3D printing in the Homebuilt world.

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radfordc

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Looks like the $47 printers are gone from ebay now. They have an $80 Ender 3.
 

FritzW

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Las Cruces, NM
The price went up 50 cents. ...probably just to cover the extra 7,000 miles of transoceanic, international shipping.
 

addicted2climbing

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Glendale, CA
Good Day all,

Just found this forum and it is great to find some other crazies working with additive manufacturing.

6 years ago I discovered the tech, but could not find any reliable machines. Also, they were REALLY small build surfaces. 12x12x12 was HUGE then and very expensive.
I wanted a large build area and I wanted leadscrews instead of timing belts for the axis drives. No one offered one for less than "WAY TOO FRICKEN MUCH", so I designed and built my own.

It took 5 years and 4 different designs to find what I wanted. And I thought building planes was hard and time consuming... But I finally succeeded. I now have a 24"x24"x18" printer with a heated bed. I am building a 36x36x18 now to join it. Both use the Azteeg X3 pro boards and leadscrew drives. I use 2 screws for Y, 1 screw for X and 4 screws for Z. I still have room for two extruders.

I have been playing with this model for a year now and have about 2500 hours on it. I have tried printing every thing except PEEK. My extruder can hit 500c and my bed 150c, so I know I can print it, just haven't had a use. The best stuff I have found so far is NylonX from Matterhackers. It is Nylon with 30% chopped CF fibers added for strength and stiffness. It is all I use now. Kinda expensive, but LIGHT and STRONG, so worth it. Also, don't even think about trying to print with out a 75c degree bed. and purple glue stick.

What I have found is that PLA. PETG, and PLA Tough are all "TOY" materials. Great for desk items, but maybe not really suited to our environment. PETG with CF is stiff, but brittle. PETG solo is just very brittle, not stiff. PLA degrades way too fast. PLA Tough is better, but it is still PLA and not what I would consider durable enough for an aircraft part. PETG is durable and will stick without a heat plate, but I have found it to be so brittle that a part broke just dropping it on the floor. I printed a wing core with NylonX and drove my van over it. It just laughed.

Sorry to ramble, just happy to find some fellow minds. I am anxious to draw on the experiences of others and happy to share my experiences with any newbies trying to find their way to the hobby's greatest gift. The wonderful (not) world of 3d printing.

Fly safe,
Neal
Neal,
Nice job on your own designed printer. I have an application to replace an injection molded piece that is used in my wingrib. I did my research and decided NylonG would be perfect. I chose G since I was a bit worried about possible galvanic issues of the carbon in the matrix and the aluminum tube I will mount it to. I hear NylonG is quite strong as well and should be perfect for my need. Now I have yet to have a chance to print it. I plan to enclose my Ender5 and modify the heck out of it to print the NylonG part. Seems you have a good deal of experience. What temp do you run your bed at for NylonX? Is your machine enclosed and if not since its so large, do you have issues with warping or layer adhesion. What hotend are you using?
 

proppastie

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Feb 19, 2012
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Do you have a picture and dimensions? I have a little time while I'm waiting on some prints and might be able to conjure something.
I hesitate for you to put much time into it as I did the drawing very quickly....it is to scale ....if you want can go to Fusion 360 or send dxf or figure something out. I should spend lots more time to 3D model the male connector...

STSCON1.jpg IMG_20191218_125440.jpg

edit: https://www.engineersedge.com/hardware/metric-external-thread-sizes1.htm

od of thread measures .45 but I do not see a M11.5 thread so it could be M12x.75 or M11x.75 or some special electrical part.

the joy of reverse engineering.

made 3d model and .stl file, now to see if you can see/use them
 

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proppastie

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eBay pulled/closed all of the listings.
are you going to get your money back?

BE extra careful of Craigslist.....I have a friend does airplane flips, and often there will be a too good to be true price on that site, and its does not get removed. He often finds the real listing on Controller with much higher price.
 

Hot Wings

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are you going to get your money back?
Nope! I resisted the urge and double checked the vendor.
Missed a legitimate good deal on an Ender 5 that same day by being too cautious...someone else snagged it while I was doing the "checkout" thing and waiting for the 2 part authentication on my PayPal.

I just wonder how often this happens. Between the so low prices that many won't even bother to follow up and the fact that most won't even know they have been duped for a week or more while they are waiting for shipping this might go on a lot and go undetected/unreported.

In this case the overall take, by quick calculation, was easily in excess of $100K during the first evening I watched it unfold.
 

addicted2climbing

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"Nope" - as in I never gave them any money. Can't get back what I didn't spend ;):cool:

I tend to check out who I'm dealing with when the $'s get over about 50.
Hotwings what price are you looking for on an ender5? Is the previous version ok or are you hoping to find the newer larger one used? Reason I ask is many want to upgrade to the larger now and I could post on the FB group to see if anyone has one for sale. Also where are you located?
 

Hot Wings

Grumpy Cynic
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Hotwings what price are you looking for on an ender5?
Thanks for the offer!

The Ender 3 size is probably good enough for me. But....................

Having had the time to rethink all of this I'm leaning toward taking FritzW's advice. The last hing I need is another time suck hobby and the granddaughter is realistically another 2 years from being able to actually learn to use one.

While I do have a real need for some 3D printing in the future It may be cheaper and more efficient to just send the files to someone and let them have the headache of figuring out how to make it print correctly.

I'm pretty set on only a new unit. I've found that used electronics of this complexity often don't make the trip through disassembly and repackaging very well. It's just too easy to end up with stripped threads or a broken wire at a joint to turn a perfectly operational unit into a diagnostic/repair chore upon reassembly.

After Xmas I'm betting I can score a NIB 5 for under $200 on eBay. If not I'll just wait until I need, rather than want, one.
 

Neal Scherm

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Sep 1, 2019
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47
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Riverside, CA
I hesitate for you to put much time into it as I did the drawing very quickly....it is to scale ....if you want can go to Fusion 360 or send dxf or figure something out. I should spend lots more time to 3D model the male connector...

View attachment 91315 View attachment 91317

edit: https://www.engineersedge.com/hardware/metric-external-thread-sizes1.htm

od of thread measures .45 but I do not see a M11.5 thread so it could be M12x.75 or M11x.75 or some special electrical part.

the joy of reverse engineering.

made 3d model and .stl file, now to see if you can see/use them


The STL looks good. Let me see what I can do.
N
 

Neal Scherm

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Sep 1, 2019
Messages
47
Location
Riverside, CA
Interesting,
When I try to slice the part it changes form. This is how it shows on Simplify.
Since it's a simple print I will run it and see what comes out
 

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Hephaestus

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Jun 25, 2014
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YMM
1 bottom layer, 999 top layers and increase your "allowed perimeter overlap" (last tab in advanced slicing settings under thin wall behavior) to 25+%
 
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