3D printing in the Homebuilt world.

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Neal Scherm

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1 bottom layer, 999 top layers and increase your "allowed perimeter overlap" (last tab in advanced slicing settings under thin wall behavior) to 25+%

No change...
Dang

Also, It is REALLY small. I printed it with a .4 tip. I will need to go down to a .25 or smaller to get the detail.
Here is the printed part.
 

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Hephaestus

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YMM
No change...
Dang

Also, It is REALLY small. I printed it with a .4 tip. I will need to go down to a .25 or smaller to get the detail.
Here is the printed part.
Yeah Didn't so much think of the sizing, those are pretty thin walls - you might want to play with extrusion width and thin wall settings, see if you can get it to force an infill area or interior perimeter. Switching to a .2 or .1 comes with that radical lack of strength so...

Or print it as a PVA mold then fill with epoxy and vacuum out the bubbles - soak and call it done. That size for a functional part will always be fun
 

Neal Scherm

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I was worried about the threads holding up as well.

I'll print a mold for you if you go that way. Find myself making molds more than parts. I'm making a plug for Solo now out of 24x24x12 printed blocks. I print guide holes in them then assemble them like blue foam. Only there's no shaping and sanding involved :) I'll splash the molds off the plug. Cool thing is NOTHING sticks to the print unless I MAKE it.

It does require a little bit of filler to fill the layers. I use cheap home depot enamel paint and spray on two light coats. Let it flash off for a couple minutes and then spray clear urethane on top. It levels like crazy. Don't spray so much you fill voids or change the profile... Let cure overnight, wax and layup. Where was this when I built my Dragonfly????
 

gtae07

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FWIW I got an Ender 3 about a year ago. Right out of the box it printed better than the Makerbot at work ever did. It's fairly simple to use.
 

FritzW

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Having had the time to rethink all of this I'm leaning toward taking FritzW's advice. The last hing I need is another time suck hobby...
My comment was meant as a tongue and cheek welcome to the wonderful world of 3D printing.
ie. "smart people" know better than to get a new hobby but folks like us jump right in.

(general comment to no one in particular)
People worry so much about choosing which airplane to build that they end up never building anything, same with with 3D printers. If you're waiting for the perfect printer at the right price you'll never get started. Just get any old cheapy POS printer and play with it for a few months. When your ready for a better printer, trade it to the neighbor kid for mowing your lawn. By then you'll know exactly what you really want.
 

proppastie

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Interesting,
When I try to slice the part it changes form. This is how it shows on Simplify.
Since it's a simple print I will run it and see what comes out
the part was built by union and subtractions of different 3D extrusions

early part was Autocad V14 very old....last one I posted was opened in Fusion 360 and saved from there.....not sure how that affects the .stl output but the later one is bigger number of bits.

will be interesting to see if it can print a .030 hole and what the final dimensions are compared to the drawn dimensions.
 
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Neal Scherm

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the part was built by union and subtractions of different 3D extrusions

early part was Autocad V14 very old....last one I posted was opened in Fusion 360 and saved from there.....not sure how that affects the .stl output but the later one is bigger number of bits.

will be interesting to see if it can print a .030 hole and what the final dimensions are compared to the drawn dimensions.

I can print a .015" hole with a .1mm tip. It's just gonna take a LOOOOOOONG time. My tolerances are .005"+/-. This unit uses ballscrew actuators with zero backlash nuts, riding on twin ball bearing rails. They are used on the Apache tail rotor.
I use seven drives (4x, 2Y and 1 X) and they cost $700 ea. They are a pretty far shot from the rubber belts most printers use :)
Final tolerance is set by the print medium and I can adjust for shrinkage. It took me a bit of time to compensate the drives, but I am within 1/1600 mm. That's how many steps resolution I have. I compensated each drive screw.

That all being said, I use a .40 tip and HOG stuff out at .3mm resolution 99% of the time. Works out to 100 lines per inch. Still good enough for government work...

This is a rendering of the 32x32x16 unit I am putting together now. With how long things take to print, I don't have the patience to go any bigger. It's sole purpose will be to print molds for Solo.
 

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Hot Wings

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My comment was meant as a tongue and cheek
Yes, I know. But like a lot of off the cuff remarks sometimes they carry a lot more truth than intended.

Right now I have no time for toys. Life has put me in a situation where I can't use the tools I have. My need for a 3D printer, as a tool, is in the future...........one that won't arrive if I get too distracted.
 

Neal Scherm

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View attachment 91350

So I looked up Solo.....looks like a great looking little bird.

Maybe my model is screwed up?....od of the part is .3646
Thank you,
I wanted to replace the S-14 I built with something a LOT less draggy. I'm going to use a B&S Big Block engine with a Rotax "E" box to power it instead of that thirsty 582..
For some reason the outside wall is not being picked up. I'll draw it up on SolidWorks and see what I get.
 

addicted2climbing

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I can print a .015" hole with a .1mm tip. It's just gonna take a LOOOOOOONG time. My tolerances are .005"+/-. This unit uses ballscrew actuators with zero backlash nuts, riding on twin ball bearing rails. They are used on the Apache tail rotor.
I use seven drives (4x, 2Y and 1 X) and they cost $700 ea. They are a pretty far shot from the rubber belts most printers use :)
Final tolerance is set by the print medium and I can adjust for shrinkage. It took me a bit of time to compensate the drives, but I am within 1/1600 mm. That's how many steps resolution I have. I compensated each drive screw.

That all being said, I use a .40 tip and HOG stuff out at .3mm resolution 99% of the time. Works out to 100 lines per inch. Still good enough for government work...

This is a rendering of the 32x32x16 unit I am putting together now. With how long things take to print, I don't have the patience to go any bigger. It's sole purpose will be to print molds for Solo.
Neal,

I like the way you think with 3D printing molds. I need a large format printer as well and will design my own in the new year. I am a bit locked up with a project until mid February, but plan to start the design as soon as I am done. I was considering a build volume of 24" x 36" x 18" It will be cartesian based and use some linear rails I have acquired over the years. However, I see you chose a square format and curious if I should rethink to be 36" square instead. Is the one your building your own design?
 

Neal Scherm

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Neal,

I like the way you think with 3D printing molds. I need a large format printer as well and will design my own in the new year. I am a bit locked up with a project until mid February, but plan to start the design as soon as I am done. I was considering a build volume of 24" x 36" x 18" It will be cartesian based and use some linear rails I have acquired over the years. However, I see you chose a square format and curious if I should rethink to be 36" square instead. Is the one your building your own design?

Yes, My current and new printer are my own combo of ideas. My thinking is if you can't beat'em, hire a hitman... :) The layout was easy. Making it work right was not. ACTUATORS ARE EVERYTHING!
Biggest hurtle is locking everything down tight to eliminate vibration. At 100mm/s things get to shaking. I use .19 6063 plates for my cabinet. My 24x24 weighs 150lbs. My 32x32 will weigh 200.
Definitely not a desktop printer LOL.

My goal was to make the outside dimensions as small as possible in relation to build volume. I've seen a 12" printer take up 30" of space. Mine is only 3" larger than build plate on each side.
I went with square cause the heat mats I use are square :) I had 4-12x12 and 4 16x16's available, so wasn't a long thought process.

I will make one recommendation to you. Use the Azteeg X3 pro board. It has everything you need for the printer on one board. 8 stepper drivers. 2 heated bed controllers. 2 extruder heaters and fans. 2 Thermocouples if you want to go to 500c. AND it's made in Irvine, CA. NOT China. They have great support that speaks English :)

My printer consists of:
Azteeg board.
24v 25a power supply
24v- to 120v 10a relay for the heater mat.
Heater mat.
7- actuators.
Extruder.

That and a frame is all you need. Firmware is Repetier and slicer is Simplify3d.
I have about $5000 ea in them. $4300 for the actuators, $135 for the board and about $500 for the frame. The mats and power supply I had already.
If you have rails. Your home free (almost)

Have fun with your designing. I'll be happy to share files and ideas when you get going.

Fly safe,

Neal
 

Neal Scherm

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OK,
This looks better. I need to scrounge up a .1 tip, but I can print it. .3645 OD
Back to my fellow posters point. You will be happier with a urethane part poured in a mold for longevity. It is just as easy to print the mold.

Let me know, cause it will determine what it needs to be printed in.
N
 

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Neal Scherm

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Yes, I know. But like a lot of off the cuff remarks sometimes they carry a lot more truth than intended.

Right now I have no time for toys. Life has put me in a situation where I can't use the tools I have. My need for a 3D printer, as a tool, is in the future...........one that won't arrive if I get too distracted.
Sorry to go off topic here, but a little birdie told me I should ask you about fuel injection for my B&S engine.
I am assembling a big block and would like to ditch this baby carb they put on it.

Any suggestions?
 

Hot Wings

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EFI for the industrial is a WAYyyy back burner project now. By the time I get back to it it should have been pretty well worked out by some others - especially the Russian guy on my old thread. The factory versions are fine as is for ground use but need some tweaks to be called aircraft grade.
 

Neal Scherm

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It looks kind of wobbly. There are sturdier Core XY style printers in that price range.

I'm building a Hypercube Evolution (waiting for the T slot). I'll decide on the controller and hot end when the time comes.

<internet pictures>
View attachment 90913

View attachment 90914
I can suggest a controller ( I should buy stock :) and that is the Azteeg X3 pro. All you will ever need and USA made. Currently trading at $135 or so. You will make up the cost on other parts saved.
My printer uses the board, a power source and a dc/ac relay for the heat plate. Super simple to set up the firmware with Repetier (FREE). Get the 24v. Heaters are faster and more accurate. I hold .1 or .2c on extruder and heat bed. Industrial strength components. Look it up.

Unfortunately, the best extruder ever made was run out of business by the Chinese. A small start up in Minnisota built a TANK up till a couple years ago. I have about 3500 hours on my dual head and its the energizer bunny. I bought a second way back because I was planning on having two printers and am happy as a horse in the derby I did. Someday I will need a replacement I suppose so I am looking at what is on the horizon. Next year there are two or three new designs coming up. Stay away from ANY plastic parts. Makes life too complicated when you print Hi Temp stuff.

Just my .02
 

Neal Scherm

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EFI for the industrial is a WAYyyy back burner project now. By the time I get back to it it should have been pretty well worked out by some others - especially the Russian guy on my old thread. The factory versions are fine as is for ground use but need some tweaks to be called aircraft grade.
Thank you,
Russian guy seems to be working on a lot of stuff. I wonder how good support will be. I'll check with Ross and see what he has. Just wanted your opinion :)
 
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