Armilite
Well-Known Member
I found this thread on another site, and thought some People maybe interested in this.
Here you go.
Liquid Level Switches | Pressure Sensors & Switches | Flow Sensors - Gemsâ„¢ Sensors & Controls
You'll want part # 165900 for gasoline (.65 min Sp.Gr.)
Drill a hole at the level you would like the light to warn you.
It's self-sealing.
$37.00 each plus shipping.
The guys building ultralight aircraft like using these, as running out of fuel could spoil their day.
CORECTION HOLE FOR SENDER IS 7/8”
I did THIS 5 years ago and its perfect. I kept the cable intact and connected it to a magnet and reed switch.
I then connected it to a timer-board circuit that has a relay output to my idiot light.
The timer board stops the light from blinking me to death when it gets low on gas.
The timer board selected tolerates 30 seconds of reed opening before it trips the relay which is also timed.
Its one of the best home brew things that I have done to my buggy and
is a keeper!
Light comes on when low for about 10 seconds and stays on when in the dangerously low range.
You will want this particular board to make it work cool, even if you use a micro switch instead of the glass reed switch.
If interested I will post where to buy the board and reeds.
THIS was more pertaining to the topic of "no guage"...
I thought I was the only one that thought it was a good, simple idea
but I guess not.
The best ready made board for that application happened to be:
a telephone line monitor control from Silent Knight Co.
Its normally used for monitoring the dial-out voltage of a phone-line for the security industry as a trouble indicator but is ideal for the fuel tank
prossesor card. Has a form-c or normally open or closed relay.
The factory buffer is 30 seconds (non-adjustable but is perfect).
Sloshing gas and accelleration do not effect the reading as it would with a straight switch.
Also from the security industry is the reed switch (no sparks because its in a glass sealed tube) ... very tiny.
Let me know if you need more info and how to wire.
My company can get the S/K board (ideal for this use I found) although an alarm part and maybe wholesale only.... or see Altronix for general timer boards if you are into fabbing it yourself.
As I mentioned to the pm's, I think its the only one that S/K makes in the stand alone format.
2"x2"x6" aluminum box with a cable/wire clamp on the end.
I put everything in the alumonum box, Switch( reed type ) and magnet
on a little home made swing lever that connects to my original 66 float and cable.
I elected to keep the cable because this "box" is now just under my dash and I can tweek the cable length for adjustment.
Microswitches and the like, at the float assembly may be hard to get at if you need adjustment.
Anyway, thats the way I did mine and its rock stable for years.
If there a hang-up with getting the box/board, I can get them.
Do the lo-fuel sensors above have electronics in them and prosess the the reading or what? You may not need a timer board.??????
Whats the scoop on these and what do they give you as far output on contact with gas.
Thats what I meant.. thanks
Mainly I was thinking that there is a "smart sensor" already out there and
no board required.
The SK board works as such for those interested:
When powered, the board looks for 12 volts at two screw terminals.
If it sees 12 volts at the terminals, it remains inactive. (relay form-c)
If it loses the 12 volts, a timer starts for 30 seconds.
Any restoral of the 12volts restarts the timer back to 30 seconds.
When the sloshing gas averages out to 30 plus seconds of open switch the light will just start to come on.... longer and longer until an extremely low tank will keep the light on as there is no reset pulse at this point.
It should work with any switch that can run closed when there is gas.
This again is all transistorized, and current on your elected float switch is nill.
OK, just called my distributor and she has 1 but can get more.
Silent Knight or S/K as later stated..
Part number 7150
My cost is about 45.00 Yow, when I bought the one for me it was 36.00
It is a quality part though, I think still U.S. made.
So there you have it... thats what worked for me.
One thought to keep in mind is that with a buffer board, you could possibly never see your light on if you are violently duning all day!
Slosh and pounding will keep resetting the timer to zero.
My application is very hard street driving and works well here.
For those of you (as myself) who wish to have a low fuel indicator light rather than a gauge, read on.
Here's the goodies you'll need.
A time delay relay and potentiometer are the interesting tidbits.
This photo shows the fuel level float-switch mentioned above... a fuse block, the time-delay-relay, the potentiometer and an led light.
It's important to mention, if you use an led, you will need to add an in-line resister.
If you use incandescent... no problem.
You can have a fixed time delay by using a resister, but the potentiometer was only a buck more and it offers you the ability to adjust the delay.
The arrows indicate which two terminals to use.
I soldered the potentiometer directly to the relay. Remember to install your mounting bolt first. I have the delay set at 30 seconds.
The information on the ultralite photo above is not correct.
The hole size on the tank is actually 7/8".
Liquid Level Switches | Pressure Sensors & Switches | Flow Sensors - Gemsâ„¢ Sensors & Controls
float-switch part # 165900 about $37.00 TODAY
Newark element14 | Electronic Components Distributor
delay-on-contact 12v relay part # 28B693 about 30.00
potentiometer part # 10M5375 about 8.00
So total $$ spent is about $70.00+.
We are using this on our build that you can see here - TheSamba.com :: View topic - Mid-engine street buggy build.
I've received some PMs about how to wire.
It's very simple, and the time-delay comes with clear instructions.
Here's a diagram I quickly drew. (as you can see, I don't know jack about wiring schematics)
Here you go.
Liquid Level Switches | Pressure Sensors & Switches | Flow Sensors - Gemsâ„¢ Sensors & Controls
You'll want part # 165900 for gasoline (.65 min Sp.Gr.)
Drill a hole at the level you would like the light to warn you.
It's self-sealing.
$37.00 each plus shipping.
The guys building ultralight aircraft like using these, as running out of fuel could spoil their day.
CORECTION HOLE FOR SENDER IS 7/8”
I did THIS 5 years ago and its perfect. I kept the cable intact and connected it to a magnet and reed switch.
I then connected it to a timer-board circuit that has a relay output to my idiot light.
The timer board stops the light from blinking me to death when it gets low on gas.
The timer board selected tolerates 30 seconds of reed opening before it trips the relay which is also timed.
Its one of the best home brew things that I have done to my buggy and
is a keeper!
Light comes on when low for about 10 seconds and stays on when in the dangerously low range.
You will want this particular board to make it work cool, even if you use a micro switch instead of the glass reed switch.
If interested I will post where to buy the board and reeds.
THIS was more pertaining to the topic of "no guage"...
I thought I was the only one that thought it was a good, simple idea
but I guess not.
The best ready made board for that application happened to be:
a telephone line monitor control from Silent Knight Co.
Its normally used for monitoring the dial-out voltage of a phone-line for the security industry as a trouble indicator but is ideal for the fuel tank
prossesor card. Has a form-c or normally open or closed relay.
The factory buffer is 30 seconds (non-adjustable but is perfect).
Sloshing gas and accelleration do not effect the reading as it would with a straight switch.
Also from the security industry is the reed switch (no sparks because its in a glass sealed tube) ... very tiny.
Let me know if you need more info and how to wire.
My company can get the S/K board (ideal for this use I found) although an alarm part and maybe wholesale only.... or see Altronix for general timer boards if you are into fabbing it yourself.
As I mentioned to the pm's, I think its the only one that S/K makes in the stand alone format.
2"x2"x6" aluminum box with a cable/wire clamp on the end.
I put everything in the alumonum box, Switch( reed type ) and magnet
on a little home made swing lever that connects to my original 66 float and cable.
I elected to keep the cable because this "box" is now just under my dash and I can tweek the cable length for adjustment.
Microswitches and the like, at the float assembly may be hard to get at if you need adjustment.
Anyway, thats the way I did mine and its rock stable for years.
If there a hang-up with getting the box/board, I can get them.
Do the lo-fuel sensors above have electronics in them and prosess the the reading or what? You may not need a timer board.??????
Whats the scoop on these and what do they give you as far output on contact with gas.
Thats what I meant.. thanks
Mainly I was thinking that there is a "smart sensor" already out there and
no board required.
The SK board works as such for those interested:
When powered, the board looks for 12 volts at two screw terminals.
If it sees 12 volts at the terminals, it remains inactive. (relay form-c)
If it loses the 12 volts, a timer starts for 30 seconds.
Any restoral of the 12volts restarts the timer back to 30 seconds.
When the sloshing gas averages out to 30 plus seconds of open switch the light will just start to come on.... longer and longer until an extremely low tank will keep the light on as there is no reset pulse at this point.
It should work with any switch that can run closed when there is gas.
This again is all transistorized, and current on your elected float switch is nill.
OK, just called my distributor and she has 1 but can get more.
Silent Knight or S/K as later stated..
Part number 7150
My cost is about 45.00 Yow, when I bought the one for me it was 36.00
It is a quality part though, I think still U.S. made.
So there you have it... thats what worked for me.
One thought to keep in mind is that with a buffer board, you could possibly never see your light on if you are violently duning all day!
Slosh and pounding will keep resetting the timer to zero.
My application is very hard street driving and works well here.
For those of you (as myself) who wish to have a low fuel indicator light rather than a gauge, read on.
Here's the goodies you'll need.
A time delay relay and potentiometer are the interesting tidbits.
This photo shows the fuel level float-switch mentioned above... a fuse block, the time-delay-relay, the potentiometer and an led light.
It's important to mention, if you use an led, you will need to add an in-line resister.
If you use incandescent... no problem.
You can have a fixed time delay by using a resister, but the potentiometer was only a buck more and it offers you the ability to adjust the delay.
The arrows indicate which two terminals to use.
I soldered the potentiometer directly to the relay. Remember to install your mounting bolt first. I have the delay set at 30 seconds.
The information on the ultralite photo above is not correct.
The hole size on the tank is actually 7/8".
Liquid Level Switches | Pressure Sensors & Switches | Flow Sensors - Gemsâ„¢ Sensors & Controls
float-switch part # 165900 about $37.00 TODAY
Newark element14 | Electronic Components Distributor
delay-on-contact 12v relay part # 28B693 about 30.00
potentiometer part # 10M5375 about 8.00
So total $$ spent is about $70.00+.
We are using this on our build that you can see here - TheSamba.com :: View topic - Mid-engine street buggy build.
I've received some PMs about how to wire.
It's very simple, and the time-delay comes with clear instructions.
Here's a diagram I quickly drew. (as you can see, I don't know jack about wiring schematics)
