan would be to buy or weld up a proper towbar frame that bolts to the chassis. Failing that, use the standard position ball and live with the droop.
It might be possible to weld a receiver onto the underside of the S10 bumper. I'll have a look at mine on Monday.

#### BBerson

##### Well-Known Member
HBA Supporter
Looks like the same lever arm distance to me. I assume the flange bar prevents swivel or could be fitted with a steel bar welded on.
Check out this rig that went across the country. That's a two seat tow car.

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#### Dana

##### Super Moderator
Staff member
Yes, the bolt holding the hitch should be at least as large as the stud on the ball... and throw that square nut in the scrap bin, use a proper grade 5 or 8 bolt and lock nut. Other than that, it looks at least as strong as the homemade hitch I put on an ancient Oldsmobile station wagon and towed an even older Winnebago camper around the northeast. Just be sure the bumper itself is strong enough to handle the load trying to twist it, and that the hitch can't pivot on the bolt.

#### Hot Wings

##### Grumpy Cynic
HBA Supporter
Log Member
Look at the size of the pin and GTW (Gross Towed Weight ) of this one.Looks similar to me.
Similar size but it's in essentially double shear on a pin with no stress risers, not a 10 to one lever through the threads of a rusty bolt in addition to the longitudinal loads.

50 pound tongue weight at 10 to one lever(estimated)and a 10G load from potholes = 5000 pounds on that bolt in tension. (FOS=1)

If that notch does keep things from twisting around the bolt, a king size bolt with a properly torqued lock nut, might make this a safe combination.

#### blane.c

##### Well-Known Member
HBA Supporter
This has been done before LOL. Get a receiver mount from the junkyard to fit the truck, done.

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